Next a 2016 Savigny les Beaune “Les Lavieres”: Brambly, kind of rustic, good fruit, extract and body. I told him I liked it, a good honest wine. Pascal said, “Thanks but I wish I had more. Look – that’s it. Two barrels in 2016. In 2015 I had 15-16 barrels.”
Then 2016 Morey Saint Denis “En la Rue de Vergy”: Black fruit, super aromatic, very pretty. Pascal has a good feel for Morey Saint Denis.
2016 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru “Clos des Ormes”: Very dark fruit, brooding, deep, big rich and powerful. Long finish. A super wine.
2016 Beaune 1er Cru “Tuvilans”: Rich ripe red fruits and very fine ripe tannins – very good indeed.
2016 Volnay “Fremiets”: Big rich red fruits, very fine and supple tannin, good long finish.
2016 Vosne Romanée “Champ Perdrix”: From the top of the hill, this was a special cuvee Pascal made with no sulfur added. Dark fruit like blackberries and plums this wine was very pure and rich with explosive fruit, it really jumped out of the glass. Nice lingering finish.
2016 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru “Les Perrieres”: I wrote “Strong, powerful, minty + forest floor – very Nuits”
2016 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru “Richemone”: Powerful black fruits, big and rich and Vosne-like
2016 Pommard 1er Cru “Rugiens”: Powerful, big rich black-fruited, tannic and a very long finish. Pascal knows a thing or two about Pommard.
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cherbaudes”: Lovely fruit bomb, very dark cherry, very drinkable, wanted to take it to dinner.
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Lavaux Saint Jacques”: Also very pretty, seductive with dark cherry fruit
2016 Échezeaux: A curious spice and fruit laden nose that was like cinnamon and quince paste – really unique and fabulous, truly Grand Cru complexity!
2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Combe Brulee”: Black fruit and five spice, allspice – pure and ripe with a very long finish.
2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Petits Monts”: Very powerful, tannic, rich and long
2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Suchots”: Inky, dark black fruit, very fine subtle silky ripe tannins, very long finish, really a showstopper. 100% whole cluster fermented because Pascal says that this parcel of Suchhots has the “finest Pinot Fin he has ever seen with very thin stems, tiny berries”.
2016 Clos Saint Denis: Ethereal and fine – super juice – a wine of great finesse.
2016 Clos de la Roche: Very very good and powerful, a show stopper full of black fruit, tannin, complexity, everything.
2016 Charmes-Chambertin: A very tangy wine with great salinity and great power.
2016 Mazoyeres-Chambertin: Rich boysenberry fruit with great salinity on the very long finish.
2016 Mazis-Chambertin: Big rich black fruit with tangy oyster shell salinity on the finish.
2016 Musigny: A very pale color, almost like a dark rose wine, Pascal did not crush the berries, he destemmed by hand and fermented them intact in a barrel and let them pop. A very delicate yet powerful wine of a filigreed complexity that unfold and unfolds into a very lingering finish. Simply magnificent. He made Musigny at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then for a while he wondered if he would ever be able to make Musigny again. Now he can and he is delighted.
Marc de Bourgogne: I wasn’t about to start drinking Marc before dinner but I did taste it and spat it out. He has been making a barrel of Marc every year for seven years and just ages them. He is thinking about blending the barrels before he sell it as a multi-vintage blend.
After the tasting we drove to Beaune for dinner at Ma Cuisine. This restaurant has been the place to go for the international wine trade when in Beaune. You never know who you might see in there. Owner Pierre Escoffier greeted us and it seemed like Pascal knew half of the diners. Or more. A number of people got up from their tables to kiss him on both cheeks, slap on the back, how are you, great to see you, you must try this wine, etc. There was a table hosted by a Beverly Hills based importer with a group of sommeliers from Los Angeles and San Francisco, their table was littered with great bottles, Comte Lafon, Chave Hermitage white, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair Vosne Romanee, Selosse Rose, a bottle of Yquem and just for good measure a fine old bottle of Vin Jaune. This group was not messing around.
We sat down, perused the list and I was surprised that Pascal chose a 2015 Pibarnon Bandol – he loves this wine and had not had the new vintage. We ordered a dozen escargot and I got the pigeon, an old favorite. At the table next to us were three 20 something year old sommeliers from Montreal, two young women and one young man talking in that unmistakable Quebecois accent. They could barely contain their excitement at being seated right next to us. Are you Pascal Marchand? Can we take a picture with you? Really?! I was roped into photographer duties with all three cell phones. Three thrilled millennial Montreal sommeliers were now home town heroes on Instagram. After dessert, coffee and Calvados it was time to call it a night. Six hours later Pascal was up and back at it.
Join us this Wednesday, May 16th, from 5:30 until 7:30, as we welcome winemaker Thomas Dinel, of Maison Marchand-Tawse. There will be wine! You can meet a true movie star! Ask him your questions and he’ll give you some answers.