But sometimes the wine will take you on a trip through time. There are a few estates that haven’t changed for decades. But not many—López de Heredia comes to mind, and Lafarge in Volnay. When you taste their wines, you experience something ancient and beautiful. Time travel.
In the case of the Merkelbachs, that time is the 1950s. Nothing has changed since then: for all those decades the same two brothers have made wines from the same terroirs, over and over again, using the same ancient methods on their beautiful, old, ungrafted vines. They started young and are both around 80 years old today.
Like López and Lafarge, the wines are extraordinarily good. They have to be for the project to survive so long, working this way.
We say nearly timeless because, of course, the wines also reflect their vintage. And where 2015 is concerned, we don’t have to tell you how good a thing that is.
We are so happy to have two of their Auslesen, both excellent, and quite different one from another:
Merkelbach, Riesling Auslese Ürziger Würzgarten “Urglück”#9 , 2015
This is an intensely beautiful example of fruity Mosel Riesling, oozing with passionfruit and peach, but also a dizzying array of spices, smoke, and fresh herbs. Really long, elegant finish that is simply astounding for the price.
Merkelbach, Riesling Auslese Kinheimer Rosenberg #5, 2015
While the Urgluck puts its fruity foot forward, the Rosenberg is all about rocks and minerals, with a good dollop of flowers and peaches balancing things out. Again, the price is pretty crazy considering the obvious quality of this wine.