Edges of Burgundy: Santenay

This is part 3 of Edges of Burgundy, a series of posts exploring some of the under-valued villages of Burgundy.  Last week we did St. Aubin.  Now it's Santenay's turn.   Santenay For a while I felt that drinking Santenay was like visiting your family of wild cousins and marveling that they are related to you.  Was that really Pinot Noir....or was that a Cotes du Rhone I was drinking?  It seemed that there was simply too much coarseness and clunkiness for the wines to be from the Cote d'Or.   But wine-making has really improved in Santenay over the last decade or so, and more and more I've been finding bottles of wine that truly satisfy my cravings for great Burgundy.  Pay ... Read More »

Faury VV, Graillot and what I didn’t get about the New Yorker’s Blind tasting piece

Maria Konnikova has a great New Yorker article about blind tasting.  But there's a mystery at the heart of her story that I'm waiting for someone to explain to me. Konnikova goes to an experimental blind tasting organized by Daniel Salzman, a Columbia University neuroscientist.  Salzman gives his tasters two wines and asks them to grade them (out of 10) and identify the more expensive wine.  And he tells the tasters a story about the wines: one bottle, the more expensive one, is an artisanal wine made organically by a father-son team.  The other wine is "more commercial." This puts Konnikova -- and most of the tasters, presumably -- in the position of worrying that she may pick the ... Read More »

Edges of Burgundy: Saint-Aubin

Today we start exploring the Edges of Burgundy with Saint-Aubin.  This is a series that focuses on villages of Burgundy that are less heralded despite producing world class and ageworthy Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. You can read the introductory blog post here.   Saint-Aubin is all about Chardonnay Pinot Noir from Saint-Aubin is OK.  Don't get me wrong.  I mean, if suddenly New York State starting producing Pinot as good as the finer reds that you can get from Saint-Aubin, it would be hugely celebrated and pronouncements would be made declaring New York State to be the new Burgundy (with very high prices of course).  But really, the red wines from the village are on the simple ... Read More »

Edges of Burgundy, Part 1

Your guide to Burgundy's Unknown Gems: Great wines and rare values Is Burgundy going the way of Bordeaux?  Prices certainly are going up every year.  The top producers’ wines are now out of reach for the vast majority of us.  In famous villages (Vosne Romanée, Chambolle Musigny), even relatively unknown producers don't come cheap. And in some ways, the situation is already worse than Bordeaux.  If you're willing to pay the price, there's always another case of, say, Leoville Las Cases that you can buy and put in your cellar.  They just make so much wine in Bordeaux. But not so in Burgundy, where bottles of top wines are now often allocated just two or three per customer... ... Read More »