Auxey-Duresses has always been in the shadow of its better-known neighbors, Volnay and Meursault. We like to talk about the “Edges of Burgundy”—places just off the beaten track of famous villages. These Edges provide tremendous value. Auxey-Duresses, quite literally at the edge of one of the most famous white wine villages in the world, may provide the greatest value of all.
Auxey-Duresses, flush up by Meursault, is one of those magic places in Burgundy that grows both great red and white grapes. White is the focus on the Meursault side of the village. Wines made by Auxey’s top growers can rival great Meursault, and we think Lafouge is at the very top of the heap. (D’Auvenay does make some Auxey-Duresses but it’s about $450 per bottle!)
Lafouge’s Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers is right across the dividing line from Meursault’s Meix Chavaux. It is usually a bit softer than Les Hautés, perhaps more Meursault-like. Lafouge’s Auxey-Duresses Les Hautés borders Meursault Les Vireuils. This is zippier, more mineral-driven than the Les Boutonniers. Comparing the two as they age is fun—especially if you do it blind! These 2014s will age brilliantly… if you have patience, restraint, and will power.
In “The View from the Cellar” John Gilman wrote this about Lafouge: “The white wines are very racy and transparent, and offer up outstanding minerality and cut. Stylistically they are very similar to Jean-Marc Roulot’s wines and are well worth discovering.” He has also written that in his opinion, Lafouge provides the very best value in all the Côte d’Or!
In a great white Burgundy vintage like 2014, this is really a no-brainer: