Producers

People |

Quentin & Marine Vinecey

Focus |

Healthy soils, healthy vines, clean, exemplary fruit, old-school winemaking, all by hand and expertly conceived. For those who like Burgundy with bubbles.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Côte de Blancs

Village |

• Oger, Grand Cru
• Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru
• Avize, Grand Cru
• Vertus, 1er Cru

Vineyards |

8 hectares

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

Farming |

Certified Organic & Biodynamic

• Mostly old vines
• Mostly selection massale rather than clones
• Focus is on the vineyards
• Demeter Biodynamic certified since 2023

Cellar Work |

Traditional

• Pressing in an old vertical basket press
• Short sedimentation
• Gravity flow to the cellar
• Old, deep, cold cellar
• Natural fermentation with wild yeasts
• Matured in French oak barrique and 500L tonneau
• Each barrels is allowed its own course, some go through malolactic fermentation, some develop flor (the yeast veil found in sherry, Selosse and Chartogne-Taillet)
• Bottled for secondary fermentation in the summer
• Long lees aging
• Hand riddled
• Hand disgorged

About the winery |

A tiny, new-ish, new-school, estate, but one we are already thrilled to be drinking. This husband and wife team have the majority of their vines in Oger, mostly old and with selection massale plantings. They believe soil health and farming take precedence over winemaking, and lucky for us they seem to be right.

Now housed in a 17th century Chateau in Villeneuve-Renneville, 9 minutes from the bulk of their vineyards. Here they prepare most of their biodynamic preparations and take advantage of the deep, cold cellar.

For years they sold off 100% of their grapes, but they started to bottle their own Champagnes in 2014. It was just a few hundred bottles at first; they are slowly increasing production as they find their feet.

We recently tasted through their latest lineup, and they have definitely found their feet. Much more than that. We felt like we were tasting wines that easily belonged in the same echelon as the superstars from the newish Selosse-inspired school (such as Bouchard, Chartogne-Taillet and Ulysse Colin). The techniques are similar: biodynamic farming, natural wine-making, and a focus on terroir. Except here the terroir is mostly Oger, and the grapes are all Chardonnay.

What do the wines taste like?

Old-school, textural, Burgundian-like Chardonnay, thanks to the old barrels and wild yeasts. They have a golden complexity and creamy mouthfeel. Exactly the kind of Champagne you want to sit and think about, but offering immense pleasure as well.

Wines on Offer |

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Oger Grand Cru Extra Brut, 2017 $82.99 $73.03
"This is a selection of old vine parcels in the Oger area that is 100% oak vinified and aged in bottle. Incredibly seductive with rich, exotic and salty notes. There is no reticence here as the first sip is generous yet brilliantly precise with delicate citrus and lightly toasted nuts whispering in the background. There is a beautiful balance between fruit and the tense and bright palate with minerality. This is the type of Champagne that only continues to improve after it has been opened. It takes on a Burgundian quality with pine nuts, exotic fruits, lemon peel and a healthy pinch of salt floating on perfectly chiseled, chalky minerality. Sweet lemon joins in through a concentrated and long finish. A supremely delicious bottle of wine." -- Flatiron Wines

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Interlude Oger Grand Cru Brut Nature, NV $97.99 $86.23
"A blend of 2019 and 2018 fruit. Made with flor, like at Chartogne-Taillet, and no sulfur, no dosage. As a result, it is less fresh fruity and more cream, structure and complexity." -- Flatiron Wines

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Interlude Oger Grand Cru Brut Nature, NV $97.99 $86.23
"A blend of 2019 and 2018 fruit. Made with flor, like at Chartogne-Taillet, and no sulfur, no dosage. As a result, it is less fresh fruity and more cream, structure and complexity." -- Flatiron Wines 

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Oger Grand Cru Extra Brut, 2018 $104.99 $92.39
"A great introduction to the domaine as it showcases the terroir of their home village of Oger. 1 gram dosage. This may be the domaine’s “entry level” offering, but it is a great wine in its own right, Apples, pears, peaches and a touch of pastry shop." -- Flatiron Wines

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Le Grand Jardin Oger Grand Cru Brut Nature, 2015 $112.99 $99.43
"Vincey is certified organic and Demeter certified biodynamic as of 2023. Coming form old vines that were planted in 1969 in a tiny .45ha parcel in the couer de grand cru. The fruit is pretty and round but the chalk soils from Oger Grand Cru truly shine through as a beautful mineraly backbone." -- Flatiron Wines

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Le Grand Jardin Oger Grand Cru Brut Nature, 2018 $139.99 $123.19
"From a single parcel planted in the heart of Oger 70 years ago. No dosage. A big step up from the previous wines in terms of weight, intensity, and chalky intricacy." -- Flatiron Wines

Domaine Vincey, Champagne Auge Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru Brut Nature, 2018 $139.99 $123.19
"One of two single vineyard offerings from neighboring Mesnil. No dosage. Very pure Mesnil with endless chalkiness at one level, and deliciously fresh fruit at another, finding each other in perfect harmony on the finish." -- Flatiron Wines 

“This is a stellar set of wines from Alexandre Chartogne…The combination of vinous, textural intensity and vibrancy conferred by low dosage, makes for compelling, often thrilling, Champagne.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous

People |

Alexandre Chartogne

Focus |

Masterful wines, everything but the essentials by stripped away to display their essence of place.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

• Montagne de Reims
• Côte des Blancs

Village |

• Merfy, home base in Montagne de Reims
• Chenay, in Montagne de Reims
• Avize, Grand Cru in Côte des Blancs
• Oger, Grand Cru in Côte des Blancs

Vineyards |

11.68 hectares

• Merfy
• Les Barres, southwest exposure, very sandy soil. Ungrafted Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier are planted.
• Les Oriseaux, south and north exposure, sand, up to 2 meters over limestone and chalk, along with rare illite (like Mousse). Pinot Noir planted in 1970.
• Les Beaux Sens, south exposure, a meter of limestone sand over chalk. Planted between 1974-2013. Blended into St. Anne
• Le Chemin de Reims, south / south-east exposure, iron-rich sand over chalk. Planted in 1980, 1995, 2011. 85% Chardonnay, 15% Arbanne
• Les Grands Champs, south / south-east exposure, a steeper slope for higher ripeness. Clay with limestone over chalk means more water retention, often grassed to avoid erosion. Used in the St. Anne blend. 
• Les Bermonts, planted in 1989 and goes into the St. Anne blend.
• Les Fontaines, east and west exposure, well draining chalky sandy soils over chalk and sandstone, very low yields. Blended into the St. Anne.
• Les Ricordanes, planted in 1972 and 1991, blended into St. Anne.
• Les Brets, east and north-east exposition for a cooler profile. High amounts of moisture retaining clay, sand and silt over chalk. On a slope and prone to compaction makes this only workable by horse. Planted in 1997 and 1991. Used in the St. Anne blend.
• Le Closet, 100% Pinot Meunier planted in 1970 and 1992, for the St. Anne wine.
• Le Mont Agé, south / south-east exposition. Water retaining sandy clay over clay means these can only be worked by horse. 100% Pinot Meunier planted in 1980-1983, goes into St. Anne.
• Les Alliées, planted in1969 to 100% Point Meunier and goes into the St. Anne.
• Les Couarres, southern exposure on a gentle slope. One section is sand and clay over tufa (a type of limestone usually found in the Loire) the other is limestone sands over clay and rock. These are the most water retentive soils and lead to high yields which have to be managed with pruning and de-budding. 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, planted in 1970 and 2009. This is a single vineyard wine.
• Les Heurtes Bises, southern exposure, sandy clay over sandstone. Planted in 1972, 1985, 1986, and 2010 to mostly Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for its own single vine
• Avize
• Les Barmonts, on the upper plains, clay-limestone-flint over chalk
• Les Roches, on the upper and mid-slope plains, clay-limestone-flint over chalk
• Le Mont Cramant, mid-slope, clay-limestone over chalk
• Justice
• La Noue du Porchet
• Les Chantraines
• Les Gros Yeux Du Couchant
• Les Crayeres
• Le Clos Jacquin
• Avize & Oger, split between the two
• Les Pierres Vaudon, on the plain, clay-limestone and chalk
• Fosse le Prête, on the plain, clay-limestone and chalk
• Les Monts Chenevaux, on the plain, clay-limestone and chalk
• Chemin de Chalons, on the plain, clay-limestone and chalk

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters, short hot summers
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Variations between his sites are due to aspect, elevation and proximity to water, like the Marne river.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Pinot Noir, 50%
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

• Chardonnay, 40%
• a high percentage for the Grande Vallée
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• Pinot Meunier, 10%
• Supple and fruity, often easier to drink younger than the other two, which makes it a great blending partner.
• Had a poor reputation until the last decade as it was planted in the worst sites, poorly farmed, and over-cropped as a work-horse, or filler grape.
• Now we know when treated with care, it can shine brilliantly on its own or add an inimitable character to a blend (notably in Krug).
• Easier to grow than the other two. It buds later than Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, meaning it's a great insurance policy against the late frosts that can decimate the groups of Champagne.
• Its dynamic nature also means it can find a home in any of the soil types of the region, but furthermore, can express terroir with clarity.

(By BerndtF at German Wikipedia - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3578069)

• Arbanne, one of the rare grapes of Champagne

Farming |

Natural-ish

• Not certified
• No insecticides, herbicides or fertilizers
• Usually uses plant extracts, copper and sulfur for fungicides, but in especially bad years will use synthetics, rather than compact the delicate soil structure with excessive applications of natural products
• He works with Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, the two foremost experts on soil microbiology. 
• Half the vineyards are plowed and harvest by horse
• Treatments are sprayed using a cart, rather than tractor to avoid compaction
• Most of the work is done by hand, with the health of the soil the top priority
• Sheep and chickens add fertilizer
• Replants with selection massale cuttings
• Some of their roots go down more than 65 feet!

Cellar Work |

Traditional - Natural-leaning

• Pneumatic press
• Native yeasts for primary fermentation, not a pied de cuve
• Native, selected, pied de cuve yeasts for secondary fermentation
• Fermentation in 228L and some 600L French oak barrels
• Occasional stainless steel is used
• Reserve wines are kept in large underground concrete tanks
• Vin clair ages for 9 months before blending and bottling
• Malolactic is allowed to happen naturally

About the winery |

Alexandre Chartogne is one of Grower Champagne’s indisputable super-stars. Together with Aurelien Laherte, of Laherte Frères, they form an expanding class of producers who support each other in their exploration of the minutiae of Champagne's largely undiscovered terroir.

After a stage with the great Antoine Selosse, Alexandre returned to the family estate and turned it upside down. He’s tinkered with every aspect of Champagne making from vine management to vessels. He's landed back where he says his ancestors started: in the vineyards of Merfy, growing perfect fruit and aging in neutral oak.

Merfy has been planted with vines since Roman times and was considered one of the best villages of the middle ages under the care of the Abbey of Saint Thierry. But phylloxera and WWI were not kind to the area, much of it was destroyed and it fell into obscurity. Alexandre is the only grower-bottler there now and has made it his mission to uncover the long forgotten truths of his heritage.

With a handle on his home turf he's turned that curiosity towards the other prized sub-regions in Champagne. Starting with the Côte de Blancs, the new Hors Serie is his first wine from the village of Avize. From a terroir purist it's not hard to believe how starkly different this wine tastes compared to the rest of his line up, but it is no less a pure expression of its own place.

As he's mastered his techniques and terroir, from the small, northern village of Merfy, his wines have blossomed into some of the most compelling wines in Champagne.

Chartogne-Taillet is a member of Terres et Vins de Champagne, started by his friends Raphael Bereche and Aurelien Laherte. The focus is on promoting terroir driven wines and each year they host a tasting of their vin clairs, the first an only event of its kind.

What do the wines taste like?

Magical. They start with fruit, which is there and you can taste it, lemons, red apple, berries, tangerine, but it turns into something complex, rising to an ethereal plane. Here texture and flavor integrate into something greater than the sum of its parts, earth, truffle, toast, honey, air, gravel, chalk, rocks, saline. Each one is different, but united by a wholesome sense of place.

The non-vintage St. Anne, one of only blends he makes, is just a joy to drink, a reflection of the top wines, but with more joie de vivre.

