Tement

I am possibly repeating myself in saying that Armin Tement (supported by brother Stefan and his wife Monika as well as his parents Manfred and Heidi) has made Weingut Tement Austria’s number one wine producer. Although it has been one of the country’s finest wine addresses already during the 1990s and 2000s by Armin’s father Manfred, the son has pushed the limits even farther. In terms of size, sophisticated winemaking and the immense range of high-quality wines, I don’t see anybody else producing wine on this level in Austria... —Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

People |

Armin Tement, Monika Tement (Armin’s wife), Stefan Tement (Armin’s brother), Manfred Tement (Armin’s father) and Heidi Tement (Armin’s mother)

Focus |

In pursuit of perfection. This was the first Styrian winery to win international recognition, but the accolades have only pushed them to craft ever more chiseled expressions of place. Decidedly classic in style and flavor, but natural in method.

Country |

Austria

Region |

Styria/Steiermark

 

Subregion |

Sudsteiermark

Climate |

Three competing weather patterns converge in Styria.

• Wet, warm air from the mediterranean in the south. Very high precipitation annually and all the disease pressure to go with it.
• Hot, dry air from across the Pannonian plane to the east. Helps with ripening, concentration and disease pressure.
• Cold breezes from the west and north flow down the alps, ensuring bright acidity and freshness in all the wines. 

Vineyards |

• Zieregg: Arguably the best Grand Cru site in Styria. The Tement family has decided to split this large vineyard into four distinct, named sites to further explore the nuances specific to each. All are at 1,000 feet to 1,350 feet elevation. What is now simply, Zieregg, is south-facing and covered in pure coral limestone. Wines from here are about as perfect as they come, combining elegance, finesse, intensity, concentration, and length, no matter the grape variety. Both the Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon (Chardonnay) seem expensive, but a pittance compared to Grand Cru Burgundy, whose quality they far exceed in most circumstances.

• Zieregg Kår: Pronounced “Koar” which means “cool hill” for its south-west exposure. Soil is marl over coral limestone and the wines here have more tension and a tighter structure, if not quite so much density and concentration.

• Zieregg Kapelle: A plateau at the top of the hill, getting sunshine all day long with heavy clay topsoil. This means richer wines, although not overly so, as they are tempered by the cooling air of the surrounding forest. Keep these for the long haul as they have gobs of concentration for development.

• Zieregg Steilriegel: The oldest family plot, the most complex wines, everything is turned up a notch here. Pure limestone soil and all the structure, acid and minerality that come with it.

• Grassnitzberg Riff: A terraced site in a closed off valley with a south-southeastern exposure 900-1,260 feet high. The soils are sandy-loam with coral limestone for a slightly more open knit fruit, but the very cold nights mean searing acidity and a salty, mineral tang.

• Wielitschberg: Their warmest west facing site with clay over marl and limestone. Traminer, or Gewürtztraminer finds itself perfectly at home here, where it archives both adequate ripeness to showcase the typical perfume, spice and fruit notes but with more freshness and silky texture than most.

• Sulz: Here we find “Opok” the classic Styrian soil of loamy chalk and marl that give the region its distinctive minerality. A warmer site with south, southwestern exposure with an elevation up to 1,470 feet make it well suited for Pinot Blanc and Morillon. Wines from here are built to last and are best with at least 5 years before opening, I’d say give it 10-20 if you can.

• Ottenberg: Another plateau at 990 feet elevation with sandy topsoil over limestone. Home to Welschriesling, normally an innocuous workhorse variety, finds new life with more mineral than fruit and a balanced structure. 

• Sernau König: One of the most unique sites in the line up defined by its soaring elevation, up to 1,500 feet and the Drau river at its base, layering gravel and alluvial soil over millennia. Besides the elevation, the surrounding forest protects it from wind, but also keeps temperatures lower for spine tingling acidity and inimitable minerality. It also lends to a greener-more garrigue focused profile with tarragon, lime pith, pine and mint imbued wines. 

