Producers

“Bright, energetic, and wonderfully finessed the A Mi-Chemin impresses me with its fine overall balance” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Paul Girard

Focus |

The vineyards first, creating a healthy biosphere with animals and plants to grow healthy grapes. Craft beautiful wines from gorgeous fruit, showing the terroir of each place without makeup or adornment.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)  

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Côte dee Blancs

Village |

• Oger, Grand Cru
• Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru
• Vertus, 1er Cru

Vineyards |

12 hectares

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay, 100%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Organic & Biodynamic

• Certified bio in 2023
• Started phase out of herbicides the 2000s
• Herbal teas, essential oils, green manure and eco-pasture, are used

Cellar Work |

Natural-leaning

• Each parcel is pressed separately
• Fermentation with wild yeasts
• Experimenting with different vessels and sizes: barrels, stainless steel, and amphora
• On the full lees to prevent oxidation after 1st fermentation for 10 months
• Minimal sulfur additions, every vessel is tasted many, many times and only dosed if needed
• Malolactic happens naturally or not at all
• Unfined and unfiltered before bottling

About the winery |

Alexandre Chartogne once told our friends at Skurnik that the favorite vintage that he ever produced was 2006. 2006 happened to be his very first, and it came together magically. Beginner’s luck? Or is it the fact that for your first vintage, you’re just running purely on instinct, and if you’re a genius like Alexandre, the results can be fantastic.

Now it’s Alexandre’s friend’s turn. His name is Paul Girard, and he has just released the first vintage of his Champagne under the family label Girard-Bonnet. Whether it’s beginner’s luck or pure instinct, we have no idea. But we do know that the result is incredible.

Girard’s instincts did not come from nowhere. He grew up in the Côte des Blancs, inheriting vineyards from both his father (Les Mesnil), and mother (Oger). He has lived and breathed – and smelled and drunk – Chardonnay from Champagne all his life.

He follows somewhat in the style of Chartogne, with a mix of classicism and the most rigorous practices of Grower producers today (organic farming, minimal SO2 additions, etc.). 

We don’t know what people will be saying about future vintages from Paul Girard, but we strongly suspect that the success of this wine goes far beyond beginner’s luck.

What do the wines taste like?

The resulting style is clean and taut, but vibrant in a way that reflects great farming and terroir. There is an intensity and precision here that is already plainly visible, but that will only become more apparent as bottles develop over the next few years or so.

Wines on Offer |

Girard-Bonnet, Champagne A mi Chemin Blancs de Blanc Extra Brut, NV $49.99 $43.99
“The NV Extra-Brut Blanc des Blancs ‘A Mi-Chemin’ is fabulous. Bright, energetic and wonderfully finessed, the A Mi-Chemin impresses with its fine overall balance. Crushed rocks, spice, dried flowers, herbs and citrus oil infuse the A Mi-Chemin with tons of nuance as well as complexity. I admire the transparent energy and precision here. Best of all, this should be a terrific value.” – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

“Readers who enjoy taut, focused Blanc de Blancs will find much to admire….Best of all, many wines in this lineup offer superb value too…”

People |

Currently run by Olivier and Didier Gimonnet, who have carried on the legacy of their father Michel and grandfather Pierre.

(1987 from left to right: Didier, Michel, Pierre and Olivier)

Focus |

Laser beams of acidity, lemon head vibrancy, chalky mineral texture, often from old to very-old vines.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Côte des Blancs

Village |

• Cuis, 1er Cru
• Oiry, Grand Cru
• Cramant, Grand Cru
• Chouilly, Grand Cru
• Oger, Grand Cru
• Vertus, 1er Cru
• Maureil-sur-Aÿ, 1er Cru
• Aÿ, Grand Cru

Vineyards |

29.4 hectares

• They cherish old vines
• 70% are over 30 years old
• 40% are over 40 years old
• Montaigu, in Chouilly, considered the best vineyard of the village. Their plot was planted in 1951
• Le Fond du Bateau, in Cramant, a lieu-dit planted in 1911
• Buisson, in Cramant, a lieu-dit planted in 1913
• Terres de Noël, in Oger, a lieu-dit used in the vintage Oger bottling
• Brulis, in Oger, a lieu-dit used in the vintage Oger bottling
• Champs Nèrons, in Oger, a lieu-dit used in the vintage Oger bottling
• Fondy, in Oger, a lieu-dit used in the vintage Oger bottling

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay, 99%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• Pinot Noir, 1%
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

Farming |

Sustainable, but Pragmatic

• Minimal herbicides, many plots are grassed or worked by hand to control weeds
• Almost no fertilization
• Avoid pesticides with use of pheromone disruptors
• Keep synthetic fungicides to a minimum and only when needed
• Encourage biodiversity by maintaining a healthy ecosystem
• There is no dogma, just questioning of every step

Cellar Work |

• Single parcel pressing and vinification
• Natural cold settling for 24 hours
• Stainless steel fermentation, within 36 hours of grapes being picked
• Malolactic fermentation is allowed to happen
• Aging on fine lees with no battonage
• Non-vintage wines are based on at least 5 vintages
• Cuvée Gastronome is made with less yeast adding during the prise de mousse, for a lower atmospheric pressure of 2.5-3 bars (rather than the normal 5-6), and a creamier, softer mouthfeel

About the winery |

Pierre Gimonnet, a top Grower in the Côte des Blancs, no surprise as they've been growing grapes there since 1750. Like several of the established growers, they started bottling wines after WWI, when grape prices dropped and it was no longer feasible to sell to the big houses.

Michel Gimonnet, father of Olivier and Didier, the current managers, was responsible for raising the quality of winemaking. What today seems commonplace: single parcel vinification, use of stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness, and a desire to express his terroir, were revolutionary in the 1950s.

Michel also helped to found Les Club Trésors (The Special Club) back in the early 1970s. Nearly 50 years later, the Gimonnet family is still one of their benchmark producers. 

These wines embody everything we love about Champagne from the Côte des Blancs, especially Cramant, often capable of making the sub-regions' most complex wines. Many of the wines are long-lived as demonstrated by many 20+ year old wines we've been lucky to taste.

What do the wines taste like?

The Gimonnet style is luxurious, but still quite nervy and exciting. There is toasty brioche, sure, but also soaring acidity and lovely, lemon yellow fruit. 

Wines on Offer |

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Extra Brut, NV $54.99 $48.39
"A crowd-pleasing Champagne for the fine balance and accessibility. A fresh spine of acidity is enmeshed in the round and creamy profile of poached apricot, grated ginger and blanched almond. Clean-cut, with a tang of salty mineral on the lasting finish. Disgorged December 2019. Drink now through 2023. 91 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Sélection Belles Années Brut, NV $54.99 $48.39
"Fresh and floral, this finely balanced version offers a delicate mesh of ripe Honeycrisp apple, pickled ginger, blood orange sorbet and chalk set on a fine mousse. Disgorged February 2022. Drink now. 175 cases imported. 90 pts" Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV $64.99 $57.19
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV (375ml) $38.99 $34.31
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV (1.5L) $159.99 $140.79
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV (3L) $400.00 $352.00
"Graceful and minerally, this bright Champagne dances across the palate, with a chalky underpinning, refreshing acidity and well-meshed flavors of ripe pear, almond skin, biscuit, preserved lemon and white blossoms. Disgorged April 2023. Drink now. 1,250 cases imported. 92 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Cuvée Paradoxe Brut, 2019 $71.99 $63.35

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Spécial Club Cramant Grand Cru Brut, 2016 $71.99 $63.35

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Cuvée Gastronome Brut, 2018 $74.99 $65.99
"A fresh, focused Champagne, with smoke and oyster shell notes serving as a minerally overtone for the fine, lively bead and flavors of nectarine, salted almond, white blossoms and Meyer lemon peel. Disgorged September 2022. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases imported. 91 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Rosé de Blancs Brut, NV $74.99 $65.99
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Rosé de Blancs Brut, NV (1.5L) $169.99 $149.59
"Fresh and focused, this balanced rosé Champagne offers crisp texture and flavors of nectarine and white cherry fruit, blanched almond and delicate hints of white blossoms and fresh herbs. Minerally, salt-tinged finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged November 2021. Drink now. 1,750 cases imported. 91 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Oger Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV $79.99 $70.39
"A rich and creamy Champagne defined by lively acidity, with anise, pastry cream and salted almond notes, and fruit flavors of baked apricot and lemon curd. Minerally finish. Disgorged December 2019. Drink now through 2023. 90 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Cuvée Fleuron Brut, 2017 $82.99 $73.03
"Racy and linear, with a fine, lively mousse and a minerally overtone of smoke and saline layered with creamed pear, lemon curd and poached apricot. A subtle underpinning of almond paste and pastry cream emerges to enrich the finish. Disgorged October 2021. Best after 2023. 150 cases imported. 92 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Cuvée Oenophile Extra Brut, 2018 $92.99 $81.83

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Spécial Club Cuis 1er Cru Brut, 2018 $123.99 $109.11

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Spécial Club Brut, 2016 $129.99 $114.39

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Spécial Club Chouilly Grand Cru Brut, 2016 $154.99 $136.39

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Spécial Club Oger Grand Cru Brut, 2016 $154.99 $136.39

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Millésime de Collection Brut, 2009 (1.5L) $270.00 $237.60

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne Millésime de Collection Brut, 2014 (1.5L) $270.00 $237.60

“Laurent Champs makes some of the classiest wines in all of Champagne. Nuance, polish and sophistication are all signatures readers will find here. No matter the vintage or wine, there is a sense of effortless grace at Vilmart that I always admire.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Laurent Champs

Focus |

Refinement, elegance, perfection. The fine line we all want to walk between hedonism and austerity.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Montagne de Reims

Village |

• Rilly-la-Montagne, 1er Cru
• Villers-Allerand

Vineyards |

11 hectares

• They have 13 large parcels over 11 hectares. Nearly unheard of in Champagne.
• Mostly south, south-west, and south-east facing parcels in a village that is almost entirely facing north.
• Average age of vines is 30 years old, older than the average in Champagne
• Blanches Voies: due south facing, planted in 1964, ungrafted 40% Pinot Noir and 60% Chardonnay

• Hautes Grèves: South-west facing, with both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters
• Short hot summers
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• 60% Chardonnay, almost the opposite of the village norm.

• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• 36% Pinot Noir

• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

• 4% Pinot Meunier

• Supple and fruity, often easier to drink younger than the other two, which makes it a great blending partner.
• Had a poor reputation until the last decade as it was planted in the worst sites, poorly farmed, and over-cropped as a work-horse, or filler grape.
• Now we know when treated with care, it can shine brilliantly on its own or add an inimitable character to a blend (notably in Krug).
• Easier to grow than the other two. It buds later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, meaning it's a great insurance policy against the late frosts that can decimate the groups of Champagne.
• Its dynamic nature also means it can find a home in any of the soil types of the region, but furthermore, can express terroir with clarity.

Farming |

Practicing Organic

• Biodynamic methods employed as well
• Started with the last generation, who was very strict organic, to the detriment of fruit quality in some years
• Laurent, is more pragmatic in his approach, but very committed to sustainability
• Cover crops employed for decades
• Pest control by pheromones (by the entire commune for many years)

Cellar Work |

Traditional

• Oak is the defining feature of these wines, but without a heavy imprint. It’s used as a cohesion measure.
• Pressing in Coquart, with 4 press cycles for each lot
• Top vintage wine “Coeur de Cuvée” from the heart of the free run juice.
• The Taille (final, hardest press) is sold off
• Large 2200–5500-liter foudre and demi-muid for the NV wines
• Smaller barrique as well as demi-muid for vintage wines
• Malolactic fermentation is always blocked, giving the wines a crisp acidic structure
• 10 months aging for all vin clair

About the winery |

One of the original Grower Champagne estates, established in 1890, is today run by the talented Laurent Champs. If you like Krug and Bollinger, then Vilmart is for you. They have a reputation for being on the Burgundian end of the Champagne spectrum.

Vilmart is obsessed with good vineyard work, has plenty of low-yielding older vines, and happens to make really delicious wines. Taste and you will learn. And if you have already learned, you will almost certainly want to taste some more!

Members of Les Artisans du Champagne, along with the likes of Marc Hébrart, Savart and JL Vergnon, among others. They are a producer group promoting a like-minded focus on quality.

What do the wines taste like?

Older examples of these top wines come to taste a lot like a mature Chevalier-Montrachet with fermentation and aging in barrels. Vilmart blocks the malos, retaining great mineral tension. Aside from their rosé, the wines are dominated by Chardonnay—and not the pencil-lead Chardonnay of the Côte des Blancs, but the more generous Chard that you get on the Montagne de Reims where the black grapes tend to be more dominant.

Wines on Offer | 

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grande Réserve Brut, NV $64.99 $57.19
Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grande Réserve Brut, NV (375ml) $47.99 $42.23
Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grande Réserve Brut, NV (1.5L) $82.99 $73.03
"The NV Brut Grande Réserve is a fine introduction to this range. Bright, nervy and refreshing, the Grande Réserve marries the richness of Pinot with the briskness of Chardonnay. Lemon peel, almond, chamomile and dried flowers build into the finish. There is a bit of angularity in the contours, but then again, this is the entry-level wine. Disgorged: July, 2020. 89 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grand Cellier Brut, NV $88.99 $78.31
Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grand Cellier Brut, NV (1.5L) $200.00 $176.00
Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grand Cellier Brut, NV (3L) $580.00 $510.40
"A mouthwatering Champagne that shows seamless integration of the plush and creamy mousse, rapierlike acidity and expressive range of peach, chopped nut, ripe green apple, star anise and honeysuckle aromas and flavors that persist on the long finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged January 2022. Drink now through 2027. 94 pts" -- Wine Spectator

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Cuvée Rubis Rosé Brut, NV $98.99 $87.11
"The NV Brut Rosé Cuvée Rubis is bright, floral and vibrant. Crushed red berry fruit, spice and lifted floral accents abound. The purity of the flavors is compelling. The Rubis is the most enjoyable of the three Roses I tasted from Vilmart this year. All that effusive floral, spice and mineral energy builds to the resonant finish. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Disgorged: July, 2021. 91 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grand Cellier d'Or Brut, 2017 $116.99 $102.95
"The 2017 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or is a rich, exuberant wine. In 2017, the Brut Grand Cellier d'Or has an exotic, tropical quality that is a bit unusual, but also incredibly appealing. Hints of mango, passionfruit, citrus confit and white flowers all build nicely in the glass. Medium in body and yet quite resonant, the 2017 is an absolute delight. The 2017 looks to be more of an early-drinking vintage, but I doubt that will be a problem for Vilmart fans. The blend is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Disgorged: Julv, 2021. 92 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Grand Cellier d'Or Brut, 2014 (1.5L) $300.00 $264.00
"Revisited from the September 2018 disgorgement, Vilmart's 2014 Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with scents of pear, toasted brioche, white flowers, crisp peach and honeycomb. Medium to full-bodied, vinous and incisive, with superb depth at the core, racy acids and a bright, unerringly precise finish, it's still very youthful—to the extent that I'd love to be broaching a full case a decade from now. 94+ pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Coeur de Cuvée Brut, 2014 $160.00 $140.80
"The 2014 Brut Coeur de Cuvée impresses with its density and overall energy. Apricot, baked apple tart, spice, chamomile and lightly honeyed accents all meld together. The 2014 is deep and beautifully centered, with tons of poise and impeccable balance. It's a pretty big wine by Vilmart standards, and yet all the elements are so well put together. The blend is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Disgorged: March, 2021. 94 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Coeur de Cuvée Brut, 2012 (1.5L) $550.00 $484.00
"The 2012 Coeur de Cuvée is magnificent. In this vintage Laurent Champs balances the natural intensity of the year with tremendous energy and vibrancy, making for a Champagne of remarkable beauty. Like all the Vilmart wines, the 2012 Coeur de Cuvée is super-refined. Even so, it is also incredibly tight and nowhere near ready. I find its depth, power and tension absolutely compelling. Bright saline notes, spice and floral accents extend the eternal finish. The 2012 is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Disgorged: February 2019. Don't miss it! 96 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Rosé Emotion, 2013 $170.00 $149.60
"The 2013 Brut Rosé Emotion is more interesting than the 2014 tasted alongside it, as it has more depth and overall textural presence. Here, too, I find the fruit a bit faded, while the oak imprint is unusually strong. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Disgorged: April, 2020. 90 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Rosé Emotion, 2014 $170.00 $149.60
"Vilmart's 2014 Brut Rosé Emotion is laced with sweet dried cherry, dried herbs, blood orange and mint. It offers terrific breadth for the year, with the Pinot more in evidence than in the 2015 tasted alongside it (the blend is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay for both). Eight grams of dosage feels expertly judged. Disgorged: February 2022. 94 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Les Blanches Voies Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, 2012 $400.00 $352.00
"The 2012 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies is elegant, weightless and crystalline in its purity. Lemon peel, white flowers, crushed rocks and marzipan abound. Another six months has done the 2012 wonders. A wine of transparency and crystalline purity. Even with more than two years of disgorgement, the 2012 is very tightly wound. It's all understatement and class here. 95 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne Ratafia, 2013 (500ml) $56.99 $50.15
"The 2013 Ratafia (Chardonnay) is laced with hints of dried fruit, almond, dried flowers and chamomile. It offers gorgeous complexity, along with notable energy and freshness. It is a very fine, elegant Ratafia. 94 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

“Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy’s Champagnes are marked by extraordinary precision and purity…These are very special Champagnes that richly deserve a wider audience.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy and his wife Karine. Their 5 daughters, Margaux, Sacha, Rosalie, Colombine and Azalée, will be the next generation.

Focus |

Absolutely delicious Champagne of incredible value. They balance depth and fruitiness with a backbone of tension.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Grande Vallée

Village |

• Aÿ (Grand Cru), has been the home base since 2008

• Cumières (1er Cru), was home for hundreds of years until then
• Hautvillers (1er Cru)
• Damery, in the Vallée de la Marne
• Fleurie la Rivière, in the Vallée de la Marne

Vineyards |

14 hectares

• 11 of 14 hectares are in Cumières
• Montagne: Chardonnay
• Chênes: Chardonnay
• Tournemidi: Chardonnay
• Les Tiersaudes: Pinot Meunier
• Les Houtrants, warm spot, with 5 different varieties planted
• Fleurie la rivière - all Pinot Meunier plantings
• Plots going back to 1926
• Average vine age is 20 years

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay: 24%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• Pinot Meuner: 34%
• Supple and fruity, often easier to drink younger than the other two, which makes it a great blending partner.
• Had a poor reputation until the last decade as it was planted in the worst sites, poorly farmed, and over-cropped as a work-horse, or filler grape.
• Now we know when treated with care, it can shine brilliantly on its own or add an inimitable character to a blend (notably in Krug).
• Easier to grow than the other two. It buds later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, meaning it's a great insurance policy against the late frosts that can decimate the groups of Champagne.
• Its dynamic nature also means it can find a home in any of the soil types of the region, but furthermore, can express terroir with clarity.

(By BerndtF at German Wikipedia - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3578069)

• Pinot Noir: 42%
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

Farming |

Sustainable, lutte intégrée

• Plowing which aerates the soil and avoids the use of weedkillers 
• Spontaneous grassing of multiple varieties of grass
• The use of organic manure
• Observation in order to be the least interventionist 
• Avoids spraying pesticides
• Encouraged habitation of predatory insects to combat vine pests

Cellar Work |

• Traditional Coquard basket presses
• Only the cuvée is used, the taille is sold off
• Gravity flow cellar
• A mix of fermentation and aging vessels: enameled vats, tuns, barrels, demi-muids
• Fermentation with cultured yeats
• No malolactic fermentation
• Fined and filtered before bottling
• Wines rest 3-8 years on the lees
• Low dosage, as grapes achieve adequate ripeness

About the winery |

The Geoffroy family has been farming in Cumières for hundreds of years, selling grapes to the big Champagne houses, until the 1950s, when they began making and bottling their own wines. A motto of theirs is 'extraordinary wines come from extraordinary grapes', and to that end, they endeavor to work sustainably with the environment at large. Among the many premier cru parcels they own, it’s easy to distinguish Geoffroy vines from others’, because of the lush grass growing between the rows. These are some of our favorite wines for the money from the entire portfolio.

What do the wines taste like?

They balance depth and fruitiness with a backbone of tension. Most of the fruit comes from Cumières, which is a warm site, with a lot of Pinot Noir, with a powerful base, but on very chalk soil to layer in steely minerality. There are some great Chardonnay’s in the bunch, with a little of that Ça pinotte style.

The Expression is one of the best deals in Champagne, showcasing all the best parts of the estate and in the hands of a very thoughtful blender.

Wines on Offer |

R Geoffroy, Champagne Expression Brut, NV $56.99 $50.15
R Geoffroy, Champagne Expression Brut, NV (1.5L) $129.99 $114.39
R Geoffroy, Champagne Expression Brut, NV (3L) $380.00 $334.40
"The NV Brut Expression is an attractive entry-level offering. Dried pear, chamomile, crushed herbs and spice are all nicely laced together. The Meunier is driving the style and feel of the wine this year. The Expression could benefit from a bit more depth through the middle and into the finish, but it is nicely done just the same. This release is a blend of equal parts 2017 and a perpetual reserve. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2022. 89 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media 

R Geoffroy, Champagne Empreinte Brut, 2016 $74.99 $65.99
R Geoffroy, Champagne Empreinte Brut, 2013 (375ml) $69.99 $61.59
"Disgorged in May 2019, the 2013 Brut Premier Cru Empreinte is showing well, opening in the glass with notes of citrus oil, crisp yellow orchard fruit, clear honey and wet stones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, with an inviting core of fruit, ripe but racy acids and a long, saline finish. This is a beautifully elegant, classically balanced Champagne from Geoffroy that bears the stamp of the late, cool growing season. 92 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

R Geoffroy, Champagne Rosé de Saignée Brut, NV $77.99 $68.63
R Geoffroy, Champagne Rosé de Saignée Brut, NV (375ml) $47.99 $42.23
R Geoffroy, Champagne Rosé de Saignée Brut, NV (1.5L) $177.99 $156.63
"A dense rosé Champagne with strawberry fruit and mineral undertones, as well as cooked peaches. Full-bodied with lots of fruit and a spicy finish. Minerally, too. 100% pinot noir. Dosage 4g/L. Disgorged in March 2022. Harvest 2017. Drink now. 93 pts" -- James Suckling

R Geoffroy, Coteaux Champenois Blanc Les Collinardins, 2020 $89.99 $79.19

 R Geoffroy, Champagne Madelonne Cumieres Rouge, 2021 $89.99 $79.19

 R Geoffroy, Champagne Volupté Brut, 2014 $92.99 $81.83

R Geoffroy, Coteaux Cumieres Blanc Moulin a Vent Pinot Meunier Millesime, 2018 $92.99 $81.83

R Geoffroy, Coteaux Cumieres Rouge Chalmots Pinot Noir Millesime, 2019 $92.99 $81.83

R Geoffroy, Champagne Blanc de Rose Brut, NV $129.99 $114.39
"The NV Brut Blanc de Rose is superb. Rich, effusive and so wonderfully inviting, the Blanc de Rose checks all the boxes. Sweet floral accents meld into a core of red berry fruit, cinnamon and blood orange. Two years post-disgorgement, the 2013 has an extra kick of bottle complexity that rounds things out nicely. Disgorged: March, 2019. 94 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

R Geoffroy, Champagne Les Tiersaudes Extra Brut, 2018 $134.99 $118.79
"A powerful Champagne, with firm definition from rapierlike acidity, plus a rich range of white peach puree, crème de cassis, roasted almond and lemon curd flavors. Plush and creamy, with a minerally finish of oyster shell and chalk. Disgorged July 2022. Drink now through 2030. 165 cases made, 10 cases imported. 91 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

R Geoffroy, Champagne Terre Millésime Extra Brut, 2012 $169.99 $149.59

R Geoffroy, Champagne Les Houtrants Complantés Brut Nature, NV $190.00 $167.20
"The NV Brut Nature Les Houtrants Complantés is phenomenal. What a wine. Rich, deep and explosive, the Houtrants possesses tremendous depth and energy from start to finish. Orange peel, dried flowers, ginger, mint and baked apple tart all race across the palate. This large-scaled ample Champagne is endowed with tremendous character. This is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from Geoffroy. Disgorged: September, 2020. 96 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

R Geoffroy, Champagne Millésime Extra Brut, 2004 (1.5L) $520.00 $457.60
"In February 2017, Geoffroy disgorged 300 magnums of the 2004 Extra Brut Millésime, a lovely wine that's still very youthful. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, wet stones and white flowers, complemented by subtle hints of candied fruits, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, tangy and chiseled, with a racy spine of acidity and a tightly wound core of fruit. While this is very youthful for a 2004, a touch of asperity—foregrounded by the low dosage style—betrays a year of sometimes rather marginal ripeness. 93 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

R Geoffroy, Champagne Ratafia, NV (500ml) $52.99 $46.63 

“Pierre Péters is a reference point for the Côtes des Blancs and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger…. distinguished by their combination of Mesnil tension and fruit depth.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous

People |

Rodolphe Péters

Focus |

The créme-de-la-créme of le Mesnil-sur-Oger, whether in the form of rare single vineyard wines or their excellent non-vintage blends. These are wines to drink and cherish.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Côte des Blancs

Village |

• Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru
• Oger, Grand Cru
• Avize, Grand Cru
• Cramant, Grand Cru
• Chouilly, Grand Cru

Vineyards |

19 hectares

• Les Chetillons, a legendary vineyard in le Mesnil-sur-Oger, made famous by Pierre Pétrs who has been making it into a single vineyard wine since 1971. Makes wines with a special finesse and poise.
• Le Mont Joly, mid-slope near Les Chetillons in le Mesnil-sur-Oger and now its own single vineyard wine.
• Monts Martin, in le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a mid-slope vineyard near Les Chetillons, part of the L’Esprit blend
• Belles Voyes, in Oger, a lieu-dit and part of the L’Esprit blend
• Plantes d’Oger, in Oger, a lieu-dit and part of the L’Esprit blend
• La Fosse, in Avize, a lieu-dit and part of the L’Esprit blend
• Chemin de Châlons, in Cramant, a lieu-dit and part of the L’Esprit blend

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay, 100%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Sustainable

• The Chardonnay is planted selection massale, rather than clones
• Average vine age is 30 years
• Each parcel is farmed according to its needs
• Cover crops where appropriate

Cellar Work |

Traditional

• Single parcel pressing and fermentation
• Cultured yeast was used, but he is experimenting with a pied de cuve from his vineyards.
• Fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel
• Cuvée de Reserve, their “entry-level” is a blend of the current vintages and 20 past vintages
• Wines see partial malolactic fermentation
• No pumps are used to move wine

About the winery |

Pierre Péters was founded in 1919 and Rodolphe took the reins in 2008. Their holdings are in the best Grand Cru the villages of Oger, Avize, Cramant and Chouilly; with Les Chétillons vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, as the grown jewel. 

For most of its history, the individual vineyards in Champagne were ignored for the sake of the region as a whole. It's not hard to imagine why: the wines are inimitable. But some sites are meant to be celebrated, which is why 50 years ago, François Péters was the first grower to bottle his most prized single-vineyard, Les Chétillons, under the Special Club label.

This release was so successful that he continued bottling Les Chétillons separately, eventually under its own name. Today it is one of Champagne's most sought after wines. Those who have experienced the wine can attest to its greatness, but just what is it that makes it so great? Terroir, of course!

Smack in the middle is the Grand Cru of Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, there is little to no topsoil, making this a prime site for uber-chalky Chardonnay with bubbles. Rodolphe Péters describes the wines of Les Mesnil as "...gray — it's austere, stony, much more limestone than chalk".

Sure enough, if you are familiar with the village's other two famous single-site bottlings (Salon and Krug's Clos de Mesnil) you know these are wines that need plenty of time to show their true greatness.

Rodolphe is not one to rest on his laurels. He is always pursuing the next great challenge, farming with ever more care, crafting the next best wine. It's getting harder and hard to come by these beauties, so do not hesitate when you find out.

What do the wines taste like?

His wines are known for their glossy texture, walking the tightrope of linear focus, breathtaking acidity and tight mineral core that unfolds on your palate.

Pierre Peters Cuvée de Reserve is a study in chalk, the purest expression of the very taste and texture of minerality.

Wines on Offer |

Pierre Péters, Champagne Cuvée de Réserve Brut, NV $74.99 $65.99
Pierre Péters, Champagne Cuvée de Réserve Brut, NV (1.5L) $159.99 $140.79
Pierre Péters, Champagne Cuvée de Réserve Brut, NV (3L) $400.00 $352.00
"Firm and minerally up front, with well-honed acidity and notes of smoke, chalk and oyster shell transitioning as they're integrated with a creamy range of crunchy pear, ripe green apple, pink grapefruit pith and almond skin flavors, which expand through the midpalate and lightly spiced finish. Elegant, but with good complexity and focus throughout. Disgorged May 2023. Drink now through 2028. 2,165 cases imported. 93 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator 

Pierre Péters, Champagne Réserve Oubliée Brut, NV $127.99 $112.63
"This vinous Champagne is subtle at first, more about the plushly creamy texture and underlying minerality, but lightly mouthwatering acidity buoys notes of ripe white raspberry, salted almond, macerated cherry and hints of spring blossoms and blood orange zest to expand on the palate. A deftly knit and focused version, with a sense of finesse. Drink now through 2025. 95 cases imported. 93 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

"There is plenty of energy that runs through these Champagnes, but the house signatures are nicely balanced here." -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Sébastien Mouzon and Philippe, Pascale

With help from Virginie, Emi, Geoffrey, Nicolas, Christophe and Fabien.

Focus |

Pure unadorned, single village examples of Verzy, the only ones on the market. Mineral, incisive, and restrained.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Montagne de Reims

Village |

Verzy, Grand Cru

Vineyards |

• 60 parcels across the village
• 3 hills offer distinct terroir
• Chalk to the east: Chardonnay
• Silex or flint in the middle: unique minerality
• Clay in the west: Power

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters
• Short hot summers
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• 60% Pinot Noir
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

• 35% Chardonnay
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• 5% Arbane, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier & Petit Meslier

Farming |

Biodynamic

• Certified by Demeter 
• Started conversion in 2008
• Agroforestry practices with more than 700 trees and shrubs planted on the vineyard blocks and more than 300 aromatic plants (Thyme, Oregano, Savory, Mint, etc.).
• Animals (chickens and sheep) for winter grazing.
• Horses for plowing

Cellar Work |

Natural-leaning

• Local yeasts harvested in a pied de cuve (a started with grapes from the vineyard)
• Harvests only the ripest grapes to avoid chaptalization.
• Wines naturally go through malolactic fermentation for stabilization (allows lower sulfur additions)
• Vin clair matures in barrels (from Jadot) or in stainless steel for 7-24 months, depending on cuvée
• No filtration or fining
• Very little to no sulfur (average of 15 mg/l total SO2, less than 5 mg/L free SO2)
• Secondary fermentation is with yeasts from Fleury, the biodynamic pioneer in the Aube
• Wines age on lees 3 to 5 years, depending on cuvée
• Riddling aids are used to keep the yeasts from sticking to the bottle
• Very low dosage.

About the winery |

This family has been growing grapes since the founding of our nation, in 1776, in the village of Verzy. In the 1930’s they started bottling their own wine, and Sebastian, the 9th generation, is now in charge.

Philippe, Sebastien’s father, was the first to stir the pot, both in the family and village, allowing grass to grow between the vines. Neighbors thought he was crazy.

This was nothing compared to Sebastien who made sweeping changes when he came on board in 2008. A stint in Burgundy opened his eyes to alternative farming and winemaking methods. When he returned home he joined a small study with Groupement de Développement Viticole, a branch of the Chamber of Agriculture, to trial some of his changes in the vineyards. Since then, he’s run many tests and worked with experts from around France to understand and quantify effects on soil life, plants, vineyard treatments and composting, among other things.

Now they are focused on the land above all else, not just subscribing to the fad of biodynamics, but also integrating animals and agroforestry for a true biosphere throughout their vineyards.

Mouzon-Leroux has also joined the Club Trésors de Champagne or “Special Club”. A preeminent wine-growing association who strives for quality above all else.

What do the wines taste like?

Sébastian Mouzon describes the differences between Verzenay and Verzy in this way: “In Verzenay, the mineral is inside the fruit. In Verzy, the fruit is inside the minerality.”

I find the wines to have a good mix of ripe fruit, texture, and depth. Some vintages can be yeasty, maybe a little overly so, but others, like the rosé are excellent.

Wines on Offer |

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Atavique Tradition Extra Brut, NV $67.99 $59.83
Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Atavique Tradition Extra Brut, NV (1.5L) $169.99 $149.59
"A sculpted Champagne that's firm and mouthwatering, yet the fine and creamy mousse softens the impression, bringing overall harmony. The baked white cherry, raspberry coulis, pickled ginger and anise notes are underscored by a streak of salty mineral, and accents of lime blossoms and graphite chime on the finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged February 2021. Drink now through 2025. 125 cases imported. 93 pts"—Alison Napjus

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Ascendant Solera Extra-Brut, NV $89.99 $79.19
"The NV Extra-Brut L'Ascendant is a very pretty wine based on 2017 combined in equal parts with a solera-style blend going back to 2014, 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Bright floral accents, lemon peel, white pepper, mint and crushed rocks lend freshness throughout, I very much like the vibrancy and overall energy. Dosage is 1 gram per liter. Disgorged: January, 2022. 91 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Incandescent Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut, NV $89.99 $79.19
"The (2018) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée L'Incandescent (100% Pinot Noir) is a deep, somewhat rustic Champagne, with good depth and plenty of character. I see it as a wine for the dinner table, where some of the more angular contours will be less evident. Crushed red berry fruit, game, cedar, tobacco and dried flowers linger. Dosage is 15 grams per liter. Disgorged: September, 2021. 90 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Mouzon-Leroux, Coteaux Champenoise Blanc Les Feverins, 2020 $102.99 $90.63

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Angélique Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, 2017 $114.99 $101.19
"Reveals rich hints of bread dough and walnut skin that accent brighter notes of poached apricot, white cherry and lime blossoms as they ride the wooly textured mousse. Shows saline tang and a touch of grapefruit peel, which add more to the fresh feel than the softer acidity. Disgorged October 2022. Drink now. 364 cases made, 24 cases imported. 89 pts"-- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Ineffable Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut, 2016 $119.99 $105.59
"A fresh, mineral-driven Champagne, with notes of whole-grain toast, black currant, anise extract and pastry cream set on the lacy mousse. Chalky finish. Disgorged April 2022. Drink now through 2028. 298 cases made, 24 cases imported. 92 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne Les Fervins Extra Brut, 2017 $169.99 $149.59

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Opintâre Blanc de Blancs (Sans Soufre) Extra Brut, 2016 $169.99 $149.59

Mouzon-Leroux, Champagne L'Exaltant Ratafia, NV (500ml) $69.99 $61.59

“This set of current releases from Hébrart is superb. The entry-level bottlings are delicious and very good values, while the higher-end Champagnes are incredibly distinctive.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Champagne Marc Hébrart

People |

Jean-Paul Hebrart

Focus |

The epitome of balance. Always easy to drink, but sneakily layered with the complexity and concentration that can only be achieved by farming some of the best terroir in the country.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Grande Vallée, Côte des Blancs & Montagne de Reims

Village |

• Maureil-sur-Aÿ, 1er Cru - Grande Vallée
• Avenay-Val-d’Or, 1er Cru - Grande Vallée
• Bisseuil, 1er Cru - Grande Vallée
• Dizy, 1er Cru - Grande Vallée
• Aÿ, Grand Cru - Grande Vallée
• Avize, Grand Cru - Côte des Blancs
• Chouilly, Grand Cru - Côte des Blancs
• Oiry, Grand Cru - Côte des Blancs
• Louvois, Grand Cru - Montagne de Reims

Vineyards |

15 hectares

• Pruche, in Aÿ, a lieu-dits, planted with Pinot Noir and part of the Rive Gauche Rive Droite and Noces de Craie wines
• Cheuzelles, in Aÿ, a lieu-dits, planted with Pinot Noir and part of the Rive Gauche Rive Droite and Noces de Craie wines
• Longchamps, in Aÿ, a lieu-dits, planted with Pinot Noir and part of the Rive Gauche Rive Droite and Noces de Craie wines
• Chaffour, in Aÿ, a lieu-dits, planted with Pinot Noir and part of the Rive Gauche Rive Droite and Noces de Craie wines
• Pierre Robert, in Aÿ, a lieu-dits, planted with Pinot Noir and part of the Noces de Craie wine
• Léon, in Dizy, a clos Hébrart makes a single vineyard wine from
• Noyer La Ville, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits that sits next to the Clos des Goisses
• Les Côtes, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits that sits next to the Clos des Goisses
• Faubourg d’Enfer, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits used in the Special Club bottling
• Côte, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits used in the Special Club bottling
• Haut de Varille, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits used in the Special Club bottling
• Croix Blanches, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits used in the Special Club bottling
• Sente des Demoiselles, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a lieu-dits used in the Special Club bottling
• Montaigu, in Chouilly, part of the Special Club blend
• La Justices, in Oiry, part of the Special Club blend

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Pinot Noir, 70%
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

• Chardonnay, 30%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Sustainable

• Works with organic composts
• Avoids synthetic treatments as much as possible
• Yields are kept in check by rubbing out every other bud, rather than green harvesting

Cellar Work |

Traditional

• Uses two membrane presses
• Vinifies everything separately
• Ferments most wines in enameled steel tanks and stainless steel
• Some old-vine parcels are vinified in barrel
• Fermentation at cool temperatures
• Some indigenous yeast ferments
• Most wines are allowed to go through malolactic fermentation
• Wines are disgorged at least 6 months before shipping to allow them to settle.

About the winery |

Jean-Paul took over the estate in 1997, from his father who started bottling the family's grapes in 1964. He’s one of the most soft spoken, thoughtful and kind vignerons I’ve met, and that subtly finds its way into his wines.

Hébrart has holdings in a number of top sites in both the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs but is a specialist in the super-premier-cru village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, where you find top spots like the Clos des Goisses and Selosse’s Sous le Mont. 

When he blends his top cuvées, he has a lot of great source material to choose from but even Hébrart’s entry-level wines are pitched absolutely perfectly. 

He is a member of Les Club Tresors, or the Special Club and Les Artisans du Champagne.

"Hébrart’s wines have a broad appeal: if you like to think about your wines, they’re intellectually engaging enough to satisfy you; on the other hand, if you’re just looking to drink, they’re simply delicious." - Peter Liem, Champagne Guide

What do the wines taste like?

They're elegant and complex, and will elevate any dish. But they're not flashy or over the top: more supporting players than show-boaters.

These are the wines I recommend to those who’ve only ever drunk Veuve Clicquot’s yellow label and are ready to dive into the world of “real Champagne”. Balance is the name of the game, not too heavy, not too light, not too tart, not too sweet, but just what we all want to drink.

Mes Favorites is aptly named, as it is always one of my favorite Champagnes, period.

Wines on Offer |

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Sélection Brut, NV $61.99 $54.55
Marc Hébrart, Champagne Sélection Brut, NV (375ml) $37.99 $33.43
Marc Hébrart, Champagne Sélection Brut, NV (1.5L) $144.99 $127.59
"The NV Brut Sélection is based on 2018, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. Richness and vibrancy come together in a mid weight Champagne that captures the essence of Hébrart's style. Lemon confit, apple tart, spice, chamomile and dried flowers build into the resonant finish. Disgorged: March, 2022. 91 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV $61.99 $54.55
"The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs is built on a base of fruit from Mareuil, with dollops of Oiry and Chouilly. It offers good up front intensity and almost Pinot-like expression of breath. Plum, lemon confit, spice and dried flowers all open effortlessly. The mid-palate and finish lose some of that initial exuberance, and yet there is plenty to admire here. All things considered, this is a solid value. Disgorged: November 23, 2021. 90 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Cuvée de Réserve Brut, NV $61.99 $54.55
"The NV Brut Cuvée de Réserve is an engaging Champagne from Marc Hébrart. It offers up an enticing mix of red plum, spice, mint and dried flowers. Pinot Noir drives the blend in terms of flavor profile and overall structure. The only thing this could benefit from is a bit more polish, as the contours are pretty angular. Then again, this is the NV offering. Disgorged: November 21, 2021. 89 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni 

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Rosé Brut, NV $67.99 $59.83
"The NV Brut Rose is a pleasant, easygoing, aperitif-style Rosé to drink now and over the next few years. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper and bright floral top notes give this pale-colored Rosé lovely complexity to match its delicate, understated personality. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, all from Mareuil. Disgorged: March 16, 2022. 89 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Rosé Extra Brut, NV (1.5L) $164.99 $145.19
"...Hébrart's NV Extra-Brut Premier Cru Rosé offers up notes of red apple, pear, fresh pastry and Meyer lemon. Medium to full-bodied, bright and pillowy, with racy acids and a pinpoint mousse, it's crisp and precise, with a charming core of fruit. This is another cuvée where the transition from brut to extra-brut really allows the quality of the fruit to shine. 91 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes Brut, NV $77.99 $68.63
"The NV Brut Mes Favorites Villes Vignes is a powerful, structured Champagne. There's plenty of old-vine intensity and bright acid driving a core of Pinot-based fruit. I would prefer to cellar this for at least another year or two, as it is clearly still coming together. It's a wine for readers who enjoy rich, vinous Champagnes at the dinner table. Disgorged: April 27, 2021. 92 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Marc Hébrart, Côteaux Champenois Blanc Le Leon 1er Cru, 2016 $98.99 $87.11
"This is Hébrart’s first release of Coteaux Champenois, vinified in barrel without malolactic and aged for 18 months on its fine lees. It’s all from the Dizy vineyard of Le Léon, although it doesn’t state this on the label, and it’s deliciously forward and inviting, marked by a refined texture and an elegant build. While it doesn’t have the depth or richness of Hébrart’s champagnes, it feels harmonious and expressive of place, and it will be intriguing to compare this with the champagnes made from the same site. Last tasted: 3/20" – Peter Liem Champagneguide.net

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Spécial Club Brut, 2019 $114.99 $101.19

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Spécial Club Brut, 2017 (1.5L) $220.00 $193.60
"The 2017 Brut Spécial Club ler Cru is a very classy, understated Champagne. Soft, silky contours, lifted aromatics and an exceptionally fine mousse are some of the signatures. Tasted from magnum, the 2017 is an absolute delight. It is one of the most elegant wines I have tasted from Marc Hébrart. The 2017 is just a bit light, but its balance is beyond reproach. It has enough freshness to drink well for at least a number of years. Tasted from magnum. Disgorged: January 18, 2022. 93 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Noces de Craie Extra Brut, 2016 $129.99 $114.39
"Disgorged in January 2021, Hébrart's 2016 Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Noces de Craie wafts from the glass with expressive aromas of stone fruits, green mango, confit citrus and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's a vibrant but gourmand wine with a generous, enveloping profile and a fine, pillowy mousse that's true to its Aÿ origins. This is a gastronomic Champagne that would go well with food. 94 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Rive Gauche-Rive Droite Grand Cru Brut, 2013 $148.99 $131.11
"Disgorged in May 2019, Hébrart's 2013 Extra-Brut Grand Cru Rive Gauche – Rive Droite is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, quince, nougat, white flowers and brioche. Medium to full-bodied, vinous and layered, with a deep core of fruit, racy acids and a pillowy mousse, it's concentrated and precise, with a seamless, elegant profile. Hébrart is going from strength to strength, and this cuvée exemplifies that. 94 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Rive Gauche-Rive Droite Grand Cru Brut, 2012 (1.5L) $390.00 $343.20
"Tasted from a bottle disgorged in January 2018, the 2012 Extra Brut Grand Cru Rive Gauche – Rive Droite offers up aromas of green pear, blanched almonds and crisp fresh apricots and is less marked by its barrel fermentation than some of Hébrart's earlier renditions of this cuvée. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and precise, with ripe but tangy acids, an elegantly textural attack and an ultra-fine mousse. Its charming, inviting quality is typical of Hébrart's style. 93 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Marc Hébrart, Champagne Clos de Leon 1er Cru Brut, 2014 $190.00 $167.20
Marc Hébrart, Champagne Clos de Leon 1er Cru Brut, 2014 (1.5L) $410.00 $360.80
"Disgorged April 2021, Hébrart's 2014 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos Léon wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, frangipane, freshly baked bread, nectarine and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy, it's vinous and enveloping, with racy acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse, concluding with a long, expansive finish. It's typical of Hébrart's charming style. 94 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“​​I am increasingly impressed with the Vergon Champagnes. In particular, the 2012 Hautes Mottes, 100% old-vine Chardonnay from a parcel next to Les Chétillons, is superb.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Didier Vergnon along with his son Clement and daughter in law Charlotte run the estate and Christophe Constant has been their head winemaker since 2002.

Focus |

Vivacious, nervy, chalky, expressions of the southern Côte des Blancs. Chardonnay for people who love acid and minerality.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Côte des Blancs

Village |

• Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru
• Avize, Grand Cru
• Oger, Grand Cru
• Vertus, 1er Cru
• Villeneuve, 1er Cru

Vineyards |

 5 hectares

• 30 years old on average
• Les Chetillons, they own several parcels in and next to the legendary vineyard in le Mesnil-sur-Oger
• Les Musettes, in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a lieu-dit and part of their Msnl blend.
• Les Hautes Mottes, in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a lieu-dit with their oldest vines, bottled as a single vineyard wine.
• Chemin de Flavigny, in Oger, a lieu-dit, now bottled as a single vineyard wine labeled OG.

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay, 99%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Practicing Organic

• High Environmental Value (HVE) certified. One of Champagnes top sustainability certifications
• Avoid pesticides as much as possible
• Cover cropping
• Careful pruning to limit yields
• No malolactic fermentation to ensure freshness and purity
• They harvest very ripe fruit to avoid both chaptalization and the need for much dosage.

Cellar Work |

 Traditional

• Traditional vertical basket press
• Uses both stainless steel and barrels
• Aging for a minimum of 3 years (twice the legal minimum for non-vintage wines)
• Minimal dosage, between 0-5 grams/liter

About the winery |

 For nearly 200 years the Vergnon family has lived in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, although back then it was as a retailer. In the 1950s the family realized wine growing was their passion and eventually they wanted to make their own wine, but it took until for that first release.

Today father and son team Didier and Clément run this tiny 5 hectare estate. Their commitment to quality starts in the vineyards with HVE certified grapes in some of the Côte de Blancs best villages. Their home base is in le Mesnil-Sur-Oger, the Grand Cru village home to Les Chetillons and Le Mesnil (of Pierre Peters and Krug fame respectively). The rest of their vineyards, whose old vines average 45 years, are scattered about the villages of Avize, Oger, Vertus and Villeneuve.
This is an estate that has grown on us over the years. As their vines age, now averaging 30 years, much older than the norm, and their techniques are dialed in, the wines have blossomed into thrilling, racy, elegant bottles with a clear sense of place and ineffable minerality. The last several releases have really got our attention and we can’t stop drinking them.
Members of Les Artisans du Champagne, along with the likes of Marc Hébrart, Savart and Vilmart, among others. They are a producer group promoting a like-minded focus on quality.

What do the wines taste like?

The resulting wines are pure, airy, earthy, chalky and absolutely delightful.

Wines on Offer |

JL Vergnon, Champagne Conversation Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, NV $56.99 $50.15
"The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Conversation Grand Cru is a fine introduction to the range. Deep, fleshy and super-expressive, the Conversation has so much to offer. Lemon confit marzipan, dried flowers and a kiss of spice all meld together in this generous, super-expressive Blanc de Blancs. Best of all, the Conversation is a terrific value in grower Champagne. Disgorged: October 27, 2021. 91 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

JL Vergnon, Champagne Eloquence Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut, NV $59.99 $52.79
"The NV Extra-Brut Eloquence Grand Cru is another impressive wine in this range from Vergnon. The low dosage of three grams per liter brings out freshness and energy. Lemon peel, mint, white flowers and crushed rocks build effortlessly in the glass. This release, based on 2017 with 20% reserve wines, is gorgeous. Give this a good bit of air, as it opens very nicely over time. Disgorged: October 21, 2020. 93 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

JL Vergnon, Champagne Murmure Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut Nature, NV $59.99 $52.79
"The NV Brut Nature Murmure Premier Cru, 100% 2018 Chardonnay from old vines in Vertus and Villeneuve, is bright and intensely mineral. Crushed rocks, citrus confit, white flowers and white pepper are all beautifully driven. This is an especially taut, nervy style, and it works so well. Disgorged: March, 2022. 92 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

JL Vergnon, Champagne Rosémotion Grand Cru Extra Brut Rosé, NV $84.99 $74.79
"The NV Extra Brut Rosé Rosémotion Grand Cru is a bit light and fleeting in this tasting, with unfocused aromatics and faded fruit. Certainly next to the other wines in the range, it lacks depth, complexity and pedigree. Disgorged: May 26, 2021. 97 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

JL Vergnon, Champagne OG Grand Cru Brut Nature, 2015 $101.99 $89.75

JL Vergnon, Champagne Hautes Mottes Grand Cru Brut Nature, 2013 $119.99 $105.59
"A toasty Champagne, with generous lime blossom, ground coffee, vanilla and oak spice aromatics, this is firm and lively, boasting a creamy mousse and flavors of poached quince, peach skin and raw almond. For fans of the style, though this will probably shine more brightly with a little time to absorb some of the oak. Disgorged October 2022. Best from 2025 through 2030. 91 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

“These are stellar wines. It’s as simple as that.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Nicolas and ​​Antoine Chiquet along with Antoine’s daughter Marion

Focus |

Wines of texture and purity, rich, but sleek, concentrated, yet buoyant. Luxury you can afford to drink.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Grande Vallée

Village |

• Dizy, 1er Cru, home base

• Aÿ, Grand Cru

• Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, (Super)-1er Cru)
• Cumières, 1er Cru
• Hautvillers, 1er Cru

Vineyards |

23 hectares

• Vauzelles: on the western side of Aÿ (a Pinot Noir village) are planted with Chardonnay from the 1930’s
• Haut Crohauts: same as Vauzelles, both go into the Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ
• Crohauts-Guillemoine, Dizy
• Cerisières, Dizy
• Sous-Chienne, Dizy
• Moque-Bouteille, Dizy
• La Grange de Dizy, confusingly in Hautvillers
• Colombier, Hautvillers

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay, 50%
• a high percentage for the Grande Vallée
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• Pinot Meunier, 30%
• Supple and fruity, often easier to drink younger than the other two, which makes it a great blending partner.
• Had a poor reputation until the last decade as it was planted in the worst sites, poorly farmed, and over-cropped as a work-horse, or filler grape.
• Now we know when treated with care, it can shine brilliantly on its own or add an inimitable character to a blend (notably in Krug).
• Easier to grow than the other two. It buds later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, meaning it's a great insurance policy against the late frosts that can decimate the groups of Champagne.
• Its dynamic nature also means it can find a home in any of the soil types of the region, but furthermore, can express terroir with clarity.

(By BerndtF at German Wikipedia - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3578069)

• Pinot Noir, 20%
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

Farming |

Sustainable

• The vineyards are all sélection massale, rather than modern clones
• Certified Champagne Sustainable Viticulture
• Certified High Environmental Value (HVE)
• Biodiversity conservation, terroir and landscape development
• Plant protection strategy using alternative methods
• Management of fertilizer use
• Accountable management of water, waste-water, by-products and waste
• 30-50% are planted with grass
• Helps with run-off, erosion, and disease
• Pheromone treatment for pests
• A mix of older and younger plots

Cellar Work |

• Each parcel is pressed and vinified separately before blending
• First press, and the best wines comes from the traditional vertical basket press
• The subsequent two presses are programed on a 4,000 kg Coquart, allowing them to do each parcel separately
• All wines ferment in stainless steel
• All go through malolactic fermentation
• Non-vintage wines age for 2-3 years (legal minimum is 18 months)
• Vintage for 6-10 years (legal minimum is 3 years)
• Riddling is a combination of hand work and gyropalettes.
• Dosage and topping up is made entirely of sugar and juice from the "Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ"
• Use Mytik diamant corks to avoid any TCA/cork taint

About the winery |

The Chiquet family has been growing grapes in the Pinot Noir-centric Grande Vallée since the mid-1700s, and they were among the first to make and bottle Champagne under their own name, in the aftermath of World War I. The very way we think of Champagne today would not exist, were it not for the many generations of Chiquet's devoted to their vines.

Each Chiquet Champagne, even the entry-level non-vintage wines, comes from Premier or Grand Cru sites. They are perhaps best known for producing a singular, outstanding Blanc de Blancs Champagne from the Grand Cru, Pinot Noir village of Aÿ; it manages to express both the mineral charm of Chardonnay-based Champagne and the unique terroir of the village.

A founding member of the Club Tresors de Champagne (Special Club).

What do the wines taste like?

The fruit comes from great parcels of many older vine plots, offering a particular richness and concentration. Texture is also added through malolactic fermentation, but a crisp backbone is kept intact with all stainless steel aging.

These are great deals for those who like to find a balance between elegance, delicacy and depth.

Wines on Offer |

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Tradition Brut, NV $54.99 $48.39
Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Tradition Brut, NV (375ml) $35.99 $31.67
Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Tradition Brut, NV (1.5L) $119.99 $105.59
"The NV Brut Tradition (2016 base) is a fine start to this tasting of new releases from Chiquet. Exotic tropical notes give the Tradition lovely aromatic presence to match its airy, nuanced personality. All the elements are so nicely balanced. This release is perhaps a bit light, but it is also quite harmonious and appealing, especially for the price. Disgorged: January, 2022. 88 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Rosé Brut, NV $59.99 $52.79
"The NV Brut Rosé (2020 base) is stellar. Lifted floral and savory accents meld into a core of punchy red-toned fruit. Cranberry, white pepper, mint, crushed rocks and blood orange build into the nervy, resonant finish. The Rosé is light in color and finessed, but also has tons of richness, much of that coming from the 18% still Pinot in the blend. Disgorged: March, 2022. 92 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Cuvée de Réserve Brut, NV $59.99 $52.79
"A mouthwatering Champagne, with a streak of chalky minerality underscoring flavors of ripe green apple and black raspberry fruit, toasted almond and blood orange gelée. Floral finish. Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged October 2022. Drink now. 200 cases imported. 91pts" -- Wine Spectator

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut, NV $61.99 $54.55
Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut, NV (1.5L) $159.99 $140.79
"With its lively, lacy mousse and well-cut acidity, this balanced Champagne would serve well as an aperitif, while its fine mesh and focused creamed apple, biscuit, preserved lemon and minerally brine flavors also recommend this to food. Try with fresh-shucked oysters or other shellfish. Disgorged December 2022. Drink now. 650 cases imported. 93pts" - Wine Spectator

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Millésime Carte d'Or Brut, 2018 $71.99 $63.35
"A bright, lively Champagne, with a crisp texture to the mousse as it carries flavors of crunchy white peach, blood orange sorbet, slivered almond and licorice. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now. 375 cases imported. 90 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut, 2013 $82.99 $73.03
Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut, 2013 (1.5L) $160.00 $140.80
Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut, 2014 (1.5L) $160.00 $140.80

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne Spécial Club Brut, 2015 $98.99 $87.11
"Finely balanced, with bright acidity enlivening delicately woven flavors of cherry, crushed almond, blood orange sorbet and toast point. Satiny in texture, with floral and mineral accents on the finish. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now through 2028. 625 cases imported. 93 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

People |

Now run by Marianne, daughter of Fabienne Heucq, husband Philippe Gamet along with their son Jean-François

Focus |

Very small production, artisanal bubbles, crafted by hand from a polycultural farm. These are bubbles of the earth, wholesome, delicious and energetic.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Vallée de la Marne

Village |

• Mardeuil
• Fleurie la Rivière 
• Damery

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Vineyards |

8 hectares

Grape Varieties |

• Pinot Meunier
• Supple and fruity, often easier to drink younger than the other two, which makes it a great blending partner.
• Had a poor reputation until the last decade as it was planted in the worst sites, poorly farmed, and over-cropped as a work-horse, or filler grape.
• Now we know when treated with care, it can shine brilliantly on its own or add an inimitable character to a blend (notably in Krug).
• Easier to grow than the other two. It buds later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, meaning it's a great insurance policy against the late frosts that can decimate the groups of Champagne.
• Its dynamic nature also means it can find a home in any of the soil types of the region, but furthermore, can express terroir with clarity.