His rosé always brings to mind chocolate chip cookies and home. 

Wines on Offer |

Chartogne-Taillet, Champagne Cuvée Ste.-Anne Brut, NV $69.99 $61.59
"The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is an absolutely stunning Champagne for its complexity, value and soulfulness. Rich and creamy on the palate, with tons of resonance, the Cuvée Ste.-Anne is absolutely impeccable. Dried orchard fruit, spice, pastry, baked apple tart and lemon confit all infuse the Cuvée Ste.-Anne with striking complexity and depth. I can’t think of too many Champagnes that deliver this level of quality for the money. Not surprisingly, I have seen it offered by the glass in a number of top restaurants around the world. Alexandre Chartogne does a fabulous job with this cuvée. Don’t miss it." – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Chartogne-Taillet, Champagne Le Rosé Brut, NV $82.99 $73.03
"The NV (2019) Brut Le Rosé is a very pretty, ethereal wine. Crushed red berry fruit, spice, dried rose petal and cedar lend notable aromatic presence. The Rosé is decidedly understated and gracious in this release. I would prefer to drink it sooner rather than later. 90pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

“...an absolutely fabulous set of wines from Arnaud Margaine. More than anything else, what I admire most about these wines is a level of textural purity and finesse in the mousse that places them in the top tier of Champagne, whether grower or grande marque.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

“The wines are long on character and personality.” -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

People |

• Arnaud Margaine

• Karine Margaine

Focus |

Chardonnay-specialists in Pinot-land. These are beautiful, creamy, unique with plenty of finesse and approachability. For now and for cellaring.

Country |

France

(By Archimatth - File:Vignobles_France.svg, CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37093378)

Region |

Champagne

Sub-Region |

Montagne de Reims

Village |

• Villers-Marmery
• Verzy

Vineyards |

6.5 hectares

Climate |

Cold Continental

• This was the northern edge of viticulture until recent decades
• 2nd most northern grape growing region in France, after Alsace, but much less sunshine and more rain.
• Harsh cold winters
• Short hot summers
• Very wet climate, although drought has been an issue in recent vintages because of climate change
• Rain in summer, snow in winter
• Viticulture is possible because of long, (hopefully) dry, temperate autumns to extend the growing season.
• Because ripeness was a struggle, grapes are usually grown for white wine, or in the last 150 years, sparkling wines.
• Cool climate red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate, but the vast majority are destined for white or rosé sparkling wines.
• Wines are going to be high in acidity, light in body, low in alcohol, and often need extended aging of 18 months or more to temper the high acidity.
• Sugar is often added to wines at the end, called dosage, to help balance the high acidities from cold climate grapes.

Grape Varieties |

• Chardonnay, 90%
• A special clone found here and nowhere else
• Average 35 years old
• Adds finesse and freshness
• Often a signature lemon meringue pie flavor profile.
• If handled reductively, can impart white flower, ginger, green apple, quince and other primary flavors
• Oxidative or aged examples can be full of brioche, kernel, honey and truffle
• Does best in east facing sites with little to no top soil on chalk and other limestones

• Pinot Noir, 10%
• From small plot in Verzy
• Critical for structure and body, more powerful than the other two grapes
• Fruit profile can include red apple, strawberry, apricot, and peach
• Savory notes of spices, stones, rose petal and violet
• Almost always the grape used for rosé Champagne
• Shows best in on south facing sites with clay over chalk

Farming |

Sustainable

• Self described as pragmatic
• 90% of vineyards are farmed without herbicides
• Mainly copper and sulfur applied
• Will intervene with synthetic sprays when weather conditions require it.
• Soil and grass work have been reintroduced to reinvigorate and enliven the soil

Cellar Work |

Traditional

• Always experimenting with new methods
• Less and less malolactic fermentation is employed. Not just because of the lowering of malic acidity, but because the fruit doesn’t remain as fresh.
• They keep extensive stocks of reserve wines, rare for a grower, which allows them to make more complex blends.
• NV is often up to 50% reserve wine.
• Some wine is fermented in oak barrels.

About the winery |

Established in the 1920’s.

Members of the Club Trésors de Champagne or “Special Club” since 1976. They were the first winegrowers association advocating a very qualitative approach to viticulture . It is above all the reflection of a human adventure…

4th generation wine growers, currently being run by Arnaud and his daughter Karine. Arnaud’s generation was dedicated to raising the quality of the wines and the influence of his daughter has raised the quality of the winegrowing. Together they make a formidable pair.

One of the best things about the Margaine’s is their ability to constantly look at their work, tweak it, and make it better. No recipe is followed with the dictates of each vintage being followed and changes implemented when necessary. No other wine has benefited from this approach so much as their rosé, now of the very best in Champagne.

What do the wines taste like?

Creamy and textural, easy to drink, delightful. The reserve wine sees the benefit of up to 50% reserve wine, going back 7 or 8 years and a mix of fermentation vessels. The L’Extra Brut is not just a lower dosage of the Le Brut, but another blend entirely and ages for a whopping 6 years to allow those harsh edges time to round out and give extra depth.

The vintage Blanc de Blanc wine is always one of the better values in the region as these wines have not garnered the attention of the cognoscenti while always being a sure bet. It ages for up to 10 years and in top vintages is always a favorite. Their Special Club bottling is from the oldest and best plots for a rarified bottle of finesse.

Their rosé as mentioned above is another absolute winner. Textural, without being tanninc, flavorful, without being fruity, but demonstrating the power of Pinot Noir when blended masterfully with their excellent Chardonnay.

Their Demi-sec and Ratafia are treasures of Champagne from a forgotten time. The family is committed to carrying on traditions even if popularity of certain styles has waned.

Wines on Offer |

A Margaine, Champagne Cuvée Le Brut, NV $56.99 $50.15
A Margaine, Champagne Cuvée Le Brut, NV (375ml) $35.99 $31.67
A Margaine, Champagne Cuvée Le Brut, NV (1.5L) $139.99 $123.19
"The first wine in the range from A. Margaine, the NV Champagne Cuvee Le Brut is 88% Chardonnay and the remainder Pinot Noir, with 55% from the 2019 vintage. A supple wine with a delicate perfume of white flowers, pastry dough, almond, and green apple, the palate is medium-bodied and clean, with pure pear fruit, lime candy, and a lifted finish. A lovely and refreshing aperitif style that is enjoyable now, it is also a great value. Drink 2022-2030. 90pts" -- Jed Dunnuck 

A Margaine, Champagne Cuvée Le Demi-Sec, NV $56.99 $50.15
A Margaine, Champagne Cuvée Le Demi-Sec, NV (375ml) $35.99 $31.67
"The NV Cuvee Le Demi-Sec is absolutely gorgeous, as it so often is. Lemon drop, white flowers and baked apple tart are nicely amplified by the 18 grams of residual sugar. Demi-Sec is a bit of a lost art these days; few do it better than Margaine. This release is 88% Chardonnay and 12% Pinot Noir, based on 2019, with reserve wines from 2018, 2017, 2014 and 2013. Dosage is 32 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2022." -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

A Margaine, Champagne Rosé Brut, NV $64.99 $57.19
A Margaine, Champagne Rosé Brut, NV (375ml) $49.99 $43.99
"The NV Brut Le Rosé is delicious. Creamy and nicely layered, the Rosé offers notable depth while remaining very much in the Margaine style. Crushed red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, white pepper and chalk lend notable vibrancy throughout, while bright acids perk up the finish. The blend is 67% Chardonnay and 33% Pinot Noir (including 10% still wine). Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2022. 90pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

A Margaine, Champagne Extra Brut, NV $67.99 $59.83
"The NV Extra Brut is another pretty, gracious wine in the Margaine range. Crushed rocks, lemon peel and white flowers are all nicely delineated in this vibrant, light to medium-bodied Champagne. A touch of oak influence comes through in the wine's volume, but blocked malolactic fermentation keeps things bright. Drink this over the next few years. Dosage is 3-5 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2022. 89pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

A Margaine, Champagne Cuvée le Caractère M, NV $86.99 $76.55
"Disgorged in May 2019 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, the NV Extra-Brut Cuvée M Le Caractère is based on the 2013 vintage and drawn from a solera started in 2002. Offering up delicate aromas of white flowers, walnuts, crisp green apple, fenugreek and nougat, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and incisive, with a delicate mousse and a sapid finish. 93pts" -- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

A Margaine, Champagne Rosé de Saignée Brut, 2014 $86.99 $76.55

A Margaine, Champagne Spécial Club Brut, 2015 $114.99 $101.19
A Margaine, Champagne Spécial Club Brut, 2014 $114.99 $101.19
"The 2014 Brut Special Club is a powerful, dense wine. It offers plenty of the signature Margaine energy, but with a touch more mid-palate presence than most of the wines in this range, the result of 66 months on the lees. It's a style that is quite appealing. Drier pear, lemon confit, spice, mint and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that build in the glass. This is a terrific showing. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2022. 94pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media 

A Margaine, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, 2014 (1.5L) $190.00 $167.20
A Margaine, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, 2013 (1.5L) $190.00 $167.20
"The 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs, tasted from magnum, is airy, bright and wonderfully vibrant. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, focused Champagnes. Crushed rocks, mint, white pepper and bright saline notes lead into the sculpted finish. The Blanc de Blancs is attractive, but it is also on the lighter side for the year. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2022. 91pts" -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Kruger-Rumpf

People |

Brother Georg and Philipp Rumpf, along with Georg’s wife Julia and his mother.

Focus |

Rieslings with plenty of Nahe fruit, but balanced and built for aging

Country |

Germany

Region |

Nahe

Village |

Münster-Sarmsheim

Climate |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Until climate change this was the very northern edge of where grapes could ripen fully, but only about 7 out of 10 years.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, and autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• The unpredictability of the weather is what makes wines especially vintage sensitive and creates havoc (and high costs!) for winemakers.
• Nahe is a little warmer on average than the Mosel and cooler than most of the other wine regions in Germany. There are some very warm vineyard sites, giving an almost mediterranean feel, but also with a few cooler, almost Saar-like areas as well. 
• Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
• Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
• Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
• Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines
• 2022 is an enigma. It was hot and very dry for most of the growing season, but rain and long cold fall ended up giving us wines that taste more like “classic” cool-climate wines than rich, ripe wines.

Vineyards |

40 hectares of vines in the most northern part of the Nahe, along with a site right next door in the Rheinhessen

• Münsterer Dautenpflänzer: Grand Cru amphitheater, south facing, and their older section is steep. Loess, subsoil is quartz – Daute means “shoot” and pflänzer means “plant”, an homage to the fact that this was once a nursery. The warmest location in the Nahe. They have some Riesling but also 50 year old vines of Scheurebe here.
• Münsterer im Pitterberg: A monopoly of 1.5 ha on blue slate at a 45-60% incline with 70 year old Riesling vines.

• Münsterer Pitterberg: Erste Lage (1er Cru) with Devonian weathered grey slate, a 30-60% steep incline and south-west facing site. They own 9 of the 10 ha with vines up to 70 years old. Thi is where Stefan’s favorite wine comes from.
• Münsterer Rheinberg: Weathered quartzite and sandy loam, south-east facing, 20 - 65% steep gradient, with richer soils in the lower sections.
• Münsterer Kapellenberg: Quartz, red shale and loess, south, south-east facing, 10 - 55% with several of their sections being very steep. Similar to Rheinberg where the lower sections have richer soils.
• Binger Scharlachberg Rheinhessen: Grand Cru, Quartz and red sandstone/red slate – The name means scarlet hill, planted in terraced sections rather than straight slopes. Just across the Nahe to the east of Münster, this vineyard is technically in the Rhienhessen in its far northwest boundary.

• Bingerbrücker Abtei im Ruppertsberg: a Erste Lage site, but one of their prized possessions with vines from 1937. Phyllite, which is essentially mica slate – south facing very steep, 80% incline hillside. Abtei means abbey and this vineyard belonged to the abbey at Bingen, home to Hildegard vom Bingen. Most northern vineyard in the Nahe.

• Dorsheimer Burgberg: Grand Cru, Volcanic Permian era conglomerate, and quartz – quite steep (30-60%) in Dorsheim, one village south of Münster. Very excellent wines from this tiny vineyard.

Grape Varieties |

61% Riesling

• The King of White Grapes. 
• High acid, semi aromatic
• A huge variation in style potential from very light and dry, sparkling to the most unctuously sweet wines on the planet. 
• Divisive for its high acidity and sugar retaining capabilities
• Perfect in its dynamic nature, ability to transmit the slightest nuance of terroir and being capable of aging for hundreds of years. 

15% Pinot Blanc / Weissburgunder

• A white skinned mutation of Pinot Noir
• The secret weapon of the Teutonics. They make the best versions of this grape, and they don’t share them.
• Germany is now the world’s leading producer of Pinot Blanc
• pale to straw yellow in color, and delicate on the nose. A slightly nutlike aroma is typical. Vinified dry, its medium to full body and fine acidity complement many types of food.
• Good examples age very well, although generally made with the aim of everyday fresh and dry wines in mind. Even these seemingly innocuous wines have the ability to age over decades..

13% Pinot Gris / Grauburgunder

• A pink-skinned genetic mutation of Pinot Noir.
• Likely introduced from across the border in nearby Alsace by Cistercian monks. 
• Takes on many styles in Germany. 
• The country is the world’s third-largest producer of the grape.
• Typically dry and can range from light and fresh to rich and oak-aged. 
• Most of the time, these wines are more concentrated and flavorful than Pinot Grigio of Italy, with notes of apple, pear, and nuts.
• Because of its pink skins, Pinot Gris also makes delicious orange wines. 

6% Pinot Noir / Spätburgunder

• German Pinot Noir wines are vinified as dry red wines with complex cherry aroma with subtle hints of smoke and almond, slight tannins, and high acidity, with a long finish.
• Had a poor reputation thanks to high yielding, work-horse, clonal material.
• Now Burgundy clones dominate vineyards for the best producers showcasing this incredible variety's true potential

Scheurebe

• A crossing of Riesling and Bukettrebe (until 2012 thought to be Silvaner)
• Scheurebe was created by Georg Scheu in 1916.
• Though it was first bred in the Rheinhessen, it quickly became a favorite across the country when it was released to the public in the middle of the 20th century.
• Regions: Most of Scheurebe’s plantings are still in the Rheinhessen, though it’s also grown in the Pfalz, Nahe, and Franken.
• Styles: Initially bred to be an aromatic variety, Scheurebe is known for its pronounced, fruity aromas.
• It has fresh acidity and is often made as a lusciously sweet wine, though dry versions are becoming more common.

5% Other Grapes

Farming |

Practicing Organic

• Working towards certification
• Sheep graze in the vineyards
• They make their own compost
• Green spaces around their vineyards

Cellar Work |

Traditional and Conventional

• Mostly spontaneous fermentation
• Will use inoculated yeast to finish to dryness if necessary
• Both stainless steel and large, old, neutral barrel are employed
• GG’s are direct pressed and stay on full lees until 1 week before bottling
• Then a quick filter, rest again and bottled

About the winery |

200 years in the north of Nahe and a family committed to excellence have allowed them to slowly acquire a wealth of great vineyards to work with. Georg is now at the helm of viticulture and winemaking, but it was his father who committed to organic farming after an agricultural class in 2013.

Philipp, Georg’s brother who also graduated from Geisenheim, is focused on wine economics. Georg’s wife Julia helps him in all tasks around the winery. His mother runs a great restaurant next door, where the food and hospitality pair perfectly with the wines of the estate. 

Humble beginnings have led them on a steady march towards pure, terroir driven wines in their little corner of the Nahe. As friends and neighbors of Dönnhoff, they knew they had to find their own place in the hearts of Riesling lovers, and so they focused their attention on value; these are good wines at great prices. Gradually brothers George & Philipp have elevated these wines to a level far exceeding their fair asking price.

What do the wines taste like?

Fruity, delicious, joyous wines that show off the sunshine from the far north of the Nahe.

While these had a reputation for being mostly sweet, and a bit clunky, the last 5 years has seen a great reckoning of style. The sweet wines have residual sugar levels some 40 grams per liter lower than those a decade ago. Dry wines are focused on minerality and ageability. 

Much of this has to do with the quality of the site, as organic practices have allowed for later ripening and more phenolic development. Also the higher elevation vineyards are now the focus, bringing more freshness and levity into these already scrumptious bottles of wine.

Wines on Offer |

Kruger-Rumpf, Kapellenberg Erstes Gewächs Trocken, 2022 $35.99 $31.67

Kruger-Rumpf, Pinot Blanc Estate Trocken, 2022 $25.99 $22.87

Kruger-Rumpf, Pinot Brut Rosé, NV $30.99 $27.27

Kruger-Rumpf, Pinot Noir Rosé EstateTrocken, 2022 $20.99 $18.47

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Abtei 1937 Erstes Gewächs Trocken, 2022 $44.99 $39.59

 First vintage was five years ago and it's been one of my favorites in the line up ever since. Abtei is a vineyard that belonged to the abbey and is the most northern vineyard of the Nahe, on a south facing parcel with the Rhein river and the Rheingau right behind its crest. Planted in 1937 the wines just have the mix of levity and concentration only found in really old vines. Picked in September in an old stückfass of 1200 L. Special phyllite soils for a unique minerality plus lots of slate with layers of quartzite. The site gets much cooler air at night, than the other northern Nahe vineyards, which comes down from the Mosel. Yummy, yummy cool fruit and acid, some white and a dash of yellow peach, mineral, elegant, evaporates on your palate with just enough texture to remind you it's there. Tiny production.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Burgberg Grosses Gewächs, 2022 $64.99 $57.19

 Deep concentration but a nice elegance, rich and spicy, offset by a steely, lean core, then all wrapped up in perfectly ripe fruit spanning from white orange pith to peaches to. Very dry finish. Only 3 g/l residual sugar, very regal, bitter and smoky in a good way. Tiny grapes = more concentration.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Dautenpflänzer Grosses Gewächs, 2022 $48.99 $43.11

 An example of how the hot 2022 vintage behaved like a cool vintage. Lower yields than normal, and they were having to wait it out to get adequate ripeness. Normally they pick at a potential alcohol of 15%, but they had to wait until the end of October for only a potential alcohol of 12%, meaning loads of physiological ripeness, without heavy sugar weights. The opposite of a power house GG, elegant, delicate, mineral, very fresh, open and simply charming.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Dautenpflänzer Im Langenberg Feinherb, 2021 $54.99 $48.39

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Estate, 2022 $21.99 $19.35

 Sourced from 2 vineyards, as a pre-selection of 1er Cru sites and younger 10 to 20 year old vines, same as the dry wine. From a few stainless steel tanks where the fermentation decides to stop between 20 to 40 g/l residual sugar. (Weirdly the GG and 1er Cru wines want to finish to dryness, nutrition from older vines maybe?). They cool down some of the tanks to use as dosage for sparkling wine. This is just delicious Nahe peach juice, 15 to 16 g/l residual sugar in the finished wine, totally slurpable, lovely acid, orange, dash of lime skin.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling EstateTrocken, 2022 $21.99 $19.35

 Fuzzy peach juice, almost Rheingau-like (not surprising, it's a stone's throw away). Ripe and vibrant, fresh spritz, tart, supple, delicious, sweetie finish, never bone dry. 5 to 6 g/l residual sugar, quartzsite and slate vineyards, usually the same 2, fermented and aged in 80% stainless steel and 20% neutral barrels.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Im Pitterberg Grosses Gewächs, 2022 $52.99 $46.63

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Im Pitterberg Grosses Gewächs, 2022 (375ml) $32.99 $29.03

 9 hectares of blue Devonian slate with a lot of minerality, fruity. A touch disjointed at this early stage with lots of phenolics, but the underpinning of a lot of slate. Give it time.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Spätlese, 2022 $27.99 $24.63

 ★★★ Very hard to make Spätlese in 2022 and could only do with the right site, from old vines (these were planted in the 50s), with low yields. This was picked at 94 to 90 Oschle, which used to be the Kabinett level but the last few years they’ve pulled back to more “classic” expressions of the Prädikat, rather than 100 point Parker wines. 100% in old barrels, 65 to 70 g/l residual sugar, whole cluster pressing for a very silky mouthfeel. Smells really great, like the Mosel, fresh, clear, licorice. Excellent, one of the leanest Spätlese I've had this trip, from the Nahe no less.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Münsterer Im Pitterberg Kabinett, 2022 $27.99 $24.63

 ★★★★ Kabi for Papi. Started making this in 2018. Less than 40 g/l residual sugar. Grand Cru slate heavy site, planted in 60s and 70s, fermented and aged in all neutral barrels. Subtle nose of white flower, orange peel, light spice, sunshine, wildflower bouquet, yummy and delicate. A real Kabinett 7.5% abv and crazy value.

Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling Münsterer Rheinberg Kabinett, 2021 $23.99 $21.11

 Sweetie, delicious Orangina, a bit heavier than the others and could use a kick of levity. Sourced from an east facing, cooler site with a mix of quartzite and slate vineyards and fermented and aged in 60% stainless steel 40% barrels. Less than 40 g/l residual sugar which is about 20 g RS less than five years ago. They’ve reverted back to a more classical styling of Kabinett rather than the punchy Parker years.

Kruger-Rumpf, Scheurebe Kabinett, 2022 $26.99 $23.75

 When Grandpa took over vineyards in the 50s, Grandma loved Scheurebe and said it must be planted in the Grand Cru sites for the best version. Made in a riesling style, slightly soapy, fresh, acid, tropical, loud and charming. Can age for decades, please cellar at least 10 years.

​​

Schloss Gobelsburg

People |

Michael & Eva Moosbrugger

Focus |

Grüner Veltliner & Riesling which shows character, authenticity and the individuality of each site and style

. 

Country |

Austria

Region |

Kamptal

Village |

Langenlois

Climate |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• Kamptal is cooled by air coming down from the north, especially the valley’s and surrounding forest. But warmth comes in the form of hot eastern gusts, helping to ripen the grapes and keep disease at bay.
• There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
• Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
• Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
• Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
• Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.

Vineyards |

• Heiligenstein: Most famous site in Kamptal and one of the great vineyards of Austria. This terraced hill is an outcropping of 270 million year old unique formation of red sandstone and conglomerate with volcanic permian rocks. Superb Riesling is to be found here. Some plots are up to 60 years old.

• Gaisberg: Zoibing Village. The easternmost end of the Gföhler Gneiss plate that runs under the Kamptal, soils are made up of slatey para-gneiss, mica-schist, and amphibolite (metamorphic rocks formed from intense heat and pressure). Some of the Riesling terraces are the oldest vineyards in the winery’s possession.

• Kammerner Renner: Deep loess soils with eroded gneiss, mica and amphibolite from the Gaisberg vineyard above.

• Lamm: Kammerman Village. Southeast of the Heiligenstein vineyard is the Ried Lamm. The deep loess-loam formation is interspersed with volcanic rock with a distinctive silt component. Grüner Veltliner finds ideal conditions on these deep, south-facing loess-loam terraces, to produce a particularly complex and expressive wine.

Grape Varieties |

• Grüner Veltliner: 
• A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over. 
• Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area. 
• Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles). 
• Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on. 
• Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.

• Riesling
• The King of White Grapes
• You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
• What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality. 
• The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades. 
• They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. 
• Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.

• Zweigelt
• a crossing of Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent
• The most widely planted red grape in Austria 
• Capable of making oak aged, opulent wines
• Best suited for early consumption. 
• It is almost always violet in color with notes of cherry and raspberry, pepper and pleasingly mouth watering sweet tarts. The crunchy acidity lends way to easily navigated tannins. 
• Some carbonic styles have the joie de vivre of Beaujolais. 
• Sparkling wines made in a pet-nat style are increasingly popular and as an everyday pizza pairer it’s hard to beat.

