Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
The wines are deep, rich, powerful and dramatic...pinnacles in the history of dry German Riesling. -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
This Article Contains |
People |
Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze: Owner, Nicola Libelli: Cellar Master, and Jan Hock: Viticulturist.
Focus |
Dry, Crystalline, Traditionally crafted Rieslings from an incredible collection of Pfalz vineyards
Country |
Germany
Region |
Pflaz
Village |
Wachenheim
Climate |
Cool to Moderate Continental
- Cold winters, hot, medium length, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
- This is the warmest region in Germany with more Mediterranean-like temperatures. You can even find fig and olive trees growing among the vines.
- Winters are usually not as cold as they were historically. Summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem, and autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
- Moderate climate wines are relatively high in acid, with lower than average alcohols, medium to light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors along with ripe fruit notes.
- White grapes are the majority but there are some great light reds, like Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that can also ripen well.
- Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
- Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines
- 2022 is an enigma. It was hot and very dry for most of the growing season, but rain and long cold fall ended up giving us wines that taste more like “classic” cool-climate wines than rich, ripe wines.
Vineyards |
86 hectares in 3 villages. In 1990 they started classifying all of their vineyards in the Burgundian format of Village, 1er Cru (PC) and Grand Cru (GC). They’ve kept these labels even as the VDP has now classified the same sites as Erste and Grosse Lage.
- Kirchenstück: Forst, Erste Gewächs. “The Montrachet of the Pfalz”, surrounded by the other GC vineyards. The only site rated with the top score of 65 by the Bavarian vineyard classification of 1828. This is a southeast slope with basalt rock, limestone scree, red sandstone, dense clay and sand giving it minerality and access to enough water even in the hottest of years. A vineyard known for complexity, elegance, brilliance, unmatched power and expression like nowhere else. Wines need decades in the cellar to unfurl. Their .5 ha was planted in 1985.
- Pechstein: Forst, Erste Gewächs. Southeast facing slope with high proportions of black basalt for a flinty intense minerality mixed with limestone from an ancient coral reef for structure and sandstone for good measure. B-W owns 2.33 hectares with vines planted in 1978.
- Ungeheuer: Forst Erste Gewächse. A basalt laden vineyard, but with complex soil structure including limestone, rubble, sandstone and with dense clay meaning access to water for more nutrition and excellent mineral underpinning to the wines. The south-east slope gives ample sun and being at the foot of the Haardt Mountains, gives cooler airflow and brighter acidity. B-W .9 ha were planted in 1985.
- Jesuitengarten: Forst, Erste Gewächs. The second best vineyard after Kirchenstück. Eastern facing slope with Basalt and limestone mixed, the best of both worlds! Because of replanting in 2015, B-W is not bottling this as a single vineyard GC wine.
- Hohenmogen: Deidesheim GC. From the Mittelhaardt on a warm slope with sandstone and a band of limestone. This gives the wines from here both power and a linear focus. B-W has .9 ha planted in 1979.
- Langenmorgen: Deidesheim, Erste Gewächs. A semicircle of a vineyard surrounded by the Paradiesgarten, next to the cooling forest, with a southeastern slope. The site was first mentioned in 1491 and the name refers to the amount of land a man can work with a horse in a day. Top soil is loam with high limestone content over deep loess, red and white sandstone. A lighter, brighter GG. B-W has .68 ha planted in 1976.
- Kalkofen: Deidesheim, Erste Gewächs. Once a lime kiln and source of limestone bricks, now a warm south facing site with plenty of limestone and marl soils. Wines are super mineral with a Burgundian structure. This is one of my favorite sites in the Pfalz. B-W has .7 ha planted in 1973.
- Gaisböhl (Monopol): Ruppertsberg GC. 7.5 ha planted in 1977, 5.2 are classified as GC. South facing slope at the foot of the Mittelhaardt. Gravel and clay over red sandstone give them an especially powerful elegance that can take time in the bottle to really come to life.
- Reiterpfad: Ruppertsberg, Erste Lage. A very large 86 ha low slope with a southeast exposition. A very warm site due to a sandstone wall surrounding the vineyard. Diverse soils with sand and sandy loam over red sandstone, limestone and loess throughout. Wines tend to be very dense and long lived for an Erste Lage site. B-W has .83 ha planted in 2004.
- Goldbächel: Wachenheim PC. Southern exposure with red and yellow sandstone over a layer of river rocks, which allow the wines greater access to water. A boon in the dry years.
- Rechbächel (Monopol): Wachenheim PC. Very similar to the Goldbächel in soil make up.
- Gerümpel: Wachenheim PC. A unique site in the Pechstein that shares similarities to Pechstein in Forst with lots of black basalt.
- Altenburg: Wachenheim PC. A top site in Wachenheim since the Middle Ages. This east facing (cooler) slope is right by the forest, giving it lots of sunshine in the morning but earlier shading in the afternoon. The wines are brighter and more linear.
- Böhlig: Wachenheim PC. South east facing with red and yellow sandstone, but a high level of limestone as well, which is rare for the village.
- Hohenburg: Ruppertsberg PC. At the foot of the Mittelhaardt with white and red sandstone.
