2013—a very good Brunello vintage
Don’t yawn! I know vintage hype can be tiring, especially in Italy, where climate change has (for now, at least)—really been a friend to wine. The message can get repetitive. For instance, in Montalcino three of the past four vintages (2010-2013) have been all-stars (and early tastes of 2014s have even revealed some gems in that tricky year).
But having too many good vintages in quick succession is a good problem to have, right? So I’m not going to shirk from asking you to pay attention to the 2013 Brunelli, as it’s what we call a “classic” vintage with especially strong communication of terroir. The wines are lifted, light-filled things of beauty. One of the best examples I’ve tasted so far is from Collemattoni, an organic estate with holdings in Sant’ Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate.
Like the same year in Piedmont, from which we have already seen many great releases, Tuscany enjoyed a longer, cooler growing season with more sun hours than in the preceding couple of vintages. Timing of the harvest was trickier in Tuscany, though, with a threat of September rain. Producers who picked too early or too late ended up with wines that don’t show the full potential of the vintage.
But those estates that got it right, Collemattoni among them, turned out wines of exceptional elegance and balance.
Why Collemattoni? A cut above
Seriously under-known relative to its quality, Collemattoni is a very traditional estate, using a 20- to 25-day maceration and aging the Brunello in large Slavonian casks for at least 30 months. Their most modern twist is environmentalism: not only are they certified organic, but 80% of the winery’s electricity comes from solar panels and biomass processing.
Meanwhile the pricing is definitely a throw-back to past years. And if you take advantage of our Blog Special, you’ll have some delicious wine for now and (if you can cellar it) many years of future enjoyment. Through Sunday 6/24, just use the code – COLLEMATTONI13 – once you add the wine to your cart.
Collemattoni, Brunello di Montalcino, 2013 $49.99 $45.99 on 3 or more bottles.
There’s nothing better of a summer evening than a big steak off the grill (or out of the cast iron skillet) with a bottle of Brunello. This Collemattoni is great now, but only going to get better with time.
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