• Sankt Laurent
• Long thought to be a relative of Pinot Noir for its similar body and aromatics, Sankt Laurent is now known to be an unrelated and indigenous variety. 
• It’s mainly grown in Burgenland and Thermenregion
• Makes for pretty, delicate wines, sometimes oak aged, with soft tannin.
• Never accumulates a lot of sugar, meaning it's always going to be light in body with low alcohol. 
• Pinot Noir
• Brought by the same Cistearcian monks with the rest of the Burgundy varieties
• Burgenland and Thermenregion. 
• There are beautiful examples especially on limestone soils with careful winemaking

Farming |

Organic

• Practicing since 1958

Cellar Work |

Traditional

• Dynamic Cellar Concept
• Wines are not pumped from one location to another
• They are moved in barrels on wheels from one part of the cellar to another.
• Barrels are all made from oak from Manhartsberg, north of Langenlois
• They believe that the future is wine of individuality and character, rather than uniformity.
• The only way to achieve this is with fewer machines.
• Oldest part of the cellar is from the 11th century
• “Tradition” series of wines produced based off of texts from monks 150 years ago. Very reductive, in wood for long aging.

About the winery |

A Cistercian monastic estate founded in 1171 (!!!), Schloss Gobelsburg is one of the largest holders of local “Grand Cru” terroirs: Heiligenstein, Gaisberg, Lamm, Renner, and Grub. When you mix all that tradition and terroir with top-notch winemaking you get brilliant, age-worthy wines of complexity and depth.

Eva and Michael Moosbrugger were granted the winemaking and viticultural contract in 1996, and with the help and guidance of Michael’s mentor, Willi Bründlmayer, the winery has regained its prestige and is considered to be a leader in quality and innovation.

What do the wines taste like?

Honest clean wines. Lively, with nice fruit but it plays background to the earthier elements. These are wines of serenity and peace. They taste like they are made by patient hands and require an open patient mind. That is not to say they aren’t easy to drink, but there are layers just under the surface if you give them a little extra attention.

Wines on Offer |

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Kamptal DAC, 2022 $23.99 $21.11

"This is vibrant, peachy and wow, a great hit of acidity driving through the finish. It’s bright, effusive, open, the second half of the wine is all about minerality." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Cistercien Rosé, 2022 $20.99 $18.47

Schloss Gobelsburg, Zweigelt Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg, 2021 $21.99 $19.35

Schloss Gobelsburg, Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV $54.99 $48.39

“Based on the 2017 vintage and dosed as brut in March 2020, the NV Blanc de Blancs is a cuvée of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Welschriesling, all fermented in 5,000-liter oak vats. The intensely yellow-colored wine offers a very rich and intense nose of ripe fruits with buttercup, grassy and flinty notes, from a bigger glass with more refreshing citrus and intense brioche aromas. Fresh on the palate, this is an elegant, stunningly pure and stimulating sparkling wine that is less opulent than the nose. The wine is vital and lemony on the finish, revealing a firm structure and fine grip. Tasted at Schloss Gobelsburg in June 2021. 93 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Brut Reserve, NV $48.99 $43.11

Schloss Gobelsburg, Brut Reserve, NV (1.5L) $89.99 $79.19

“The NV Brut Reserve (disgorged in May 2021) is based on the 2016 vintage and includes 50% Grüner Veltliner, 20% Zweigelt and 30% Welschriesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Vinified in stainless steel and disgorged after four years with a dosage of seven grams per liter, the vividly yellow-colored wine offers an intense yet elegant, refined and floral bouquet of ripe and nutty-scented fruit intermixed with fresh bread notes. Mouthfilling, round and juicy on the palate, with remarkable finesse and a highly delicate finish, this is a round, fruity and perfectly balanced sparkling wine based on grapes from the Kamptal. Tasted at Schloss Gobelsburg in June 2021. 92 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Brut Rosé, NV $52.99 $46.63

“Based on the 2017 vintage and disgorged in July 2020 (07/20), the NV Brut Rosé is a pale salmon colored blend of 65% Zweigelt and 35% Pinot Noir, both fermented in large oak vats, with malolactic fermentation done in stainless steel. The wine shows the highly delicate bouquet of a matured wine and reveals a vinous character with very fine red berry and sweet cherry aromas along with notes of brioche, herbs (oregano, marjoram), flint and refreshing lemon aromas. Beautifully light, fine and tender on the palate, this is an intense, round and perfectly balanced and vinous rosé with a delicate grip on the finish. 11.5% alcohol. Tasted at Schloss Gobelsburg in June 2021. 92 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburg Kamptal DAC, 2022 $27.99 $24.63

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburg Kamptal DAC, 2022 (375ml) $20.99 $18.47

"Connected to the fact that we are now getting defined designations for villages – this is excellent, more direct and not at all tropical, sandy structures, pebbles and on the top of the hill you have rocks, which means the top of this plateau will be red wine. Low cover of loess, 10-30cm, below you have all of the alluvial sedimentations. This feels cooler structured and less overtly ripe than Steinsetz, which can be more ripe, leaning to tropical in some vintages. Will be under screwcap and the Freiheit, Reidling, vineyard on the south slope is Gebling, Kirchengarten. I really like this little wine." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Lamm 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $84.99 $74.79

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Lamm 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (375ml) $44.99 $39.59

"This doesn’t have the overt character of Grub, it is a little more mysterious and a bit more shadowed, the wine is ripe, it is bigger in structure but also deeper and a bit more intense. While the acidity doesn’t feel more pronounced, or indeed as present as it does in Renner, it is again bringing a huge amount of lift to the wines. More coiled and lying in wait and has just an intense length. This is the best vintage I have tasted of this wine since 2013, but a bit less primary." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Langenlois Kamptal DAC, 2022 $36.99 $32.55

"This is richer, more loess based, with broader shoulders and the fruit feels riper with a more peppery touch than Gobelsburg. Under cork. This really makes sense and the dynamic of the wines is very interesting – more movement and layers than the Gobelsburg village wine with a warmer-hearted structure." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Renner 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $56.99 $50.15

"This is a classic vintage of this wine, ripe, but with a great mineral touch, finished with an uplifting freshness. This is a bit more direct and not angular but more in that direction. It has the mineral flourishes, but so much freshness, this is a wine of pure pleasure and depth. The fruit character is almost Riesling-like in this vintage." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Kamptal DAC, 2022 $21.99 $19.35

"This is delicious, classic and has good acidity, and feels very fresh. A bit of a pepper-y hit here. Orchard fruits pear, apple rather than stone fruits. The kind of seamless drinkability that we expect from this wine." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner Steinsetz Kamptal DAC, 2021 $32.99 $29.03

“The 2021 Ried Steinsetz Kamptal offers a very clear, fresh and elegant, spicy and even flinty bouquet of white fruits and crushed stones. Round and dense on the palate, this is a medium to full-bodied, lush and elegant Grüner Veltliner with intense fruit and a mild texture. The acidity is ripe and elegant and combines with fine phenolic grip on the finish. Pretty intense and with good length. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. 92 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Pinot Noir Reserve, 2019 $64.99 $57.19

“Fermented with 30% whole clusters and 70% uncrushed berries, the 2019 Pinot Noir Reserve is pure, intense and very elegant on the deep, dense and finely toasty nose that reveals discreet nougat aromas. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, intense and elegant, aromatic but also structured Pinot Noir with a silky-elegant texture, fine tannins and crystalline acidity. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. 93 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Gaisberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $54.99 $48.39

"This has more depth than zobing, quite open actually and has a little bit more this kind of creaminess but not in a weighing down kind of way, it’s as if the fruit was dipped sheen of sweetness, making it more concentrated and riper. This has more overt ripeness than Zobing village wine at the moment, but it also has a bit more of this kind of flow and narrative arc. The arc is higher – this feels more sweet fruited than past vintages dashing the theory of longer lees and aging in the cellar." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $79.99 $70.39

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (375ml) $44.99 $39.59

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (1.5L) $154.99 $136.39

 "that has this aroma that Terry always calls “haunting” it’s like the essence of fruit passed through a mineral wall. The 2019 felt bigger and broader, more powerful, but this actually feels deeper and more balanced, this is just a wonderful iteration of this wine and the most profound since the monumental 2019 vintage." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Zöbing Kamptal DAC, 2021 $34.99 $30.79

“Gobelsburg's 2021 Zöbing Kamptal Riesling offers a clear, beautifully intense and spicy bouquet intermingling ripe and well-concentrated fruit with flinty aromas of crushed stones. Lush and savory on the palate, this is a light but grippy and tensioned Riesling with a precise, well-structured and persistently aromatic finish. Excellent. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. 91 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Tradition 10 Years Edition 851, NV $169.99 $149.59

Schloss Gobelsburg, Tradition 10 Years Edition 851, NV (1.5L) $350.00 $308.00

"This feels a bit tighter and a bit more influence from oak, it feels a tighter band of flavor, more controlled and more intense. This is excellent and again, resonant. This is the grown-up older brother to the softer, more baby 3 year. Much to like here." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg, Tradition 3 Years Edition 851, NV $59.99 $52.79

Schloss Gobelsburg, Tradition 3 Years Edition 851, NV (1.5L) $114.99 $101.19

“Based on Gaisberg Riesling and Renner Grüner Veltliner, the NV Tradition Heritage Cuvée 3 Years Edition 851 combines the vintages 2019 and 2017. Deep, intense and very elegant on the nose, with ripe but fine fruit aromas, this is a full-bodied, textured, very elegant and balanced white wine with lots of Veltliner features. The wine has ripe and elegant acidity but reveals fine and grippy tannins on the intensely aromatic finish. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. To be released in mid-autumn. 93 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Schloss Gobelsburg, Vintage RD Brut Reserve, 2008 $114.99 $101.19

"Creamy, lemony chalkiness on the nose promises a serious wine, with some age. The slender palate comes in with tiny bubbles of creamy foam, dancing against a yeasty, chalky, stony backdrop. They release notions of lemon and honey, contradictory notions that create drama, richness and freshness. The finish is creamy, intense with chalkiness, long and dry. 93 pts"" — Anne Krebiehl MW

Schloss Gobelsburg, Vintage RD Extra Brut Reserve, 2010 $119.99 $105.59

Schloss Gobelsburg, Vintage RD Extra Brut Reserve, 2012 $134.99 $118.79

 ""a bit or reduction, DP like, this is very dry not quite as harmonious and there are edges of the maturing flavors. This is good.""

Prieler

People |

Georg Prieler

Focus |

Wines from Indigenous Blaufränkisch as well as Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, Burgundian varietals, which have a centuries long history in the region. From the entry level to the top single vineyards they each show depth, finesse and age worthiness.

Country |

Austria

Region |

Burgenland

Village |

Schützen

Climate |

Moderate Continental 

• Clearly delineated seasons, hot summers, cold winters.
• Each region in Austria is characterized by its proximity to the two competing cold and hot weather patterns.
• South from the Danube, in Burgenland they face the Pannonian plain and the full brunt of its warm westerly winds. 
• This heat is what allows red grapes to ripen at such a northerly latitude 
• Northern Burgenland gets 2,000 hours of sunshine annually, which makes it the sunniest region in all of central Europe, 
• Below average rainfall. 
• There is a cross over from primarily white wine country into red wine country
• The northern tip, at the Slovakian border, gets a touch of cooling influence of north wind from across the Weinviertel
• The southern Eisenberg region is the coolest from air flowing down the eastern Alps.
• Temperatures decrease the higher in elevation you go, so vineyards on mountains and even hillsides retain more acidity. 
• Old forests encroach on vineyards and act as temperature regulators, cooling things down, offering shade and buffering winds from both the alps and the pannonian plain. 

Vineyards |

20 ha

• Seeberg: Limestone dotted with fossils, planed to Pinot Blanc
• Haidsatz: “a layer of limestone over a slab of schist” planted to Pinot Blanc
• Marienthal: Calcareous sand and limestone over deep chalk, planted to Blaufränkisch
• Goldberg: Mica-schist soils planted to Blaufränkisch

Grape Varieties |

• Blaufränkisch
• An indigenous grape 
• Can make wines that are both distinctive but also that have the ineffable feel of true classic
• Naturally high acidity with medium plus to high tannins, balanced by concentrated fruit
• excellent aging potential, but very approachable in youth. 
• A Chinese five spice note is typical
• Fruit and structure are dictated by its soil types: typically red on limestone, black on slate, blue on schist.
• Like Pinot Noir, Blaufränkisch is not an especially easy grape to grow
• Needs proper site selection and knowledgeable winemakers to tame its acidity and tannin. 
• Wines are often underpriced for their quality.