(By BerndtF at German Wikipedia - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3578069)

• Pinot Noir
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

• Chardonnay
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Traditional with sustainable practices

• Every year is different, so pragmatism is key
• Synthetics are alternated with products like copper and sulfur, when allowed
• Some vintages grass is allowed to grow, others are tilled
• They are polycultural and also bee keep, make cider and farm cereals

Cellar Work |

Traditional, with natural practices

• Fermentation is with a pied de cuve from their vineyards
• Use a mix of vessels: stainless steel, demi-muids and barrels
• Maturation in barrel for 10 months before bottling
• Aging on the lees for 2-6 years depending on the cuvée

About the winery |

One of the newer producers in the Skurnik line up and an innovative one at that. Two families, originally female pioneer growers after WWI, have come together from either side of the Marne river to find a deeper understanding of their terroir. Not only are they growing grapes, they focus on farming other food crops, cider making, and keeping the protection of their cherished environment above all else.

Fabienne Heucq from Fleury-la-Rivière on the warmer right bank met, fell in love with, married and joined estates with Philippe Gamet from Mardueil, on the cooler left bank. Today they work alongside their children, Marianne & Jean-François, to create beautiful, complex and delicious wines. 

What do the wines taste like?

The wines are fresh and appealing, light on their feet with nice textural elements and great complexity for the price. This is thanks to having a lot of land with a wide variation in exposition, elevation and soil type, and all three grapes. 

Wines on Offer |

Gamet, Champagne Cider, NV $32.99 $29.03

Gamet, Champagne Rive Droite Blanc des Noirs Brut, NV $52.99 $46.63
Gamet, Champagne Rive Droite Blanc des Noirs Brut, NV (375ml) $39.99 $35.19
"The NV Brut Blanc des Noirs Rive Droite (base 2020) is laced with sweet red plum, kirsch, ginger, spice and dried flowers. Medium in body yet quite persistent, the Blanc de Noirs has a ton to offer. It's rich but not at all heavy, and certainly well balanced. Pretty floral accents lift the finish. The Rive Droite is a bit reticent but very nicely done. 90pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media 

Gamet, Champagne Rosé Brut, NV $54.99 $48.39
"A rosé blend of black grapes only, blended with red Meunier Coteaux-Champenois, homemade! A fruity and full-bodied wine, orchestrated by a clay minerality that gives volume on the palate. The whole is fresh and delicious! A festive rosé, for all the good times." Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Gamet, Champagne Rive Gauche Brut, NV $56.99 $50.15
Gamet, Champagne Rive Gauche Brut, NV (1.5L) $139.99 $123.19
Gamet, Champagne Rive Gauche Brut, NV (3L) $350.00 $308.00
"Rive Gauche is a blend of Mardeuil terroirs, a cru where 1/3 of their holdings are located. Clay-limestone terroirs, rich in minerals where the three Champagne grape varieties are present. Meunier, king of the Valley, Pinot Noir, as well as Chardonnay. This cuvée, elegant and of great finesse, is introduced by notes of peach, quince, roasted almond, acacia flowers and hawthorn. A fruity and floral cuvée offering an intense clay minerality, accompanied by aromas of fleshy fruits." Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Gamet, Champagne Caractères Réserve Perpetuelle Extra Brut, NV $82.99 $73.03
Gamet, Champagne Caractères Réserve Perpetuelle Extra Brut, NV (1.5L) $159.99 $140.79
"The NV Extra Brut Caracteres Reserve Perpetuelle (base 2016) is a Meunier based wine with reserves going back 1999. Those older vintages lend notable complexity as well as character. Apricot, spice, hazelnut, dried pear and crushed herbs all meld together effortlessly. This is really quite gorgeous. 93 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Gamet, Champagne Rosé de Saignée Brut, 2018 $77.99 $68.63

Gamet, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, 2018 $88.99 $78.31

Gamet, Champagne Heurte-Loup Blanc de Meunier, 2018 $94.99 $83.59
"A mineral-driven Champagne defined by bracing acidity. Verges on lean, but the soft, wooly mousse helps to counter the impression as well as carry the subtle weave of black currant, raw almond, saffron and toast. Drink now. 217 cases made, 38 cases imported. 89 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator 

"At their best, the Moussé Champagnes are defined by dynamic energy and delineation.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

Cedric Moussé

Focus |

A Pinot Meunier master, who capitalizes on their unique terroir. Lively, intense and characterful and some of our favorites from the region.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Vallée de la Marne

Village |

• Cuisles, home base
• Jonquery
• Châtillon-sur-Marne
• Olizy-Violaine
• Vandières

Vineyards |

9.5 hectares

• 90% of the soils are composed of green clays over limestone marls

• Les Varosses, in Cuisles,planted to Chardonnay and makes up his single-vineyard Anecdote
• Les Fortes Terres, in Cuisles, a lieu-dit that makes up the Special Club by the same name
• Les Bouts de la Ville, in Cuisles, a south facing plot that makes up the Special Club Rosé de Saignèe

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

•  Pinot Meunier, 80%
• Supple and fruity, often easier to drink younger than the other two, which makes it a great blending partner.
• Had a poor reputation until the last decade as it was planted in the worst sites, poorly farmed, and over-cropped as a work-horse, or filler grape.
• Now we know when treated with care, it can shine brilliantly on its own or add an inimitable character to a blend (notably in Krug).
• Easier to grow than the other two. It buds later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, meaning it's a great insurance policy against the late frosts that can decimate the groups of Champagne.
• Its dynamic nature also means it can find a home in any of the soil types of the region, but furthermore, can express terroir with clarity.

(By BerndtF at German Wikipedia - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3578069)

• Pinot Noir, 16%
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

• Chardonnay, 4%
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Sustainable with Organic and Biodynamic practices

• Jean-Marc, Cedric’s father was the first in the village to allow grass to grow between the vines, starting in 1976
• Stopped use of synthetic pesticides in 2014
• Started phasing out herbicide spray in 2008, stopped in 2013
• The steepest plots are plowed by horse
• Cedric has a deep commitment to ultra-responsible production and sustainability. Working towards zero carbon emissions
• Homemade compost is used, and wet with recycled water

• Lots of experimentation in the vineyards
• Wood diseases treated with essential oils

Cellar Work |

Natural-leaning

• In 2009, Jean-Marc and Cedric rebuilt their cellar to be eco-friendly
• A big focus on experimentation in all facets of winemaking
• Fermentation with organic yeasts
• All wines go through malolactic fermentation
• Vin Clair stays on the lees in tank until the spring
• In 2017 they make some big changes, remove the “masks” and allow the fruit to show its true characteristics.
• No sugar at disgorgement
• No additives during winemaking
• Stop the use of petroleum sulfur
• No new oak
• Limit oxidation by designing a new process for harvest and pressing

• Believes in raising the vibrancy levels of the wines
• Green ice, from corn alcohol is a new system used to chill the lees before disgorgement
• New labels are made with recycled paper, whitened with chalk

• Capsules made of recyclable paper, 5 x less carbon than aluminum

• Solar panels for water heating
• Cellar temperature is controlled by geothermal exchanger

About the winery |

Pinot Meunier has always played "third fiddle" to Champagne's power couple, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Growers always liked having it around because it buds later than PN and Chard, which means it's less likely to be damaged by the late frosts that can hit Champagne so far north--especially in the Marne Valley. For growers it meant diversification.

For drinkers, on the other hand, it was an unglamorous variety that often came across as rustic or rough-edged. But that perception has been changing. Culty producers like Jerome Prevost and Raphael Bérèche make highly sought-after Meunier-based wines. And even below the superstar level there's a whole generation of small growers who have started putting out really delicious Meunier-focused champagnes that don't break the bank.

The Moussé’s are a classic example. Starting with Eugene Moussé and the first bottling of a special clone of Pinot Meunier on illite in 1923. His son Edmond took over in 1947 after WWII and was known for his joie de vivre, living life to the fullest after the devastation of the war.

Jean-Marc inherited his father’s energy and was the mayor of Cuiseles for 25 years, until an accident led to his early death in 2013. He was also one of the first people in Champagne to reintroduce grass between the vines, and rethink the entire process from vineyard to bottle in a more quality and ecologically minded way.