Grape Varieties |
Riesling
- The King of White Grapes.
- High acid, semi aromatic
- A huge variation in style potential from very light and dry, sparkling to the most unctuously sweet wines on the planet.
- Divisive for its high acidity and sugar retaining capabilities
- Perfect in its dynamic nature, ability to transmit the slightest nuance of terroir and being capable of aging for hundreds of years.
Farming |
Biodynamic
- One of the first certified Biodyn along with DRC in France.
- Hand harvested for the PC and GC.
Cellar Work |
Traditional - Natural
- Fermentations are spontaneous and can take as long as they want
- No or little temperature control
- PC & GC Riesling only large oak from 600-3,000L: Stockinger from Austria, Mattern, from Pfalz, and Assmann from Franconia
- They spend 6 months to a year in cask on their fine lees.
- Because of the thick staves and humid cellar they can actually become relatively reductive.
- Sweet and off-dry wines are in a mix of stainless steel and barrel
About the winery |
One of the most historic estates in Germany is making its best wine today. This is thanks to the forward thinking Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze who took over from her father in 1990 and recommitted to making wine at the highest quality.
She undertook the process of ranking all their vineyards into a Burgundy village, then in an effort to preserve the soils for future generations, converted to organics. After being introduced to Biodynamics and Nicholas Joly, they decided they needed to take everything a step further and now all 65 hectares are certified Biodyn as well, a true feat.
It’s often thought that estates of this size are just not capable of making wine at this level, they just can’t put the attention and man hours needed for craftsmanship. It's also difficult to coordinate between a viticulturist and a cellar master, as they often have two sets of goals. But Bettina is blessed with an incredible team, whose enthusiasm for their job and ability to work as a cohesive unit is unmatched in wine.
Nikola Libelli, from Italy works in tandem with Jan Hock whose lives and breaths vineyard work. This magic team imbues itself into the wines, they are serious and yet have a playful energy coursing through them. Bettina for her part trusts, them to try to continuously refine their methods, in and out of the cellar. The results are some of Germany’s greatest wines.
What do the wines taste like?
The majority are dry, complex, structured, and overtly textural. The best are power-houses of sinewy density and mineralic concentration. All possess that inherent steely spike of acidity, a signature of German wines.
The off-dry and sweet wines are also stunning. I only wish they made more of them as this style is not in fashion and the house wants to focus on its terroir expressive dry wines.
These were some of the most enthralling wines I've had this last trip to Germany.
Wines on Offer:
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Estate Blanc, 2022 $21.99 $19.35
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Estate Rouge, 2020 $20.99 $18.47
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Deidesheimer Trocken, 2022 $30.99 $27.27
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Estate Trocken, 2022 $23.99 $21.11
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Estate Trocken, 2022 (1.5L) $54.99 $48.39
From young vines in 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, fresh, zippy, yellow fruit, peaches, sandstone, bitter finish, lots of structure, easy, simple, delicious, great value.
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Forst Trocken, 2022 $41.99 $36.95
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Forst Trocken, 2022 (1.5L) $91.99 $80.95
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Gaisböhl [Monopol] Trocken GC, 2021 $94.99 $83.59
“From up to 44-year-old vines in the estate's 7.55-hectare monopole, the 2021 Gaisböhl G.C. opens with a pure, fresh, intense, slightly reductive, lemon-scented nose of ripe fruit aromas and flinty notes. Saline, fresh and tensioned on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich and and substantial, vital and tensioned Riesling with a dense, saline and savory finish that reveals great aging potential. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 95 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Hohenmorgen Trocken GC, 2021 $129.99 $114.39
“The 2021 Hohenmorgen G.C. offers a clear and pure yet intense and finely reductive nose of crushed stones and concentrated but coolish fruit aromas. Fresh on the palate, this is a pure, persistently saline and finely grippy Hohenmorgen with concentrated but still vivacious Riesling fruit. Very long, vital and saline. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 94 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Hommage à Luise, 2021 $23.99 $21.11
😀30 g/l residual sugar. Light, bright, joyous, fresh peach juice, sunshine, so balanced, lifted and fun. The source of the vineyard changes every year depending on conditions 9.5% abv.
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Kalkofen Trocken GC, 2021 $146.99 $129.35
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Kirchenstück Trocken GC, 2021 $210.00 $184.80
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Langenmorgen Trocken GC, 2021 $123.99 $109.11
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Pechstein Trocken GC, 2021 $170.00 $149.60
“Bürklin's 2021 Pechstein G.C. shows a deep, pure, intense and saline, very complex and elegant bouquet of concentrated tropical fruit aromas intertwined with flinty, iodine and citrus aromas. Pure, very intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, iodine-inflected and stimulatingly saline Pechstein with fine tannins and a long, dense, complex and tensioned finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 96+ pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Reiterpfad Trocken GC, 2021 $104.99 $92.39
“From the In der Hohl plot, Bürklin's 2021 Reiterpfad G.C. exhibits a pure, ripe, concentrated, saline and elegant bouquet of crushed stones and ripe, concentred Riesling fruit. Full-bodied yet pure and fresh on the palate, this is a saline, savory and finely tannic Riesling with a long, intense and still shy but promising finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 93+ pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Ruppertsberg Trocken, 2021 $30.99 $27.27
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Ruppertsberg Trocken, 2021 (1.5L) $59.99 $52.79
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Trocken PC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79
Of the total of 20 hectares of vines in this Ruppertsberg top site, Bürklin holds 4.68 hectares. Located at the foot of the Mittelhaardt on red and white sandstone, the premier cru benefits from favorable microclimatic advantages. The 2021 Ruppertsberger Hoheburg P.C. is intense but also coolish and clear, with cold, gravelly notes intertwined with ripe yellow apple aromas. Full-bodied, intense and textured yet structured by vivacious acidity and phenolic grip, this is a young and untamed dry Riesling with an intense, saline and still biting finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork stopper. Tasted in November 2022. 92+ pts -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Ungeheuer Trocken GC, 2021 $144.99 $127.59
“Bürklin's 2021 Ungeheuer G.C. is clear, deep and intense as well as flinty on the saline and lemony nose that combines richness and intensity with precision and freshness. Pure, saline and very fresh on the palate, this is a full-bodied, dense and savory, enormously tight and even finely tannic Ungeheuer with fine grip and a saline finish with ripe, concentrated fruit. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 96 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheim R Trocken, 2018 $37.99 $33.43
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheim R Trocken, 2018 (1.5L) $64.99 $57.19
Three years in barrel, chunky, ripe, toasty, lower acidity after all these 21s and 22s. Peaches spicy, a little overripe. Made for the first time in 2013, use very little SO2.
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheim Trocken, 2022 $30.99 $27.27
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheim Trocken, 2022 (1.5L) $64.99 $57.19
From five of seven premier crew parcels, all sandstone vineyards with deep roots. Red and yellow fruit, reduction, cool pickle juice, yellow crushed sweet peppers, little under ripe.
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheimer Altenburg Trocken PC, 2021 $69.99 $61.59The first mention of the Altenburg in Wachenheim dates back to the High Middle Age, and this is definitely not the last one. The coolest site of the domaine that holds 1.22 hectares in this eastern slope that is immediately located at the edge of the forest and thus shaded earlier than other crus of the domaine delivered a pure and coolish 2021 Wachenheimer Altenburg P.C. with delicate flinty as well as fruity notes that are fine and integrate the forest flavors. This is fascinating in all its finesse and elegant purity. The palate is round, elegant and lush but bone-dry, savory, saline and citric on the finish. This is a lean and straight but intense and saline Riesling classic from a site whose best age has just started. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork stopper. Tasted in November 2022. 93 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheimer Böhlig Trocken PC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79
“The 2021 Wachenheimer Böhlig P.C. offers a deep, clear, fresh, elegant and intense, complex, lemony, iodine-scented and stony bouquet that is scratching the back of the domaine's grand crus. On the palate, this is a full-bodied and rich yet, at the same time, pure and elegant Riesling with a dense, elegant texture, vibrantly fresh acidity and phenolic structure. The wine is extraordinary and reveals a long, saline and elegant but pure, tight and tensioned finish that replays lemon and saline notes. A fascinating 1er cru! 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork stopper. Tasted in November 2022. 93 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheimer Gerümpel Trocken PC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79
“The 2021 Wachenheimer Gerümpel P.C. is super clear, precise and fresh on the elegant, dense and substantial nose that intertwines ripe bright fruit aromas with the coolish finesse of the sandstone geology of this rather warm site. Pure, saline and tensioned on the palate, this is a dry, grippy and mouth-cleansing yet not lean Riesling that doesn't show the intensity and generosity of 2020 but the tension and purity of 2021. Stay tuned for what is still to come. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork stopper. Tasted in November 2022. 94 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheimer Goldbächel Trocken PC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79
“2021 Wachenheimer Goldbächel P.C. has a fascinatingly deep, pure and flinty bouquet of crushed (basalt) stones and intense fruit aromas, predominantly ripe lemons. Obviously vinified in newer oak, this is a round, lush, elegant and refined yet textured, a bit sweetish and pretty von Winning-like Riesling whose terroir expression is still dominated by oak flavors, especially in the Bürklin context where oaky notes like this don't play an important role like here. This is an excellent wine for sure, but it doesn't taste as if it was from the Bürklin stable—or even a Goldbächen? 12.5% stated alcohol. Diam cork stopper. Tasted in November 2022. 92 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Wachenheimer Rechbächel [Monopol] Trocken PC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79
“The 2021 Wachenheimer Rechbächel P.C. Monopole offers naked terroir features on the complex and coolish nose that comes along pure, fresh, saline and stony, intermingling iodine and gravelly notes with lemon juice and marjoram aromas. Stunningly rich and intense on the palate, this is a full-bodied, dense and even powerful yet not alcoholic Rechbächel with remarkable finesse. The youthful phenolics have still to be integrated, but in five years or so, this should be a thrilling Riesling classic. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork stopper. Tasted in November 2022. 92+ pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate