Goldatzel
This Article Contains |
People |
Gerd Gross, his wife Andrea, and their son Johannes
Focus |
A cooler-style of fine, elegant fruit and great clarity Rieslings and Pinot Noir.
Country |
Germany
Region |
Rheingau
Village |
Johannisberg
Climate |
Moderate Continental
- Relatively cold winters, hot, medium length, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
- This is a special climate for wine in Germany because of four main factors: Aspect, Elevation, and exposure and the River.
- Historically this was the greatest region for white wine in the world. It is warmer than the Mosel, so vintages were more consistent but Its northerly latitude still put it in the cool continental climate zone. This meant perfectly balanced wines with high acid, but ripe intense fruit concentration and the ability to age for… well…ever.
- A bend in the Rhein river means almost the entire Rheingau hillside faces due south, picking up the maximum amount of sunlight and heat available.
- Its moderate to steep slope also helped push ripeness higher, and being along a very wide river, meant reflection of the sun onto the vines for a boost from below.
- Today, what was once a boon, has helped in its waning reputation. Many winemakers continued to push for ripeness in the warming age of climate change, meaning that wines were over ripe, high in alcohol, with low acidities, were generally unbalanced, and not as ageworthy.
- Top producers, like Georg Breuer, have always sought balance above all else, and are one of a handful of estates making brisk, intense wines, which reflect place, but are not over-wrought or flabby.
- White grapes are the majority but there are some great light reds, like Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that can also ripen well.
- Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
- Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines
- 2022 is an enigma. It was hot and very dry for most of the growing season, but rain and long cold fall ended up giving us wines that taste more like “classic” cool-climate wines than rich, ripe wines.
Vineyards |
12 hectares of vines from Johannisberg, Winkler and Geisenheim in the middle Rheingau. All higher elevation, up to 660 feet, cooler sites.
- Johannisberger Goldatzel: Loam, loess, quartzite, Southeast facing at high elevation for highly mineral, taut wines.
- Johannisberger Vogelsang: Gravel, sandy loam. Very stony soils with not a lot of water retention. Vines are 70 years old and dig deep to survive. The wines are complex but delicate, finessed and pure.
- Johannisberger Hölle: Loam, quartz and some iron rich earth. Steep, stony and lots of mixed soils, not a lot of water access. Fruity, fresh and playful wines.
- Winkeler Hasensprung: Deep loess, loam with chalk, quartz and slate. gentle slope, exposed to cool westerly winds for light, tight wines.
- Geisenheimer Kläuserweg: Loam, marl, chalky clay. Deeper, denser wines with more power.
Grape Varieties |
Riesling
- The King of White Grapes.
- High acid, semi aromatic
- A huge variation in style potential from very light and dry, sparkling to the most unctuously sweet wines on the planet.
- Divisive for its high acidity and sugar retaining capabilities
- Perfect in its dynamic nature, ability to transmit the slightest nuance of terroir and being capable of aging for hundreds of years.
Pinot Noir / Spätburgunder
- German Pinot Noir wines are vinified as dry red wines with complex cherry aroma with subtle hints of smoke and almond, slight tannins, and high acidity, with a long finish.
- Had a poor reputation thanks to high yielding, work-horse, clonal material.
- Now Burgundy clones dominate vineyards for the best producers showcasing this incredible variety's true potential.
Other varieties
Farming |
Sustainable
- Soil health is extremely important
- No insecticides, botryticides, and copper are ever used.
- herbicides are avoided unless absolutely necessary.
- Manure is spread in all the vineyards
- cover crops grow between the vines to protect the healthy humus formed below
- hand harvested
- rigorous selections happen in the vineyards
Cellar Work |
Traditional
- Wine moved by gravity, the most gentle handling
- whole cluster press of grape
- Fermentation in stainless steel or Stückfass, depending on the character of the wine
- No temperature control
- Time on the lees is not an exact science, instead decided by taste and feeling
- Typically bottled on the early side to preserve the freshness of the fruit
About the winery |
A new discovery on this trip to Germany!
This small family winery is striving to do everything right. For centuries the vineyards at the top of the Rheingau were too cold to be given Grand Cru status, but in the age of climate change, the Gross family have a treasure trove of excellent sites on their hands.
They’ve been making wine in this same village since the 1500’s. Today father, wife and son work together in the vineyards, cellar and homie tasting room to craft small production, excellent wines.
If you like wines of class and minerality these are for you.
What do the wines taste like?
These are some of the prettiest, most delicate and elegant wines from the Rheingau. This is thanks to a collection of sites at higher elevations, away from the river, where cool air and stony soils lead to wines of intense minerality and lots of acidity.
These are made in traditional methods, have just enough polish, but a bright shining soul lingers in your glass.