Cedric Moussé returned to the family estate in 2000, took over the family estate in 2003, and worked by his father's side until his passing. He was the 12th generation to grow grapes and the 4th to bottle them into his own wine. Like his forefathers he’s implemented ever more changes towards making wines of purity. He doesn’t just talk the talk, he walks the walk, with a single-minded focus on holistic sustainable practices.

Although consistency has been an issue during many years of experimentation, they have paid off and are now some of our very favorite wines in Champagne.

Members of Les Club Tresors (The Special Club). They were the first there to release a 100% Pinot Meunier bottling and a Rosé de Saignée, both of which are now two of the most anticipated wines of every vintage.

What do the wines taste like?

Precise, savory, and bright-fruited, with no oak influence. They show Meunier's pretty side: purity of red fruit, white flowers, subtle herbal tones, as well as more exotic citrus fruit and tropical tones. But more so they show its terroir transparency, with clear saline mineral signatures.

Wines on Offer |

Famille Moussé, Champagne Eugène Extra Brut, NV $59.99 $52.79
Famille Moussé, Champagne Eugène Extra Brut, NV (1.5L) $159.99 $140.79
"Floral on the nose and fine and satiny on the palate, this well-integrated Champagne shows notes of peach puree and ripe green apple, a subtle streak of salinity and accents of ground ginger and cherry blossoms. Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged November 2021. Drink now. 350 cases imported. 92 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Famille Moussé, Champagne L'Esquisse Extra Brut, NV $59.99 $52.79

Famille Moussé, Champagne Anecdote Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, NV $71.99 $63.35
"The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Anecdote Lieu Dit Les Varosses emerges from a parcel in Cuisles. Lemon confit, orchard fruit and floral nuances are now nicely mellowed by the passage of time in this disgorgement from a few years ago. This release marries the energy of the Moussé house style with the softer contours that can only develop in bottle. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 25, 2016. 91 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Famille Moussé, Champagne Eugène Rosé Extra Brut, NV $77.99 $68.63
"An expressive rosé Champagne, with hints of violet, tea rose and spice wafting through flavors of macerated raspberry, chopped almond, oyster shell and saline set on a chalky mousse. Mouthwatering finish. Pinot Meunier with Pinot Noir. Disgorged June 2021. Drink now. 92 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Famille Moussé, Champagne Anecdote Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, 2019 $82.99 $73.03
"Firm and fresh, with creaminess to the persistent bead as it carries flavors of crushed almond, pear tart, Meyer lemon peel, anise and white blossoms. Chalky in texture on the minerally finish. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now through 2030. 40 cases imported. 92 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Famille Moussé, Champagne Les Vignes de Mon Village - et de Celui d'à Côté Brut Nature, NV $84.99 $74.79

Famille Moussé, Champagne Les Vignes de Mon Village Brut Nature, NV $84.99 $74.79
Famille Moussé, Champagne Les Vignes de Mon Village Brut Nature, NV (1.5L) $160.00 $140.80
Famille Moussé, Champagne Les Vignes de Mon Village Brut, NV (3L) $540.00 $475.20
"The NV Brut Nature Les Vignes de Mon Village is all Meunier, vintages 2017 and 2016, bottled with no dosage. Light and airy in feel, the Vignes de Mon Village is delicate and very nicely lifted. Hints of dried pear, spice, ginger, crushed flowers and chamomile all grace this gracious Champagne from Mousse. Disgorged: April 21, 2022. 92 pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Famille Moussé, Champagne Eugène Longue Garde Brut Nature, NV $89.99 $79.19

Famille Moussé, Champagne Terre d'Illite Extra Brut, 2019 $94.99 $83.59

Famille Moussé, Champagne Hommage à Cuisles Extra Brut, NV $123.99 $109.11
"A fresh Champagne, with savory notes of toasted almond and smoke meeting blackberry and orange pith accents on a soft, cottony palate. Disgorged December 2022. Drink now. 167 cases imported. 90 pts" -- Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Famille Moussé, Champagne La Confiance de Mon Père Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut, 2019 $160.00 $140.80

Famille Moussé, Champagne Spécial Club Rosé de Saignée Brut, 2018 $164.99 $145.19

Famille Moussé, Champagne Les Fortes Terres Extra Brut, 2016 (1.5L) $250.00 $220.00
"The 2016 Meunier Les Fortes Terres is lifted, beautifully perfumed and so expressive. Apricot, dried flowers, chamomile and lightly roasted nuts are all enhanced in this airy, understated expression. This is very typical of the year. Dosage is 1.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 15, 2021. 92 pts" -- By Antonio Galloni

“This Vertus domaine numbers among my favorite addresses on the Côte de Blancs, and the Doyard family’s vinous, incisive Champagnes deserve a place in any well-stocked cellar. Deep, concentrated and characterful, everything that bears the Doyard label is well worth serious attention.” -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

People |

Charles Doyard and his father Yannick

Focus |

Stunning Blanc de Blancs given the time needed to achieve exemplary quality Champagne. There is no lack of finesse, complex minerality, creamy mousse and elegant finishes.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Côte des Blancs

Village |

• Vertus, 1er Cru, home base
• Avize, Grand Cru, CdB
• Cramant, Grand Cru, CdB
• Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru, CdB
• Oger, Grand Cru, CdB
• Aÿ, Grand Cru, Grande Vallée

Vineyards |

11 hectares

• Average vine age is 40 years, twice that of the rest of the region
• Clos de l’Abbaye, a ½ hectare clos, behind Doyard’s winery, a warm and chalky site with vines from 1956.

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• Pinot Noir
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

Farming |

• No new replacements of vineyards, only dead vines to increase the age.
• Permanent mounted Royat cordon pruning for yield control
• Most vineyards are worked by horse

Cellar Work |

Practicing Organic & Biodynamic

• Coquard PAI press is used (the newest, most precise and gentle of presses)
• All parcels vinified separately
• Most vintage wines are in barrel 
• The rest are in barrel or tank
• A minimum of 48 months on the lees (that's just the non-vintage!), often it ends up being 5 or more years.
• Nothing else is decide by recipe and can change with the cuvée and the vintage
• Sometimes malolactic fermentation is allowed

About the winery |

The Doyard family has roots in Champagne dating back to the 17th century, and starting gaining recognition in the 70s for creating precise, mineral-etched champagnes. The domaine farms 10 ha of vineyards in Vertus and the Grand Cru villages of Le Mesnil, Cramant, Oger, Avize and a plot in the Vallée de la Marne's famed Aÿ.

The viticultural philosophy employed is a ‘non-dogmatic’ approach to biodynamic farming with absolutely no herbicides or pesticides used. Most of the vineyards are worked by horse and yields are kept intentionally kept low, adding to the focused intensity that defines the house style.

In the cellar, all of the wines undergo very long lees aging—a minimum of 48 months, lending a vinous quality to the wines that have become the envy of Chardonnay producers everywhere. Every single decision made in the vineyard and cellar are geared toward making the most expressive, terroir focused Champagne possible. These are consistently some of the finest wines we enjoy year in and year out.

They have been part of an association called “Les Artisans du Champagne” since 2010. Focused

What do the wines taste like?

Creamy, mineral, elegant, hugs, delicate, perfect examples of the finesse of the Côte des Blancs. 

Wines on Offer |

Doyard, Champagne Vendémiaire 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV $64.99 $57.19
"Based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by reserve wines from 2016 and 2015, Doyard's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Vendémiaire (2017 base) delivers inviting aromas of citrus oil, crisp stone fruit, almond paste and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate with tangy acids and a charming, giving profile, concluding with a bright, saline finish. No matter the base vintage, this bottling attains incredible consistency in terms of quality. 92 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Doyard, Champagne Révolution Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé, NV $92.99 $81.83
Doyard, Champagne Révolution Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé, NV (1.5L) $180.00 $158.40
"Based on the 2016 vintage and disgorged early this year, Doyard's NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non Dosé Révolution offers up aromas of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, honeycomb, almonds and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's a taut, elegantly textural Champagne with a fine mousse and a long, saline finish. It's another fine rendition of this immensely reliable cuvée. 94 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Doyard, Vertus Coteaux Champenois Blanc, 2020 $94.99 $83.59
100% Chardonnay from a single site in Vertus with 50+ year old vines. Fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in barrel (40% new) for 18 months.

Doyard, Ay Coteaux Champenois Rouge, 2020 $109.99 $96.79
Doyard, Ay Coteaux Champenois Rouge, 2020 (1.5L) $210.00 $184.80
100% Pinot Noir from a single site in Ay Grand Cru with 25+ year old vines. Indigenous yeast fermentation with 10% whole cluster. Aged in barrel (30% new) for 18 months.

Doyard, Champagne Oeil de Perdrix Extra Brut Grand Cru, 2018 $169.99 $149.59
"The 2018 Extra-Brut Grand Cru Millésimé Œil de Perdrix is lovely, wafting from the glass with scents of orange blossom, mirabelle plum, sweet citrus fruit and red berries. Medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with a fleshy core of fruit and lively acids, it's an elegant, charming wine that offers demonstrative drinking out of the gates. 95 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 

Doyard, Champagne La Libertine Doux, NV $250.00 $220.00
 "As I've written before, the NV Doux La Libertine is one of the finest examples of this largely forgotten and unfashionable category. Delivering aromas of dried fruits, peaches, warm biscuits, toasted nuts and honeycomb, it's a medium to full-bodied, fleshy, flamboyantly sweet Champagne of notable interest and complexity. It would work well with a wide range of desserts to conclude a meal. It's a blend of reserve wines back to 2000, omitting a few of the less favorable vintages in the interim. 93 pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate