Schloss Gobelsburg
Schloss Gobelsburg
This Article Contains |
People |
Michael & Eva Moosbrugger
Focus |
Grüner Veltliner & Riesling which shows character, authenticity and the individuality of each site and style
.
Country |
Austria
Region |
Kamptal
Village |
Langenlois
Climate |
Cool Continental
- Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
- Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
- Kamptal is cooled by air coming down from the north, especially the valley’s and surrounding forest. But warmth comes in the form of hot eastern gusts, helping to ripen the grapes and keep disease at bay.
- There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
- Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
- Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
- Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
- Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.
Vineyards |
- Heiligenstein: Most famous site in Kamptal and one of the great vineyards of Austria. This terraced hill is an outcropping of 270 million year old unique formation of red sandstone and conglomerate with volcanic permian rocks. Superb Riesling is to be found here. Some plots are up to 60 years old.
- Gaisberg: Zoibing Village. The easternmost end of the Gföhler Gneiss plate that runs under the Kamptal, soils are made up of slatey para-gneiss, mica-schist, and amphibolite (metamorphic rocks formed from intense heat and pressure). Some of the Riesling terraces are the oldest vineyards in the winery’s possession.
- Kammerner Renner: Deep loess soils with eroded gneiss, mica and amphibolite from the Gaisberg vineyard above.
- Lamm: Kammerman Village. Southeast of the Heiligenstein vineyard is the Ried Lamm. The deep loess-loam formation is interspersed with volcanic rock with a distinctive silt component. Grüner Veltliner finds ideal conditions on these deep, south-facing loess-loam terraces, to produce a particularly complex and expressive wine.
Grape Varieties |
- Grüner Veltliner:
- A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over.
- Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area.
- Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles).
- Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on.
- Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.
- Riesling
- The King of White Grapes
- You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
- What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality.
- The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades.
- They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures.
- Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.
- Zweigelt
- a crossing of Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent
- The most widely planted red grape in Austria
- Capable of making oak aged, opulent wines
- Best suited for early consumption.
- It is almost always violet in color with notes of cherry and raspberry, pepper and pleasingly mouth watering sweet tarts. The crunchy acidity lends way to easily navigated tannins.
- Some carbonic styles have the joie de vivre of Beaujolais.
- Sparkling wines made in a pet-nat style are increasingly popular and as an everyday pizza pairer it’s hard to beat.
- Sankt Laurent
- Long thought to be a relative of Pinot Noir for its similar body and aromatics, Sankt Laurent is now known to be an unrelated and indigenous variety.
- It’s mainly grown in Burgenland and Thermenregion
- Makes for pretty, delicate wines, sometimes oak aged, with soft tannin.
- Never accumulates a lot of sugar, meaning it's always going to be light in body with low alcohol.
- Pinot Noir
- Brought by the same Cistearcian monks with the rest of the Burgundy varieties
- Burgenland and Thermenregion.
- There are beautiful examples especially on limestone soils with careful winemaking
Farming |
Organic
- Practicing since 1958
Cellar Work |
Traditional
- Dynamic Cellar Concept
- Wines are not pumped from one location to another
- They are moved in barrels on wheels from one part of the cellar to another.
- Barrels are all made from oak from Manhartsberg, north of Langenlois
- They believe that the future is wine of individuality and character, rather than uniformity.
- The only way to achieve this is with fewer machines.
- Oldest part of the cellar is from the 11th century
- “Tradition” series of wines produced based off of texts from monks 150 years ago. Very reductive, in wood for long aging.
About the winery |
A Cistercian monastic estate founded in 1171 (!!!), Schloss Gobelsburg is one of the largest holders of local “Grand Cru” terroirs: Heiligenstein, Gaisberg, Lamm, Renner, and Grub. When you mix all that tradition and terroir with top-notch winemaking you get brilliant, age-worthy wines of complexity and depth.
Eva and Michael Moosbrugger were granted the winemaking and viticultural contract in 1996, and with the help and guidance of Michael’s mentor, Willi Bründlmayer, the winery has regained its prestige and is considered to be a leader in quality and innovation.
What do the wines taste like?
Honest clean wines. Lively, with nice fruit but it plays background to the earthier elements. These are wines of serenity and peace. They taste like they are made by patient hands and require an open patient mind. That is not to say they aren’t easy to drink, but there are layers just under the surface if you give them a little extra attention.