• Sankt Laurent
• Long thought to be a relative of Pinot Noir for its similar body and aromatics, Sankt Laurent is now known to be an unrelated and indigenous variety. 
• It’s mainly grown in Burgenland and Thermenregion
• Makes for pretty, delicate wines, sometimes oak aged, with soft tannin.
• Never accumulates a lot of sugar, meaning it's always going to be light in body with low alcohol. 
• Pinot Blanc / Weissburgunder
• the secret weapon Austrian whites. 
• It was brought over with the Cisterian monks in the 10th century and is grown in small pockets in all the wine regions. 
• Similar to Chardonnay, but with softer flavors and acidity. 
• Makes great simple quaffing wines. But grown in the best plots it makes some of the most surprisingly concentrated and long lived wines in the country. 
• It’s not exported often so bottles are hard to find outside of Austria, but not to be missed if you can lay your hands on one.

• Chardonnay 
• Another grape brought over by the Cistercian monks so it’s had a long time to make a home for itself. 
• Grown across the country, it is made in styles that range from light, unoaked, and Chablisienne to big, broad and toasty. 
• There are some beautiful examples in Burgenland, Vienna, Lower Austria and especially the Steiermark.

Farming |

Organic

• Prune rigorously
• Plant cover crops
• Meticulous attention is paid to canopy management as their region receives so much sunlight
• Multiple, careful selections during harvest
• Goal is to balance alcohol while still achieving physiological ripeness

Cellar Work |

Traditional - Low Intervention

• Grapes are carefully crushed
• Spontaneous fermentation
• Fermented at closely controlled temperatures 
• Fermented and aged in steel tanks or wooden casks, large and small 
• The character of the variety and the vineyard determines where the wine will mature. 

About the winery |

The Prielers have been farmers in the Leithagebirge region for 200 years. But it was Georgs grandfather who decided to bottle the grapes into wine first, while also maintaining a polycultural farm. Engelbert and Irmgard, Georg’s parents, decided to focus exclusively on wine starting in 1972 and immediately garnered attention for their outstanding bottles. 

Now Georg is in charge and takes his role as farmer and winemaker of his family domain very seriously. He is quick to laugh and can easily set a room at ease. He always knew he wanted to be a vintner and his hyper attention to detail keeps pushing the quality of the estate forward.

Blaufränkisch, the Burgenland's terroir-transparent grape, is the crown jewel of the estate and they make several single vineyard bottlings from the variety. But his Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, Burgundian varietals, which have a centuries long history in the region, are truly fantastic.

What do the wines taste like?

Classic, mineral, with subtle fruit. Reds have velvety refined tannins. The whites are on par with Burgundy and can age even longer. 

Entry level wines are great quaffers, tuesday night, pizza wines. 

They all balance the tightrope of artisanally crafted characterful expressions of place, and classic precision.

Wines on Offer |

Prieler, Blaufränkisch Goldberg Leithaberg DAC, 2019 $113.99 $100.31

 "Mulberry, elderberry, toasted bread crust and vanilla whispers. Refined herbal high notes accented with mint and sage. The palate is complex, compact and deep, with a supple energy and elegance. Polished tannins need only suggest a shape and the fruit concentration falls in line. Sleek tension and minerality combine with the ethereal lift to make the wine seemingly weightless. Lingering, saline finish. Exceptionally elegant with excellent potential. 17.5+" — Paula Sidore, Jancis Robinson.com

Prieler, Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC, 2019 $23.99 $21.11

"Very deep purplish crimson. Very fresh and lively. Real transparency and light tannic grip. Stony quality – a bit like a high-elevation Mendoza wine?! 16.5 pts" — Jancis Robinson, MW

Prieler, Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC, 2019 $59.99 $52.79

"Very deep purplish crimson. Very fresh and lively. Real transparency and light tannic grip. Stony quality – a bit like a high-elevation Mendoza wine?! 16.5 pts" —  Jancis Robinson, MW

Prieler, Blaufränkisch Marienthal [10 years aged at the winery], 2013 $159.99 $140.79

Prieler, Blaufränkisch Marienthal Leithaberg DAC, 2020 $119.99 $105.59

"Limestone - more cocoa and chocolate aromas, less bramble and there is more acid here and this feels like the lighter of the two. Both have excellent length, but Golberg feels like the more intense and “serious” of the two towering BFs. This is more sunny to Goldberg's cloudier, cooler structure." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Prieler, Chardonnay Schützen Sinner, 2022 $27.99 $24.63

"This is very good, nice structure and a bit cooler kind of tone, a bit more light vintage type of wine, light, white type of fruit. This was harvested first and this is where you found the character of the lighter side. 3 days on skins and the slightest bit of tannin, which I find really pleasant, feels almost like white tea." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Prieler, Gemischter Satz Kalkterrassen, 2022 $23.99 $21.11

"Planted together and pressed together is the rule. Steinweingarten, on active chalk. PB, Gelber, SB, GV and Welschriesling, reduced the yields of the aromatic varieties to get away from the aromatics. All stainless steel. This feels much more rich and ripe and much less aromatic. Much more in the pinot blanc direction than the first vintage I offered, which leaned into the more aromatic side of the varieties used – less Muscat-y." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Prieler, Pinot Blanc Leithaberg DAC, 2020 $48.99 $43.11

"This has a character like Chassagne and a kind of movement, this is very Burgundian and very long. This has just a touch reduction and is a beautiful kind of balance here. 60-90 year old vineyards and this may be the best white wine I have tasted at this address in some time. Moves from the kind of classic Burgundian flavors into a bit more wild; there are hints of herbal characters, savory, juniper, culinary herbs, but framed by ripe orchard fruits (more cox-orange than ripe pear) and lovely, firm structure." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Prieler, Pinot Blanc Schützen Ried Seeberg, 2022 $27.99 $24.63

"Three days on skins, this has more the typical PB flavor, this is very individual, with this limestone touch; mineral and open. This is something that has surprised me about this vintage – the wines, almost regardless of area, have felt very open and on display. A bit riper and rounder than the Chardonnay; Pinot Blanc is ripening in a different arc than PG or Ch, where the sugar ripeness increases more quickly than the acid is dropping. Limestone 90%, 10% Schist in this village." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Prieler, Rosé vom Stein, 2022 $23.99 $21.11

"This shows a bit more of a direct press to have a little bit more grip in the wine. This is much more in the structured side again, with the classic mineral flavor of the wine that makes it one of my favorite roses each year." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Prieler, St Laurent, 2019 $39.99 $35.19

"This has some more of the same tanning, but a bit more tannin and a very red fruited and tart kind of backbone. Really very good, more in the syrah direction than the 2020 and here the firmer structure works to support the wine." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nikolaihof

People |

Nicholas Saahs

Focus |

These are wines of the earth. They allow nature to take its course, intervene with as little as possible and allow the wines plenty of time to develop. 

Country |

Austria

​​

Region |

Wachau

Village |

Mauterne

Climate |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• Wachau is cooled by air coming down from the forest and along the Danube valley from the west. But warmth comes in from hot eastern gusts, which start to lose their power as they head down the valley. 
• The Danube also acts as an HVAC, keeping temperatures along its bank more steady than elsewhere, with reflection from the river helping ripen fruit more.
• There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
• Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
• Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
• Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
• Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.

Vineyards |

• Im Weingebirge: The oldest named vineyard site in Europe, the soil is varied with loess on the higher terraces and deep topsoil over primary rock lower down the slope.
• Vom Stein: Vom Stein is a sub-site of the Silberbichel vineyard. The soils are gneiss with mica inclusions; there is a layer of loess and topsoil.
• Steiner Hund: Primary rock with river pebbles, very stony, just outside of the Wachau borders hence the labeling of “Reserve” and not Smaragd.

Grape Varieties |

• Grüner Veltliner: 
• A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over. 
• Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area. 
• Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles). 
• Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on. 
• Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.

• Riesling
• The King of White Grapes
• You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
• What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality. 
• The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades. 
• They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. 
• Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.

• Pinot Blanc / Weissburgunder
• the secret weapon Austrian whites. 
• It was brought over with the Cisterian monks in the 10th century and is grown in small pockets in all the wine regions. 
• Similar to Chardonnay, but with softer flavors and acidity. 
• Makes great simple quaffing wines. But grown in the best plots it makes some of the most surprisingly concentrated and long lived wines in the country. 
• It’s not exported often so bottles are hard to find outside of Austria, but not to be missed if you can lay your hands on one.

• Chardonnay 
• Another grape brought over by the Cistercian monks so it’s had a long time to make a home for itself. 
• Grown across the country, it is made in styles that range from light, unoaked, and Chablisienne to big, broad and toasty. 
• There are some beautiful examples, Burgenland, Vienna, Lower Austria and especially the Steiermark.
• Muskateller / Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains 
• Muskateller is the most sought after variety from the large, ancient family of the muscat grapes. 
• Most other countries make some version of sweet wine from it, the most famous being Vendange Tardive in Alsace. But Austria makes the best dry versions with great examples from most reputable producers. 
• The overtly floral bouquet is tempered by its light body and bright acidity, making it a refreshing option on a hot summer day.

• Neuberger
• An indigenous variety
• Highly sensitive to temperature and soil types, as well as, unfortunately, disease. 
• Produces delicious wines that are spicy and floral with nutty notes after just a few years of age. 

Farming |

Biodynamic

• Stalwarts of the process.
• Practicing since 1971, one of the very first wineries in the world
• Diverse agriculture: fruits, nuts, vegetables, herbs
• Bee program

Cellar Work |

Natural

• Natural fermentations are the rule, 
• Fermented and aged in old Austrian oak vessels
• 700-year-old, deep, cold cellar. 
• Long lees contact and aging are the norms
• Some wines age as long as 15 years before being bottled.

About the winery |

Nikolaihof is one of the oldest winemaking estates in the world, dating back two millennia, give or take a couple of decades. The foundations are relics of a 63 BCE Roman fort, their cellars are ancient (Roman ruins converted to a church crypt), and in more modern terms, the estate has farmed biodynamically since 1971, making it one of the world’s oldest biodynamic wineries.

But what about the wine that comes from this historical vineyard? Even though the vines themselves aren’t ancient, they are incredibly special, grown on uniquely Wachau soils (clay, loess and paragneiss, a rock type forged by hundreds of thousands of years of pressure and heat).

Nikolaihof is an exception to a rule we’ve reiterated dozens of times: wine is made in the vineyard. Because even though they possess incredibly valuable, irreplaceable treasure in their terroir, they employ a number of fascinating practices in the cellar. Wine is aged in massive, old wooden vats for a year, or two, or five, or ten...the cellars at Nikolaihof are a true laboratory, and each vintage treated like an opportunity to tweak this technique, or that.

Now run by Nikko Saahs and his wife Anna along with his parents. They have a diverse polycultural operation along with beauty care, an inn and a fantastic restaurant. The Saahs have only been in charge for 129 years, so for them this is about stewardship. They cherish the land they farm, the 700 year old cellar they inherited and the legacy 2,000 years in the making.

What do the wines taste like?

They show a purity of fruit, the complexity of terroir and the technical mastery of the winemakers. These are terrifically minerally wines which swerve between delicate finesse and assertiveness with every sip.

