Milon’s Cuvée Caprice
The “great” viticultural regions are most famous for their grandest wines; they usually take decades to mature and also cost a fortune. But these same venerated regions also produce fresh and delicious wines that can be drunk young- the kind locals choose for everyday expression of their local terroirs and traditions.
Such pleasures are key to the enjoyment and understanding of wine itself. We drink Piedmontese Dolcetto, and Burgundy’s Bourgogne Rouge and Passetoutgrain. Yet for some reason, when it comes to Bordeaux we focus almost exclusively on the grand vins of the most famous châteaux; these giants need decades of cellar time before they are ready to drink.
2018 is the year to look beyond those big names. Bordeaux’s latest vintage, 2016, makes it so easy. It was a great year. Naturally, the grand châteaux made extraordinary wines. But so did the smaller domaines, many of which producing wine in a wonderfully pretty and immediate style – perfect for straight-up drinking!
Château Milon’s St.-Émilion, “Cuvée Caprice,” is one such wine. Milon isn’t what we think of when we imagine a St.-Émilion château. It’s a Burgundy-sized estate that farms ecologically, ferments in traditional cement vats, and ages with very little new oak. Their wines are honest and pure, bursting with dark, linear Merlot that clearly articulates St.-Émilion’s varied terroirs. See my tasting notes below:
Rich, firm-yet-energetic dark fruit with a vein of chalky minerality running throughout. The structure is perfect harmony with the mid-palate, and the wine is immediately delicious. Classical, terroir-driven Bordeaux with uncommon elegance for this price point. Pair with hanger steak.