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Fresh Release from Cult Star: Thibaud Bourdignon Rose de Loire 2017
Thibaud Boudignon has gone through the three stages of small-producer cultdom. First, there were the tweets and instagram posts. Maybe a foreign blog or small magazine article. The allusions to his wine were rapturous, but enigmatic and mostly from overseas. Then came phase two: devoted wine folk "suit-cased" bottles home to America to share with friends. Word spread. The hunt was on. Finally, phase three: an importer (Sacred Thirst) started bringing small amounts straight to California. Thanks guys! Boudignon really exploded as a Chenin producer. But he has 40ish-year-old Cabernet Franc vines that he treats much like the Chenin (except that he blocks malos to preserve freshness). With little skin contact, the red grapes make something pink, fresh, and delicious. Last year, it was one of our very favorite rosés. Fresh and mineral in a way that only the Loire can give, and gently fruity. Unfortunately, we only got a few cases so couldn't spread around the pleasure. But this year we got a bit more, please indulge! *As a treat for our loyal blog readers, use code CULTROSE for a special 15% off when buying two or more bottles. Expires this Sunday 5/27/18. Cheers, Your Friends at Flatiron Wines Don't want to miss beat? Sign-up for our newsletter already! As loyal subscribers already know, the newsletter is not only the best place to get first crack at your favorite, hard-to-find wines at special discounts but it's also where we go in great depth about the producers, vintages, regions and trends in the world of fine wine. We send it once a week on Wednesday, unless, you elect to receive more. You can do so by using the form below or, here, if our site's sophisticated technology isn't functioning as described. ;)
This week's tastings in NYC!
Meet the Winemaker: Thomas Dinel of Marchand-Tawse Wednesday, May 16th, 5:30-7:30pm The holdings of Marchand-Tawse are numerous and widespread -- they source grapes from over a dozen Grand Cru vineyards. Pascal Marchand may be the face of the brand, but it wouldn’t be possible without his winemakers, including our guest for the evening, Thomas Dinel. Thomas has worked for Domaine Dujac in the past, and his is a dynamic and exciting style of winemaking. We are very excited to show a variety of wines from a few different years, including the excellent 2015 vintage. Join us tonight, Wednesday the 16th, to taste some classic, yet intriguing Burgundy wines. Marchand Tawse, Bourgogne Pinot Noir "47 N", 2015 -- $29.99 Marchand-Tawse, Cote de Nuits-Villages, 2015 -- $31.99 Marchand-Tawse, Beaune 1er Cru “Clos du Roi”, 2014 -- $39.99 Marchand-Tawse, Nuits-Saint-Georges, 2015 -- $48.99 Great Wines of Bordeaux Thursday, May 17th, 5-8pm In many ways, Bordeaux winemakers could be stuck in their ways, as you might expect in a place where wine has been made for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. However, it’s a region we are particularly excited about, here in the shop -- Bordeaux is constantly evolving and updating, and the wines can be anything from easy, sippable and juicy reds and whites, to ageable, classic Old World wines. This Thursday, we have a representative from the Bordeaux Wine Council here to pour an assortment of wine, and talk to you about everything from the grapes, to the soil to the major (and we mean major) players in the area. Chateau Chatelier, Bordeaux Superieur Rouge, 2015 -- $13.99 Chateau La Grolet, Cotes de Bourg, 2016 -- $17.99 Chateau Milon, Saint-Emilion "Cuvee Caprice", 2016 -- $19.99 Les Pelerins de Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estephe, 2010 -- $35.99 Chateau Sainte-Marie, Bordeaux Blanc Vieilles Vignes, 2017 -- $14.99 Chateau Carbonnieux, Pessac-Leognan Blanc "La Croix de Carbonnieux", 2014 -- $27.99 Meet the Winemaker: Jean-Baptiste Souillard Friday, May 18th, 5-7pm The Souillard family has had roots in the Northern Rhone for generations, and Jean-Baptiste is slowly transitioning the homestead farm into a winery, where he is producing incredible vin-de-garde Syrah, in such highly regarded locales as Cornas, Cote-Rotie and St. Joseph. These wines are serious and complex, belying Jean-Baptiste’s status as a first generation winemaker. But there is still great pleasure in the power, especially in a very drinkable vintage like 2016. Stop by, meet this industrious young winemaker, and try a few of his wines. Royal Wedding Frenzy with English Sparkling Wine Saturday, May 19th, 2-4pm In case you hadn’t heard, there is a little event going on this weekend -- the nuptials of Prince Harry, currently 6th in line to the British throne, and Meghan Markle, a charming American actress. While we can’t make it to the ceremony, we’re celebrating in absentia with some English sparkling wine. Yes, you read correctly -- English sparkling wine! The south of England has and almost identical soil and climate to Champagne, and they’re becoming more and more adept at growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to full ripeness and finesse. We are very happy to be pouring three English fizzy wines from Chapel Hill, a truly world-class winery, to toast the newlyweds. Chapel Down, Brut Vintage Reserve, NV -- $44.99 Chapel Down, Three Graces, 2010 -- $45.99 Chapel Down, Rose Brut Vintage Reserve, NV -- $49.99 As always, newsletter subscribers can take 15% tasting wines!
2016 Burgundy Report from Marchand-Tawse
A Special Report from John Beaver Truax In March I had the good fortune to return to Burgundy and attend the Hospices de Nuits auction and a bi-annual event for the international wine trade, the "Grand Jours de Bourgogne". This is a five day event that covers the wines of Burgundy from Macon all the way up to Chablis. It is a lot of work and a lot of fun. I really look forward to going every two years. I stayed for an extra week and visited some new producers and revisited a lot of old friends - like the ebullient and dynamic Pascal Marchand, a charismatic Canadian who moved from Montréal to Burgundy in 1983, worked harvest for Bruno Clair. He worked so hard that Bruno invited him to stay in a paid position. He was there for a year and the became the winemaker at Comte Armand, owner of the monopole Pommard 1er Cru 'Clos des Epeneaux" for many years. Then he had the opportunity to build a Domaine from scratch, Domaine de la Vougeraie from 1999 through 2005. Pascal has a negociant label Marchand/Tawse and Domaine Tawse. They bought Domaine Maume in Gevrey Chambertin and have folded that into their vast portfolio of Burgundy vineyards. We had a great tasting at his Nuits Saint Georges cuverie, a sprawling facility with miles of underground cellars beneath the streets of Nuits Saint Georges. Parts of it are like being in a bomb shelter, it is an unbelievably massive network of tunnels that seem to go on forever. Pascal is an old friend and he is a fireball, his energy and enthusiasm are infectious. You spend a few hours with him and get really keyed up, his is an infectious and contagious excitement. He had just returned from the Montreal Film Festival and the premiere of "Grand Cru" a documentary about the very difficult 2016 Burgundy harvest starring - Pascal Marchand! We started with a 2016 Chambolle Musigny Villages, it had a perfumed nose, nice body on the mid palate and an astringent finish. A nice wine. Next a 2016 Savigny les Beaune "Les Lavieres": Brambly, kind of rustic, good fruit, extract and body. I told him I liked it, a good honest wine. Pascal said, "Thanks but I wish I had more. Look - that's it. Two barrels in 2016. In 2015 I had 15-16 barrels." Then 2016 Morey Saint Denis "En la Rue de Vergy": Black fruit, super aromatic, very pretty. Pascal has a good feel for Morey Saint Denis. 2016 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru "Clos des Ormes": Very dark fruit, brooding, deep, big rich and powerful. Long finish. A super wine. 2016 Beaune 1er Cru "Tuvilans": Rich ripe red fruits and very fine ripe tannins - very good indeed. 2016 Volnay "Fremiets": Big rich red fruits, very fine and supple tannin, good long finish. 2016 Vosne Romanée "Champ Perdrix": From the top of the hill, this was a special cuvee Pascal made with no sulfur added. Dark fruit like blackberries and plums this wine was very pure and rich with explosive fruit, it really jumped out of the glass. Nice lingering finish. 2016 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru "Les Perrieres": I wrote "Strong, powerful, minty + forest floor - very Nuits" 2016 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru "Richemone": Powerful black fruits, big and rich and Vosne-like 2016 Pommard 1er Cru "Rugiens": Powerful, big rich black-fruited, tannic and a very long finish. Pascal knows a thing or two about Pommard. 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Cherbaudes": Lovely fruit bomb, very dark cherry, very drinkable, wanted to take it to dinner. 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Lavaux Saint Jacques": Also very pretty, seductive with dark cherry fruit 2016 Échezeaux: A curious spice and fruit laden nose that was like cinnamon and quince paste - really unique and fabulous, truly Grand Cru complexity! 2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru "Combe Brulee": Black fruit and five spice, allspice - pure and ripe with a very long finish. 2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru "Petits Monts": Very powerful, tannic, rich and long 2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru "Suchots": Inky, dark black fruit, very fine subtle silky ripe tannins, very long finish, really a showstopper. 100% whole cluster fermented because Pascal says that this parcel of Suchhots has the "finest Pinot Fin he has ever seen with very thin stems, tiny berries". 2016 Clos Saint Denis: Ethereal and fine - super juice - a wine of great finesse. 2016 Clos de la Roche: Very very good and powerful, a show stopper full of black fruit, tannin, complexity, everything. 2016 Charmes-Chambertin: A very tangy wine with great salinity and great power. 2016 Mazoyeres-Chambertin: Rich boysenberry fruit with great salinity on the very long finish. 2016 Mazis-Chambertin: Big rich black fruit with tangy oyster shell salinity on the finish. 