Wines on Offer |

Nikolaihof, Gelber Muskateller, 2021 $44.99 $39.59

Nikolaihof, Grüner Veltliner Federspiel, 2021 $39.99 $35.19

Nikolaihof, Grüner Veltliner Federspiel, 2021 (1.5L) $97.99 $86.23

Nikolaihof, Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug, 2021 $30.99 $27.27

Nikolaihof, Grüner Veltliner Im Weingebirge Smaragd, 2019 $77.99 $68.63

Nikolaihof, Grüner Veltliner Steinterrassen, 2012 $98.99 $87.11

Nikolaihof, Grüner Veltliner Zwickl, 2021 $30.99 $27.27

Nikolaihof, Neuburger, 2021 $41.99 $36.95
 

Nikolaihof, Riesling Fass Severin Vinothek, 1997 $200.00 $176.00

Nikolaihof, Riesling Fass Severin Vinothek, 1997 (1.5L) $520.00 $457.60

“The 1997 Riesling Vinothek Severin Fass was aged for 25 years in a large, traditional oak cask (filtered, though not on the lees) and opens with an intense yet pure, fresh and spicy, finely oaky bouquet with a deep, mineral tone of crushed stones. On the palate, this is a very intense and complex Riesling slowly building up and revealing great finesse and balanced juiciness. The wine develops a sustainable, aromatic and structured finish with great finesse, lingering salinity and fine tannin grip. A fabulous, intense and elegant Riesling that is incredibly young in terms of freshness but ageless and immortal by its structure and fruit intensity. Natural cork. Tasted in June 2022. 96+” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Nikolaihof, Riesling Federspiel, 2021 $44.99 $39.59

Nikolaihof, Riesling Federspiel, 2021 (1.5L) $129.99 $114.39

Nikolaihof, Riesling Late Bottled Federspiel, 2016 $52.99 $46.63

“At 12.2% alcohol, this weighs marginally (and surprisingly) higher than did its 2015 counterpart. But you'd never guess that from the bouyancy it exhibits. Its sunny disposition, infectious juiciness and invigorating pungency - all reflecting an aromatically penetrating abundance of sage-laced lemon, orange and apricot that puts me in a bit in mind of muscat - make for a memorably delightful performance. Alkaline shimmeringly stony and mouthwateringly saline notes as well as a tang of white currant add to the irresistable appeal of a brightly and pungently sustained finish. The feel here is subtly silky, but this vibrant budle of energy and paradigm of clarity appears to be the exception among Nikolaihof 2016s for having resisted malolactic transformation. Count this among the most memorable in the long line of memorable Nikolaihof Rieslng Federspeiele and pray that even allowing for a second bottling slated for late 2017 or 2018, and despite and increasingly crowded cellar, enough will remain in cask to support and eventual Steinreisler"" bottling. 94pts" — David Schildknecht, Vinous Media

Nikolaihof, Riesling Steiner Hund, 2017 $84.99 $74.79

Nikolaihof, Riesling Vinothek, 2002 $200.00 $176.00

“From the Weingebirge and bottled in July 2018 after 16 years in oak, the 2002 Riesling Vinothek is deep and complex on the elegant and spicy nose that doesn't reveal any classic Riesling aromas but rather the coolish vintage (flood vintage"") and the long elevage in a traditional 60-hectoliter foudre. Crystalline and refined on the palate, this is an elegant, highly complex and vital yet still firm and initially even tannic and astringent wine that needs lots of patience. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in June 2021. 94+?" — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Nikolaihof, Riesling Vom Stein Smaragd, 2017 $73.99 $65.11
Nikolaihof, Riesling Vom Stein Smaragd, 2017 (1.5L) $159.99 $140.79

“The Mautern 2017 Riesling Ried Vom Stein Smaragd offers a pure, refined and finely oxidative bouquet of bright, ripe fruits intermingled with smoky and saline terroir notes as well as some delicate oak. Round and intense on the palate, with fine, playful and persistently saline acidity, this is a full-bodied, dense and very elegant Riesling with striking intensity and finesse. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in October 2022. 94 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Nikolaihof, Riesling Vom Stein Smaragd, 2019 $79.99 $70.39

Nigl

People |

Martin Nigl & his son Martin Jr.

Focus |

Crystalline and transcendent Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from a cold sliver of the Kremstal.

Country |

Austria

Region |

Kremstal

Village |

Priel

Climate: |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
• Kremstal especially is colder than the Wachau at night thanks to cool air coming down from the north, and the valley’s and surrounding forest. Warmth comes in the form of hot eastern gusts, helping to ripen the grapes and keep disease at bay.
• Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
• Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
• Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
• Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.

Vineyards |

25 ha in Krems, geologically the same as Wachau, with a political border between them.

• Senftenberger Piri: South facing mica-schist, planted to both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Very distinct wines.

• Senftenberger Hochäcker: Separated from the Pellingen vineyard by only a wall. Soils are mica-schist. High elevation, steep terraces, south, southwest facing. Home to incredible Riesling.

• Senftenberger Pellingen: Bedrock of mica-schist with 35-45 year old vines, more steep terraces not quite as high as Hochäcker, perfect for Grüner Veltliner.

• Rehberger Goldberg: Amphibolite soils (metamorphic rock) planted to Riesling. Cooler sight with more elegant wines.

Grape Varieties |

• Grüner Veltliner: 
• A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over. 
• Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area. 
• Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles). 
• Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on. 
• Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.

• Riesling
• The King of White Grapes
• You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
• What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality. 
• The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades. 
• They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. 
• Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.

• Sauvignon Blanc
• Far from its home in the Loire Valley, Sauvignon Blanc has found a foothold in the rolling limestone hills of Styria with a few vineyards in Burgenland and the Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). 
• Globally, consumers have divided this aromatic variety into two distinct styles: Sancerre and New Zealand. 
• But what if I told you, there is more this grape can do? The loud varietal characters are present but are balanced with a clear sense of place, not piercingly green, or passion fruit laden, but delicate and mineral driven.
• Pinot Blanc / Weissburgunder
• The secret weapon Austrian whites. 
• It was brought over with the Cisterian monks in the 10th century and is grown in small pockets in all the wine regions. 
• Similar to Chardonnay, but with softer flavors and acidity. 
• Makes great simple quaffing wines. But grown in the best plots it makes some of the most surprisingly concentrated and long lived wines in the country. 
• It’s not exported often so bottles are hard to find outside of Austria, but not to be missed if you can lay your hands on one.
• The Hiedlers were the first to plant this in Kamptal in 1955.

• Chardonnay 
• Another grape brought over by the Cistercian monks so it’s had a long time to make a home for itself. 
• Grown across the country, it is made in styles that range from light, unoaked, and Chablisienne to big, broad and toasty. 
• There are some beautiful examples, Burgenland, Vienna, Lower Austria and especially the Steiermark.

Farming |

Sustainable

• No herbicides or insecticides
• Cover crops of legumes and herbs
• Avoids copper, which he considers detrimental to his vines’ vitality, and harmful to the soil.

Cellar Work |

Modern - Low Intervention

• Whole cluster pressing, never de-stems
• settles musts by gravity only
• Uses only ambient yeasts
• Almost exclusively in stainless steel
• Racks twice
• Never fines before bottling

About the winery |

A beautiful Kremstal estate at the end of a cool valley, surrounded by steep loess and rocky slopes. Only in its second generation of winemaking, after hundreds of years of vine growing. Father and son, Martin Sr. and Martin Jr. are quickly elevating their reputation around the world. 

They have slowly expanded their holdings over 30 years. Replanting sites that were abandoned, rebuilding terraced walls by hand, and always improving farming and cellar work. They also renovated their 800 year old cellar, a perfect cold, dark environment to produce these incredible wines.

What do the wines taste like?

A tasting at the winery floored us with a kaleidoscopic array of flavors across the line up of intense and concentrated wines. The aged bottles were magical. Martin Jr's recent influence has pushed the wines towards more elegance and freshness with their Kremstal Grüner Veltliner, a perennial staff favorite.

Wines on Offer |

Nigl, Brut de Brut, NV $38.99 $34.31

"CH, PN Zwei – three years on lees, 17 & 18 base April 2023 – this is very grape-y, fruit and welches, not so much autolytic character, but this is probably from the very recent disgorgement. It is a little more on the fruit side and missing a little bit the elegance of both Gobelsburg and BRundlmayer now for the same price. This really reminds me of a wisteria kind of floral element. Very dry. Most of this is sold in the restaurant so they don’t need the Reserve Grosse Reserve kind of appellation system." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Gelber Muskateller Eiswein, 2019 (375ml) $84.99 $74.79

"First vintage that has ever been done. 2019 pretty hot flowering, loose clusters and this is easier for Botrytis, which this variety is always getting. Picked December 13th. This is super, very aromatic and pretty fresh, 120g RS" — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Kremstal DAC, 2022 $44.99 $39.59

"100% from Weinselberg in Krems 45-70 years old, south facing lower altitude. Primary rock area, changing to loess. This is more tropical and carries a bit of fruit sweetness that reads as some RS paired with a mineral kind of core here, more fruit driven, minerality is here on the back half. More concentration than Piri and feels more complete." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Eiswein, 2018 (375ml) $48.99 $43.11

"This has some mature aromas, but salable and very fresh." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Freiheit, 2021 $21.99 $19.35

"There is a very peppery element here that pops in the mid pal and shows this kind of floral character, meadowy. I really like the second half of that wine and the interplay between the concentration of these peppery/floral elements." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Herzstück vom Kirchberg 1 ÖTW Kremstal DAC, 2022 $89.99 $79.19

"This is the slope up to the church. This doesn’t smell richer; the nose is all loess-y, malty goodness. On the Pal it has a bigger and richer fruit component, a little more alc and a bit more viscosity. A little touch of acacia honey clover, more south east exposition, protected from the cold winds, so gets a little bit more alcohol. This is very good. These wines don't have the detail or precision of Alzinger or Brundy, but they have a loveable kind of fruit character."

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Piri Kremstal DAC, 2022 $30.99 $27.27

"Young vines on primary rock Much more concentration with a little more in that kind of gooseberry fruit character. There is more body here in terms of viscosity, but good freshness. A more rustic kind of flavor here than at Alzinger." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Privat Pellingen 1 ÖTW Kremstal DAC, 2022 $77.99 $68.63

"500M down the valley, 30% from the bottom is the Pellingen, more concentration more soil od Hohacker vineyard, Riesling is planned at the top like Heiligenstein and Lamm – this has a very wide and mouth filling kind of fruit, there is that loessy starchiness and the feeling of a hit of minerality, but the texture and riper fruit are at the moment, dominant. Not too much alcohol this year, but lots of concentration. This is a very good edition of this wine." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Riesling Goldberg 1 ÖTW Kremstal DAC, 2022 $89.99 $79.19

"Very aromatic, gooseberry with lots of acidity, mineral, freshness, length and concentration." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Riesling Piri Kremstal DAC, 2022 $48.99 $43.11

"Less ripe, overt, cooler and a bit more green and gooseberry, not pepper/green-green, but a cooler fruit character. Less acidity than 21, making the wine a bit more open, lilac and very floral. 2021 had more concentration and maturity but also higher acidity. This is very fresh and lighter in tone than the 21 vintage of this wine. It feels very floral and bright." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Riesling Privat Hochäcker 1 ÖTW Kremstal DAC, 2022 $98.99 $87.11

"This is deeper, has a little bit of the creaminess and riper character, this is even, driving and linear. I like this, it really doesn’t feel like the wine is overfilled though it is quite BIG for a Riesling here and the volume of fruit sensation feels very loud, but this is incredibly young." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Nigl, Riesling Urgestein Kremstal DAC , 2022 $35.99 $31.67

Nigl, Sekt Rosé, NV $38.99 $34.31

"18-19 base, disgorged April 23 disgorgement. – fresh raspberry Zw, PN, Merlot (50%) which is planted in Kogel, with some gravel. In former times this was GV, but there was too much alcohol. More fruit is dominant this year, more red fruit." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hirsch

People |

Johannes Hirsch

Focus |

The best expressions of the great sites of Kamptal through the lens of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. They reflect Johannes’s energy and vitality, each one better than the last.. 

Country |

Austria

Region |

Kamptal

Village |

Kammern

Climate |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• Kamptal is cooled by air coming down from the north, especially the valley’s and surrounding forest. But warmth comes in the form of hot eastern gusts, helping to ripen the grapes and keep disease at bay.
• There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
• Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
• Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
• Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
• Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.

Vineyards |

31 ha in Zoibing and Kammern. ⅔’s of holdings are Erste Lagen (Grand Cru)

• Heiligenstein: Most famous site in Kamptal and one of the great vineyards of Austria. This terraced hill is an outcropping of 270 million year old unique formation of red sandstone and conglomerate with volcanic permian rocks. Superb Riesling is to be found here. Some plots are up to 60 years old.

• Lamm: Kammerman Village. Southeast of the Heiligenstein vineyard is the Ried Lamm. The deep loess-loam formation is interspersed with volcanic rock with a distinctive silt component. Grüner Veltliner finds ideal conditions on these deep, south-facing loess-loam terraces, to produce a particularly complex and expressive wine.

• Gaisberg: Zoibing. The easternmost end of the Gföhler Gneiss plate that runs under the Kamptal, soils are made up of slatey para-gneiss, mica-schist, and amphibolite (metamorphic rocks formed from intense heat and pressure), marble, and loess. Because of its steep southerly aspect and  exposure to the eastern warming Pannonian winds, it was historically somewhere Rieling would consistently ripen. Today the wines are warm, fruity and pretty.

