The Story of the Chick’n Shack sandwich and the Three Cru Beaujolais

Beaujolais is perhaps the most versatile wine to accompany almost all foods. Probably not good with a caramel stout brownie sundae float, but I have not tried it. However, in Lyon, a town that celebrates food, Beaujolais is served with virtually everything. A salad with warm chicken livers in a mustard vinaigrette? Check. A spinach salad with lardons and warm vinaigrette made with the bacon fat. Cool bottle of Beaujolais--yes! Salmon? Very nice with Fleurie. A roast chicken and Regnie? Yes please. Steak and fries: Morgon. Blood sausage and Chiroubles? Why not. Let's say you want Thai food and it is kind of spicy. The fruit in 100% Gamay Beaujolais and Cru Beaujolais can handle the heat ... Read More »

Drinking Chateau Simone at The Simone: A Classic

In a town like New York, where the pace is cutthroat and the definition of "hip" is updated more frequently than a teenager's Facebook status, staying on board with all the current trends can seem an insurmountable task. In fashion, the arts, and especially in food and wine, what's popular one day is suddenly passe the next, and in this whirlwind of a city, between all the passing fads and hectic schedules, I often find myself craving a simpler, more timeless sort of experience. We seek out "unmanipulated" wines, devoid of gimmick, that are pure and honest expressions of their terroir, and that taste delicious. Why shouldn't we seek out this type of authenticity and quality in life? Just as ... Read More »

Muscadet: as at home with the yardbird as with the oyster

Let’s talk about fried chicken.  It is a perfect food (when made correctly, of course): the tender, moist interior and the crunchy, salty, skin do that magic contrast act that gets our tastebuds out of bed in the morning.  And cooking the bird in breaded pieces rather than whole improves upon nature with respect to the crunch/meat ratio. You can add a third axis to this contrast by introducing Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Clos des Briords to the mix.  The lean, mineral-laden core (it is from 80-year-old vines planted in schist) offsets the fried richness, while the wine’s saline component cozies up to the food’s own saltiness.  Clos des Briords is conveniently also appropriate for ... Read More »

When 2 + 2 = 5: A new pairing for the ages

There are a lot of classic pairings out there, unassailable marriages of solid and liquid that result in something greater than the sum of their parts.  Oysters and Muscadet, foie gras and Sauternes, goat cheese and Sancerre, pasta with tomato sauce and Chianti, caviar and Champagne are all twosomes that have stood the test of time and become enshrined in our culture.  Well, I have a new one to add to the list: tacos and Savennieres! When pairing wine with food, there are two main strategies to employ: match the dish in weight, acidity, fattiness, flavors, etc. - or contrast with it.  I think that perhaps the magic of Savennieres with tacos derives from employing both of these principles ... Read More »