2016 Musigny: A very pale color, almost like a dark rose wine, Pascal did not crush the berries, he destemmed by hand and fermented them intact in a barrel and let them pop. A very delicate yet powerful wine of a filigreed complexity that unfold and unfolds into a very lingering finish. Simply magnificent. He made Musigny at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then for a while he wondered if he would ever be able to make Musigny again. Now he can and he is delighted. Marc de Bourgogne: I wasn't about to start drinking Marc before dinner but I did taste it and spat it out. He has been making a barrel of Marc every year for seven years and just ages them. He is thinking about blending the barrels before he sell it as a multi-vintage blend. After the tasting we drove to Beaune for dinner at Ma Cuisine. This restaurant has been the place to go for the international wine trade when in Beaune. You never know who you might see in there. Owner Pierre Escoffier greeted us and it seemed like Pascal knew half of the diners. Or more. A number of people got up from their tables to kiss him on both cheeks, slap on the back, how are you, great to see you, you must try this wine, etc. There was a table hosted by a Beverly Hills based importer with a group of sommeliers from Los Angeles and San Francisco, their table was littered with great bottles, Comte Lafon, Chave Hermitage white, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair Vosne Romanee, Selosse Rose, a bottle of Yquem and just for good measure a fine old bottle of Vin Jaune. This group was not messing around. We sat down, perused the list and I was surprised that Pascal chose a 2015 Pibarnon Bandol - he loves this wine and had not had the new vintage. We ordered a dozen escargot and I got the pigeon, an old favorite. At the table next to us were three 20 something year old sommeliers from Montreal, two young women and one young man talking in that unmistakable Quebecois accent. They could barely contain their excitement at being seated right next to us. Are you Pascal Marchand? Can we take a picture with you? Really?! I was roped into photographer duties with all three cell phones. Three thrilled millennial Montreal sommeliers were now home town heroes on Instagram. After dessert, coffee and Calvados it was time to call it a night. Six hours later Pascal was up and back at it. Join us this Wednesday, May 16th, from 5:30 until 7:30, as we welcome winemaker Thomas Dinel, of Maison Marchand-Tawse. There will be wine! You can meet a true movie star! Ask him your questions and he'll give you some answers.
2013 Brovia Barolo: The best straight Barolo you are likely to come across
Our Reasonable Cellar posts are so often about things that are slightly off. An off region. An off grape. An off vintage. But today nothing is off at all. The inspiration was Brovia Barolo 2008. In one of my better moves, I tucked a way an entire case of the wine when we got it maybe five or six years ago. About a couple of years ago I cracked my first bottle. Now I love mature Barolo most of all, but I’m pretty OK with young Barolo too. I’m pretty happy with fresh, tannic reds, especially with grilled beef. But not when they’re shut down! 2008 Brovia Barolo: A 'decent' vintage now at ten years is singing That first bottle of 2008 that I opened, maybe 18 months ago, was totally shut down. We opened it and it didn’t taste of much at all. We decanted it and then it just tasted of tannins. We decanted it some more and still more tannins. It hung out in my fridge for a day or two and then just tasted…unfresh. That’s what wine is like when it’s shut down. But around six months ago it was not shut down. It wasn’t quite firing on all cylinders, but it was a very enjoyable bottle of Barolo. So a month ago I opened up another bottle. Yum! And another bottle last week. Victory! That was a singing bottle of Barolo, with just the right combo of fresh cherry Nebbiolo fruit and that tar-rose-porcini heaven that you want from mature Barolo. It turns out that the “normale” Barolo from Brovia — in a decent but not epic vintage — is ready to drink at around age 10. Now, I write all this not to brag about a smart move I made five years ago, but to help us all plan for the future. It so happens that a very awesome vintage of Brovia’s “normale” is on the market today. Surprisingly, it hasn’t moved from the Reasonable Cellar budget range that it occupied back when the 2008 was released. 2013 Brovia Barolo: One of the best straight Barolos you'll come across It’s Barolo, not an “off" region at all. It’s 2013, not an off vintage at all, but one of the best two or three so far this century. It’s certainly not an obscure producer. It’s not even a wine that’s escaped the attention fo the press. Antonio Galloni give it a monster score and said "This one of the best straight Barolos readers will come across.” Not bad! The wine is certainly shut down today, as a recent drinking confirmed. No matter how much air I gave it the wine just didn’t give back. But that’s OK. Experience has shown me that it will come around in a few years. I’ve put an entire case aside. While I wait, I can enjoy those 2008s! We have plenty of Brovia 2013 in stock in both NY and SF. It’s normally $48.99/bottle in NY and $51.99 in SF but the wine will discount to $42.99 when using the coupon codes, below. Buy Brovia, Barolo, 2013 in New York City. (Use coupon code "BROVIA2013NYC") Buy Brovia, Barolo, 2013 in San Franciso. (Use coupon code "BROVIA2013SF") Don't want to miss beat? Sign-up for our newsletter already! As loyal subscribers already know, the newsletter is not only the best place to get first crack at your favorite, hard-to-find wines at special discounts but it's also where we go in great depth about the producers, vintages, regions and trends in the world of fine wine. We send it once a week on Wednesday, unless, you elect to receive more. You can do so by using the form below or, here, if our site's sophisticated technology isn't functioning as described. ;)
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