Grape Varieties |

• Sauvignon Blanc. Now the most typical grape of the region, but it was Manfred’s passion for the variety and focus on it and Morillon that helped catapult it's now lofty reputation. The style is unique for this very popular grape. Very old-world and mineral driven, not quite as austere as Sancerre, or fruity, sweet or green as New Zealand, more of the body and richness of Bordeaux,  but without the new oak or blending partner of Semillon. An excellent addition to the repertoire of any lover of crisp, intense, semi-aromatic, white wine.
• Morillon = Chardonnay. The 2nd most planted white grape in the world finds a comfortable second home in Styria. The best are on par with the 1er and Grand Cru white Burgundies, often for a fraction of the price.
• Welschriesling: Not to be confused with Riesling. This is a workhorse grape, capable of high yields and made for easy drinking, simple wines. In the right sites, with old vines and well farmed you can create some mineral driven delicious little bottles.
• Others: Gelber Muskateller, Blaufränkisch, Gewüztraminer, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and Zweigelt.

Farming |

Biodynamic

• Manfred changed from bulk to fine wine production in the 80s, but the typical conventional methods of his time.
• Armin started conversion to organic viticulture in 2005.
• All 80 hectares were certified organic by 2018.
• In 2022 all vineyards are now doubly certified biodynamic by both Demeter and Respekt.
• Everything is hand harvested, a feat with that much acreage on such steep slopes.

Cellar Work | 

“Tement’s own style” - Armin Tement

• Natural, in classic wine’s clothing
• 12-24 hour maceration before pressing
• Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeast
• Non-single vineyard cuvée are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks
• Aged for 6 months on the lees
• Filtered
• Single vineyard bottlings are all fermented and aged in large, neutral oak barrels
• Age for 18-24 months on the lees
• Unfiltered
• Wines see no sulfur until bottling

About the winery |

Manfred Tement was the first of his kind, favoring Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon over Welschriesling. Before he started in 1986 this was an innocuous, bulk wine region, with most wine being consumed by the locals at the charming Heurigen and Budenshank (wine taverns) spread across the beautiful countryside. His commitment to quality took 5 years for anyone to notice, at which point a German wine magazine declared Tement to make the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc. 

That’s a lot of praise to live up to, but the family has not tired from always raising the bar and keeping their much deserved attention. Manfred’s sons Armin and Stefan have taken on the task with gusto. Farming has been a huge priority, not only hand harvesting, but conversion to organics and now biodynamics. Ask any farmer in the Finger Lakes, Bordeaux or Galicia, all very wet regions, about the difficulties or organic farming and most will tell you it's just impossible. Especially on 80 hectares in a remote region rife with super steep slopes. They preserve.

In the winery they’ve pulled everything back. Ripeness levels, skin maceration, new oak, temperature control, filtering and sulfur. Today these are as pure an expression of place over winemaking as one can get. 

Why aren’t they more famous here? My theory is two fold. Austrian wines in general do not get the attention they deserve. This may be a hold over from the 1984 wine scandal (happened in a totally different region), or assumptions of over ripe-styles based on now outdated Parker years, or just a general aversion to German words and bottles. 

The second half is Styrian wine is expensive and their old importers didn’t do them justice in getting the wines in the hands of the right people. These are difficult, remote terrains to work and the thirsty locals could consume everything, if we let them, meaning it's often more economical to sell domestically. So wine from an unknown region starting at $25 and up (prices which don’t seem as crazy today as they did 5 years ago)? It’s a difficult sell and needs the right champions. Bowler & Flatiron are those champions.

What do the wines taste like?

Classic in the best sense of the word. Terroir driven single-vineyard wines are the stars of the show and rife with mineral intensity. While gorgeous on release these are wines that will continue to develop and unfold for years in the cellar. Their diversity in site is rivaled only by Burgundy, Mosel and the Wachau, hence the huge line up of single parcel bottlings, but each is unique and worthy of attention.

But don't miss out on the zippy Kalk & Kreide with your back yard BBQ this summer! This is Styria at its most charming. It is a better value and higher quality than ANY Sancerre at the same price.

Some consider this the world's best Sauvignon Blanc (don't tell Vatan or Vacheron, but it's pretty darn amazing). I’m especially partial to the reductive, limestone-minerality of the Morillon myself.

Tement is the best in the region, one of the very best in Austria, and that puts them in line with the greatest winemakers on earth.