Grape Varieties |

• Grüner Veltliner: 
• A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over. 
• Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area. 
• Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles). 
• Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on. 
• Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.

• Riesling
• The King of White Grapes
• You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
• What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality. 
• The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades. 
• They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. 
• Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.

Farming |

Biodynamic

• A founding member of Respekt Biodyn, a producer-led certifying group.
• Its basis is a holistic approach to biodynamics for German-speaking wines
• Johannes’s father started organic farming in the 1970s
• Utilizes “soft pruning” a method from Alto Adige that limits the amount of tissue exposed to disease
• Water Buffalo and goats from a famous cheese maker graze the pastures
• Yields between 35-40 hl/ha in the single vineyard wines (relatively love)

Cellar Work |

• Grapes are sorted in the vineyard
• No botrytis is used
• Pressed shortly after picking
• No crushing
• Whole cluster pressing, very long cycle
• Fermentations with ambient yeast
• No temperature control
• “One of the plagues of modern wine is uniformity. Cooling is one of the worst things you can do, in this regard.” says ‘Hannes
• Regional and village wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel
• Erte Lage wine are in a mix of stainless steel and large oak, depending on the vintage
• Warm vintages will see more stainless steel
• Lees aging until the next spring, but nothing by recipe
• Time in bottle is key
• Usually released two years after harvest

About the winery |

One reason that Weingut Hirsch's wines are so good is that Johannes Hirsch did a lot of things first. He was one of the first in Austria to dump Chardonnay and all his red vines to focus solely on Kamptal's great varieties of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. He was one of the first to farm biodynamically (and his father to farm organically). He was first to switch all closures to Stelvin. So he's had a longer time to perfect this style of hyper-artisanal winemaking than virtually anyone else in Austria.

There were hiccups along the way. Not everyone loved the Rieslings from the late aughts that ended up with some residual sugar. But it turns out that this was just what nature wanted to do in those vintages. And since then, Hirsch (and nature) have made nothing but classical, dry, elegant Grüners and Rieslings. He has avoided the trend towards higher octane Austrian wines that we have seen elsewhere. With lower alcohol levels, Hirsch shows the pure, crystalline essence of Austrian Grüners and Rieslings.

What do the wines taste like?

Along with Jurtschitsch, these are the best wines in Kamptal and with Bernhard Ott the best in Austria. I never miss an opportunity to buy these or drink them myself.

They age beautifully, getting better and more expressive year after year. There is a seamless, complete package in every bottle. Grape varieties are of no consequence, merely a vehicle to demonstrate the specificity of different terroirs.

Wines on Offer |

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Hirschvergnügen, 2022 $27.99 $24.63

"This is super clear, good kind of pepperiness and excellent balance between the kind of fruit character and this bright kind of spiciness. Snappy, but not overly green." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Kammern Gaisberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Kammern Gaisberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (1.5L) $131.99 $116.15

“Crystalline rock. Screwcap. Green, herbal aromas of spring lily pads and morning moss, chamomile and freshly cut grass. The palate is bright and supple, with a creamy concentration and sprightly acidity. Lemon and orange. Lingering minerality and spice with a delicate, textured grip. As with all the Hirsch wines, the balance and inner, centring calm lend a mesmerizing quiet. Nuanced complexity, without even the hint of a flex. 17.5+ pts” — Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Kammern Kamptal DAC, 2021 $30.99 $27.27

"This is great, so excellent depth and verve, great movement for a Village wine. Textbook Kamptal GV with excellent snap and acidity."  — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Lamm 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $74.99 $65.9

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Lamm 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (1.5L) $164.99 $145.19

“Loess, Permian sandstone. Screwcap. Quiet, nascent notes of apple and lemon. Sleek, concentrated palate with steady momentum and refined texture. Nothing jarring, merely the momentum of the incoming tide, gaining in strength and power. The alcohol is beautifully balanced, with a fine and filigreed fruitiness. Lingering saline finish. Dry and beautifully deep. 17.5++ pts” — Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Renner 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $59.99 $52.79

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Renner 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (1.5L) $131.99 $116.15

“Loess, crystalline rocks. Screwcap. Ripe fruit, orange and quince, tremendous spice. Creamy palate brimming with plum and apple, and woven with a web of structured spice. Fine, smoky, yeasty touch; balanced, nuanced and long. 17 pts” -- Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com

Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $74.99 $65.99

Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (1.5L) $164.99 $145.19

“Mica schist. Screwcap. Nuanced fruit aromas marked with a soft, herbal spice and a nearly invisible smoke. The taut palate moves in alternating waves of fruit, spring flowers and stone. Captivating citrus elevation and textured grip. Expressive, elegant and far from finished. 17+ pts” — Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com

Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg Library Vintages ['15~'16~'17~'18], NV $74.99 $65.99

“Hirsch's 2015 Kamptal Riesling Heiligenstein 1ÖTW opens with a great nose that blends perfectly ripe white and yellow fruit aromas with the typical stony/flinty Heiligenstein terroir flavor. Full-bodied, rich and piquant on the silky textured palate, the 2015 reveals remarkably fine acidity, great finesse and a very long and salty finish that is also pure and finely aromatic. The 13% alcohol comes along light and vital, and the tension in the finish is full of positive vibrations. A great dry Riesling from one of the world's most spectacular vineyards for Riesling. Highly recommended! 93 pts" — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

"The 2016 Kamptal Riesling Heiligenstein 1ÖTW is super pure, fresh, precise and mineral on the nose, offering flinty flavors of crushed stones and lemon juice. On the palate, this Heiligenstein is enormously finessed, racy-vital and elegant. It shows a certain lightness without losing complexity, intensity or length. The wine is firmly structured, but all seems filigreed and mineral here, with no charming sweetness, no creaminess, no compromises. It is a pure Heiligenstein, and the finish is salty, piquant and very compact. A highly promising dry Riesling and an impressive Heiligenstein. Tasted as a sample in late June 2017. 93-94 pts" — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

"The intensely yellow colored 2017 Zöbing Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW Riesling displays a clear, precise, lovely, pure bouquet of ripe bright fruits and crushed stones. Lush and round on the palate, this is an intense, very elegant and creamy textured Riesling that partly underwent malolactic fermentation. The finish is fresh and even piquant, with stimulating salinity and mineral grip. Still very young. Tasted at Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, September 2018. 92+ pts" — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

"The 2018 Riesling Zöbing Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW is crystalline, pure and fresh as well as intense on the nose that displays ripe white stone fruits. Dense, compact and juicy on the palate, with a silky texture, this is a fresh, vital and sustainable salty Riesling with a grippy, slightly phenolic finish. Tasted two times at Schloss Grafenegg in September 2019. 90 pts" — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Hirsch, Riesling Zöbing Kamptal DAC, 2021 $30.99 $27.27

"This is ripe, a good kind of richer fruit character, but not over ripe at all. I love the style of this wine. It has crunch and saltiness a a pure-fruit character (lemon balm and Mirabelle) that reaches to the Riedenweins." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hirsch, Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $79.99 $70.39

Hirsch, Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 (1.5L) $169.99 $149.59

“Permian sandstone. Screwcap. Rich white-stone-fruit aromas in a refreshing blend of juice and zest. Somewhat more opulent than the graceful Gaisberg, with a stony backbone and finely textured, chiffon-thin layers of juice on the palate. Exceptionally lingering, spicy and long. 17.5+ pts” – Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com

Hiedler

People |

Ludwig Hiedler with sons Ludwig Jr. and Dietmar

Focus |

Authentic Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings which tells their own story and reflects the unique character of its origin—the terroir. Their wines exhibit a natural elegance and expressiveness, unique to this family. 

Country |

Austria

Region |

Kamptal

Village |

Langenlois

Climate |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• Kamptal is cooled by air coming down from the north, especially the valley’s and surrounding forest. But warmth comes in the form of hot eastern gusts, helping to ripen the grapes and keep disease at bay.
• There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
• Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
• Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
• Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
• Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.

Vineyards |

35 ha

• Thal: Langenlois Village. 80 year old vines, the earliest single vineyard Grüner Veltliner. Gentle, terraced slope of  calcareous loess and quartz sand. Earthy and herbal wines.

• Kittmanssberg: Langenlois Village. At 1,035 feet, this is one of Langenloiser's highest vineyards. Their parcels are at the top of the giant amphitheater with calcareous clay, loess and loam. Wines have a ripe yellow fruit, spicy character and velvety minerality.

• Schenkenbichl: Just north of Langenlois. This south facing hill of terraces is cooled by westerly winds. Soils are amphibolite, gneiss, and loess for wines with subtle fruit and smoky salinity.

• Käferberg: The soils are variable, with different underlying bedrock: within a small area one can find crystalline rocks such as amphibolite, gneiss, and mica schist, alternating with much younger clay marl, sands, and rare gravels that were deposited in the ancient Paratethys Sea 16 million years ago. One of the highest elevation sites, up to 1,035 feet, and terraced, it is subject to cooling winds, meaning that even in the hottest years the wines have plenty of salty, mineral freshness. 

• Steinhaus: The steepest vineyard in Langenlois, first documented in 1934. These narrow terraces have a very shallow topsoil with gneiss, Amphibolite, and quartz below which heat up during the day and then slowly give off heat over the night hours. Riesling vines dig deep into the bed rock here and give wines great tension.

• Gaisberg: Zoibing. The easternmost end of the Gföhler Gneiss plate that runs under the Kamptal, soils are made up of slatey para-gneiss, mica-schist, and amphibolite (metamorphic rocks formed from intense heat and pressure), marble, and loess. Because of its steep southerly aspect and  exposure to the eastern warming Pannonian winds, it was historically somewhere Rieling would consistently ripen. Today the wines are warm, fruity and pretty.

• Heiligenstein: Most famous site in Kamptal and one of the great vineyards of Austria. This terraced hill is an outcropping of 270 million year old unique formation of red sandstone and conglomerate with volcanic permian rocks. Superb Riesling is to be found here. Some plots are up to 60 years old.

Grape Varieties |

• Grüner Veltliner: 
• A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over. 
• Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area. 
• Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles). 
• Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on. 
• Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.

• Riesling
• The King of White Grapes
• You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
• What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality. 
• The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades. 
• They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. 
• Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.

• Pinot Blanc / Weissburgunder
• The secret weapon Austrian whites. 
• It was brought over with the Cisterian monks in the 10th century and is grown in small pockets in all the wine regions. 
• Similar to Chardonnay, but with softer flavors and acidity. 
• Makes great simple quaffing wines. But grown in the best plots it makes some of the most surprisingly concentrated and long lived wines in the country. 
• It’s not exported often so bottles are hard to find outside of Austria, but not to be missed if you can lay your hands on one.
• The Hiedlers were the first to plant this in Kamptal in 1955.

• Chardonnay 
• Another grape brought over by the Cistercian monks so it’s had a long time to make a home for itself. 
• Grown across the country, it is made in styles that range from light, unoaked, and Chablisienne to big, broad and toasty. 
• There are some beautiful examples, Burgenland, Vienna, Lower Austria and especially the Steiermark.

Farming |

Regenerative

• Focus on topsoil
• Green vegetation and wild herbs ensure vital soils and a healthy ecosystem for beneficial organisms.
• Organic compost
• Copper is limited to a minimum
• Strict abstinence of herbicides and pesticides has been in effect for several decades
• Only hand harvesting

Cellar Work |

Modern - Low Intervention

• Only local Kamptal yeast
• No enzymes
• No sulfuring of the must
• Fermentation and aging in Stainless steel and acacia
• Extended lees aging
• Selective battonage
• Malolactic fermentation is not blocked, leading to a broad mouthfeel and very stable wines

About the winery |

Established in 1856 and recognized as far back as the 1900s for quality by the Archduchy of Austria, the family continues to strive for excellence.

Now in the hands of Ludwig III and his brother Dietmar, they carry on the family legacy of tending soils first, vines second and wines third. This approach has always meant some of the most unique but powerfully delicious wines in the Kamptal.

Their holdings are nearly unmatched as is their collection of old vines. Chemicals are limited to absolutely necessary fungicides and nothing else. They are some of the first to embrace regenerative farming, where carbon capture and healthy biomes are cultivated without tilling.

In the cellar these are some of the more “natural” wines, although the results are entirely classic. Very  little sulfur is employed and nothing else is added. Because they can go through ML, the need for harsh filtering is limited, but are incredibly stable nonetheless.

What do the wines taste like?

Broad and rich, but not heavy or flat. They have a powerful core and sense of place. Minerality is first and foremost with a slightly softer acidity, balanced by subtle fruit notes.

There is really nothing like them anywhere.

Wines on Offer |

Hiedler, Grüner Veltliner Käferberg Erste Lage, 2021 $59.99 $52.79

"Same vinification as 2020, unfiltered. Dei tonnelier, the wood is supporting the structure of the wine, the wood here is quite transparent and finer kind of support. You feel the wood here in two different parts of the wine, first before the wine dives into the riper fruit character and then in the finish and over time this is creating a link between the two sides of this wine. This you still feel the character of the vintage and the variety. Excellent." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hiedler, Grüner Veltliner Kittmannsberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $41.99 $36.95

“Crystalline rocks, clay marl. Shy, fresh-fruit notes mingle with mint, lemon balm and pepper. The creamy palate gives way to a zesty texture; fruity finish. 16.5 pts” — Paula Sidore, Jancis Robinson.com

Hiedler, Grüner Veltliner Loess Kamptal DAC, 2022 $23.99 $21.11

"This comes from newly joined vineyards where we don’t know what clones were selected. “When we plant we tend to use our own clonal material.” 4 months on the lees. This is very good, more on the greener side, very open and approachable, nice green elements, culinary herbs, sweet sorrel, chervil, more floral iris. There is always a little bit more RS as there were some stuck ferments which were blended on. 11.8% alc. 6 weeks of picking, first pass." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hiedler, Grüner Veltliner Thal Kamptal DAC, 2022 $30.99 $27.27

 "2nd pass, 6 months on the lees, chalky loess soils with sand. A drier loess place, which is good for this vintage. Up to 80 year old vines. Fresher kind of character and feels more crisp and a bit more expansive, honeydew and ripe, but still with this kind of ripe character and again, while it is bright it also has the classic savory flavors that this wine should have, mineral and delicious. Unfiltered, so this is more textured but not heavy. Several parts, takes the lees after ferment to check them, if they smell fruit and good left on the Gross lees until a few weeks before bottling. Racked off very late and then no filtration." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hiedler, Riesling Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $64.99 $57.19

“Sourced from 60-year-old vines, Hiedler's 2021 Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW Riesling shows clear, open, bright and elegant fruit with herbal as well as earthy notes of broken rock. Juicy, intense and dense in the mouth, this is a powerful and firmly structured, still somewhat bitter Heiligenstein that needs some time to develop its full size. It's undoubtedly a great Riesling from the Kamptal. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in Grafenegg in September 2022. 94+ pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Hiedler, Riesling Langenlois Kamptal DAC, 2022 $32.99 $29.03

"This smells very classic just-ripe apricot with the stem and leaves intact, this green thread that goes through the wine. A little bit of tactile and some fruit skin, there is some of the texture here from 6 months on the lees, terraces in the Nw – Steinhaus, Steinmassl, Shcecknbichecl, Ladner – has a lime-y zestiness. 24-36 hrs skin maceration you feel a little bit of phenolic structure in the second half of the wine."  — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines

Hiedler, Riesling Steinhaus 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $48.99 $43.11

"Crystalline rocks. Screwcap. Creamy yellow fruit, gentle spice, and a flinty, wet-stone, spontaneous-fermentation aroma. Animating lemon acidity, even if a bit straightforward on the taut, sweet-sour exchange. Long, zesty finish. 16 pts" — Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com

Hans Reisetbauer

People |

Focus |

Simply put, the world’s finest distillates. A strive for purity of flavor with the best ingredients and proprietary stills.

Country |

Austria

​​

Region |

Weinviertel

Village |

Axberg

Climate |

Cool Continental

• Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
• Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
• Weinvertel gets the full exposure of cold northern gusts from the north sea.
• This is often better farmland than grape growing, making it perfect for Hans.

Crops |

140 ha

• 17,000 Williams pear trees
• 7,000 Apple trees
• Plums
• Other fruit trees
• Wheat
• Barley

Farming |

Biodynamic

• Certified by Repekt Biodyn
• Changed farming after a trip to DRC after tasting with Aubert De Villaine and his best friend Berhanrd Ott 

Cellar Work |

• Fermentation tanks have interfaces which allow them to be operated directly though Hans’ smartphone
• Obtaining complete, exact control of temperature during the entire production process allows the subtleties of each distillate to be fully captured
• Meticulous attention to detail inspired the distillery’s fifth and most recent renovation 
• In 2019, the entire distillery was dismantled and replaced with an energy self-sufficient facility which has been designed with the most technologically advanced stills from Christian Carl. 
• Hans now has forty-eight different points used for adjusting temperature in a single still which enables precise control down to .05 degrees during distillation. 
• Following fermentation, the mash of each of Reisetbauer’s eaux-de-vie is distilled twice and the heads and tails discarded. 
• Only the heart of the distillate is kept as it contains the most prized volatile and aromatic components from the raw material and is responsible for creating distinctive aromas. 
• Eaux-de-vie are rested for at least 3 years in stainless steel
• Diluted with Alpine spring water sourced from Mühlviertel, which has exclusively provided fresh low calcium, low sodium spring water for Reisetbauer for nearly three decades.

About the Distillery |

The greatest distiller of all time. Or at least that is Hans Reisetbauer’s goal. He started in 1990, planting an orchard with the goal of making the best eaux-de-vie (fruit brandy/Schnapps) in the world. In 1994 Christian Carl, a renowned German distillery fabricator, made his first still, designed by Hans. By 1996 he won his first Schnapp’s of the year award.

Since then he’s done everything possible to get better, and better, and better. His still has been redesigned and rebuilt 5 times now, most recently this year. No detail is left to chance from the moment fruit (or veggies) are picked, through fermentation, distillation and aging. Farming because of weather is the only thing up to chance and for this he has a team obsessed with healthy soils and crops.

He’s distilled everything from ginger, to Serbian raspberries (organic, hand picked $7/pound!), to carrots (it takes 300 pounds of carrots for one 375ml bottle of eaux-de-vie). Eventually he started growing wheat and barley to produce gin and whiskey, now winning awards of their own. The real winners though, are not for sale. The best winemakers in the world (Dönnhoff, Roulot, etc.) send over the pomace from their top vineyards to be turned into brandy. As if Oberhäuser Brücke could be more intense? Well it can.

What do the wines taste like?

Perfection. These are distillates intended to uncover the very essence of something. Any flavor he has managed to distill (not everything works, you need a certain amount of sugar) is going to be made MORE in his hands.

If you haven’t tried them, there is a piece of your life missing and you don’t even know it.

Wines on Offer |

Hans Reisetbauer, Apple in Oak Barrel, NV (375ml) $68.99 $60.71

Hans Reisetbauer, Apple in Oak Barrel, NV (1) $340.00 $299.20

Hans Reisetbauer, Apricot Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $77.99 $68.63

Hans Reisetbauer, Apricot Eau de Vie, NV (1) $370.00 $325.60

Hans Reisetbauer, Carrot Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $77.99 $68.63

Hans Reisetbauer, Carrot Eau de Vie, NV (1) $370.00 $325.60

Hans Reisetbauer, Cherry Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $83.99 $73.91

Hans Reisetbauer, Elderberry Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $131.99 $116.15

Hans Reisetbauer, Ginger Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $142.99 $125.83

Hans Reisetbauer, Ginger Eau de Vie, NV (1) $720.00 $633.60

Hans Reisetbauer, Hazelnut, NV (375ml) $76.99 $67.75

Hans Reisetbauer, Plum Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $62.99 $55.43

Hans Reisetbauer, Plum Eau de Vie, NV (1) $240.00 $211.20

Hans Reisetbauer, Raspberry Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $142.99 $125.83

Hans Reisetbauer, Rowanberry Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $127.99 $112.63

Hans Reisetbauer, Rowanberry Eau de Vie, NV (1) $660.00 $580.80

Hans Reisetbauer, Williams Pear Eau de Vie, NV (375ml) $77.99 $68.63

Hans Reisetbauer, Williams Pear Eau de Vie, NV (1) $370.00 $325.60

Hans Reisetbauer, Axberg Vodka, NV $50.99 $44.87

Hans Reisetbauer, Blue Gin, NV $56.99 $50.15

Hans Reisetbauer, Blue Gin in Oak, NV $89.99 $79.19

Hans Reisetbauer, Organic Blue Gin, NV $64.99 $57.19

Hans Reisetbauer, Sloeberry Sloe Gin, NV $58.99 $51.91

Hans Reisetbauer, For Fellows 4X50 Superior Rum, NV $190.00 $167.20

Hans Reisetbauer, For Fellows 4X7 XO Single Vintage Prime Rum, NV (700) $97.99 $86.23

Hans Reisetbauer, Reisetbauer & Son 7yr Whisky, NV $100.99 $88.87

Hans Reisetbauer, Reisetbauer & Son 7yr Whisky [Gift Box], NV $113.99 $100.31

Hans Reisetbauer, Reisetbauer & Son 12yr Whisky, NV $148.99 $131.11

Hans Reisetbauer, Reisetbauer & Son 12yr Whisky [Gift Box], NV $163.99 $144.31

Hans Reisetbauer, Reisetbauer & Son 15yr Whisky, NV $164.99 $145.19

Hans Reisetbauer, Reisetbauer & Son 15yr Whisky [Gift Box], NV $172.99 $152.23

Hanna Glatzer

People |

Hanna Glazter

Focus |

Natural wines from grapes you might not expect in Austria from organically farmed grapes.

Country |

Austria

Region |

Carnuntum

Village |

Göttlesbrunn

Climate |

Vineyards |

• Rosenberg, Haidacker, Rote Erde
• Soil Types: sandy loam, gravel with clay & sand

Grape Varieties |

• Welschriesling
• Weiss Traminer
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Sauvignon

Farming |

Organic

Cellar Work |

Natural

About the winery |

Hannah was on the path to study law, but had an about face and decided that like her family, wine was where her heart was. She’s studying at Geisenheim, the elite wine school of Germany. In the meantime she makes natural wines from the organically farmed grapes of her parents estate.

What do the wines taste like?

These are fun wines, lively, clean, refreshing, and don’t take themselves too seriously. 

Wines on Offer |

Hanna Glatzer, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 $35.99 $31.67

"Juicy, fresh Cabernet with notes of creme de violette and milk chocolate. Light, with red notes. Tannins are diffuse and grainy, but mercifully ripe. Good.'' — JR Thomason, Flatiron Wines

"Smooth and supple tannins that are really stretched out, delish, a light entry Cab that actually does taste like Cab. Love the graphite finish." -- Julia Burke, Flatiron Wines

"Wow, that is great, high acid, fine moderate tannins, a Cab-like-bojo. Yum." -- Clara Dalzell, Flatiron Wines

Hanna Glatzer, Pinot Noir, 2021 $35.99 $31.67

"Smells like Pinot! Some VA, but moderate and not a negative. Dried cherry fruit, with licorice and tar notes in a very 'spätburgunder' way."" — JR Thomason, Flatiron Wines

"I really like the texture of this. Chewy, leathery and a little smoky, I think this goes with the gamay crowd. Nice clean finish. Birria pairing/al pastor tacos" — Julia Burke, Flatiron Wines

"All certified organic. Grandma is the vineyard manager at 75 years old. This is quite good, it was reductive on opening, but is a nice little Pinot. Juicy and earthy. 100% whole bunch fermentation for 1-2 weeks, pressed into used oak, 5th or 6th use."" — Clara Dalzell, Flatiron Wines

Hanna Glatzer, Weiss Traminer, 2021 $32.99 $29.03

Hanna Glatzer, Welschriesling, 2022 $26.99 $23.75

"Nice, cloudy, fun. Clean, yellow and white fruits. Pear, Juicy Fruit. I like this. Good food wine."" — JR Thomason, Flatiron Wines

"Characteristically aromatic and with that Welschriesling sweatiness/musk. Perfumed and potpourri almost like a traminer. Good tandoori chicken pairing." — Julia Burke, Flatiron Wines

"Really fun, great acid, good label and clear bottle with cloudy liquid. Simple in the best possible way." — Clara Dalzell, Flatiron Wines