von Winning
von Winning
This Article Contains |
People |
Stephan Attmann - General Manager, Andreas Hütwohl - Deputy General Manager, Export Manager, Kurt Rathgeber - Head Winemaker
Focus |
Rieslings made through a historical lens, in wood, with long aging on the lees, from the greatest collection of Pfalz vineyards. The range is expansive from everyday quaffers, to wines you can forget in your cellar for decades.
Country |
Germany
Region |
Pfalz
Village |
Deidesheim
Climate |
Cool to Moderate Continental
- Cold winters, hot, medium length, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
- This is the warmest region in Germany with more Mediterranean-like temperatures. You can even find fig and olive trees growing among the vines.
- Winters are usually not as cold as they were historically. Summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem, and autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
- Moderate climate wines are relatively high in acid, with lower than average alcohols, medium to light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors along with ripe fruit notes.
- White grapes are the majority but there are some great light reds, like Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that can also ripen well.
- Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
- Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines
- 2022 is an enigma. It was hot and very dry for most of the growing season, but rain and long cold fall ended up giving us wines that taste more like “classic” cool-climate wines than rich, ripe wines.
Vineyards |
40 ha across most of the major villages of the Pfalz -- Haart, Konigsbach, Ruppertsberg, Deidesheim, and Forst.
- Bürgergarten: Haardt, Erste Lage. At the southern end of the Pfalz on a low south-east slope up to the forest line. Sandy loam over sandstone with lots of clay. The lighter, more floral and delicate side of the warmer Haardt.
- Herrenletten: Haardt, Erste Lage. Southern end of Haardt, just north of Bürgergarten. South, south-east exposition with sandy loam over red sandstone, with lots of clay and a high limestone content. An intensely aromatic and flavorful wine. There is plenty of water from natural springs under the vineyard ensuring healthy grapes and boisterous wines in even the driest vintages.
- Haardter Herzog: Haardt, Erste Lage. The southernmost site for von Winning. Steep (for the Pfalz) and southeast facing with sparse top soil of gravel, sandy loam over sandstone. Wines tend to be very complex from white and green fruit to ripe yellow and orange, lots of acidity and elegance and demands a long decant.
- Idig: Königsbach/Neustadt, Erste Gewächs. North of Haardt and one of the newest acquisitions for von Winning and a top site facing due south up to the edge of the forest for a cooling influence. Lots of limestone and clay with sandstone subsoil. Very mineral, high intensity wines, with intense, exotic aromatics, salty, spicy, nutty palate. Christmann’s top wine is from here. V
- Ölberg: Königsbach/Neusadt, Erste Lage. The southernmost site in Konigsbach, between it and Ruppertsberg. East, southeast facing and very hot with lots of limestone, marl and sandstone. Big wines, opulent, complex, spicy.
- Nussbien: Ruppertsberg, Erste Lage. Right below the Reiterpfad with a southeast-east facing slope up that goes right up to the cooling influence of the forest. Loamy sand over red sandstone. Often lighter, salty, green, long, spicy and fresh.
- Reiterpfad: Ruppertsberg, Erste Lage. A very large 86 ha low slope with a southeast exposition. A very warm site due to a sandstone wall surrounding the vineyard. Diverse soils with sand and sandy loam over red sandstone, limestone and loess throughout. Wines tend to be very dense and long lived for an Erste Lage site.
- An Den Achtmorgen: Ruppertsberg Erste Gewächs. Inside the Reiterpfad, this 1 ha site is mostly south facing with high density planting of 6,000 vines/ha and sandstone over limestone. It's a warm site for lots of concentration with excellent structure thanks to the limestone.
- Paradiesgarten: Deidesheim, Erste Lage. Sloping site west of the village, right up against the cooling influences of the forest with an east, south-east exposition. Named in the 50’s by the then owner of von Winning (Weingut Dr. Deinhard) for its perfect location. Soil is very deep loam, sand and loess over sandstone. One of my favorite 1er Crus every year for its lithe, tensile structure and delicate minerality. Always salty and happy.
- Langenmorgen: Deidesheim, Erste Gewächs. A semicircle of a vineyard surrounded by the Paradiesgarten, next to the cooling forest, with a southeastern slope. The site was first mentioned in 1491 and the name refers to the amount of land a man can work with a horse in a day. Top soil is loam with high limestone content over deep loess, red and white sandstone. A lighter, brighter GG.
- Leinhöhle: Deidesheim, Erste Lage. Long felt to be the best GL in the village because of its southern exposition, which meant it was warm enough to ripen grapes nearly every year. Even now with the warmer temperatures it's still favorable, with structure helped along by the plentiful limestone in the soil, along with sandstone. Often juicy and dense with stone fruit and herbs.
- Kieselberg. Deidesheim Erste Gewächs. A plateau right above the village with full sun exposure, with a mix of gravelly, sandy, clay and loam soils with sandstone and weathered limestone. Mentioned first in 1234, the wines are always fully ripe, but tense, with concentration and complexity.
- Grainhübel: Deidesheim, Erste Lage. A strip of a vineyard right behind the von Winning winery, facing south-southeast, with lots of humus topsoil and clay and loam with limestone subsoil. Opulent and juicy wines.
- Kalkofen: Deidesheim, Erste Gewächs. Once a lime kiln and source of limestone bricks, now a warm south facing site with plenty of limestone and marl soils. Wines are super mineral with a Burgundian structure. This is one of my favorite sites in the Pfalz. VW vines are 65 years old and the level of intensity is really turned up a notch.
- Mäushöhle: Deidesheim, Erste Lage. Northwest of the village, and cooled by the forest to the west. One side has lots of loam and sand and the other loess and sand with weathered limestone and sandstone beneath. A source of brighter, lighter wines, notes of green apple and herbs.
- Herrgottsacker: Deidesheim, Erste Lage. A huge vineyard between the village of Deidesheim and Forst, with the forest to the west and Ungehueuer to the east. The most north-facing vineyard in the Pfalz. Once owned by the church this site has a mix of basalt and sandstone under loamy sand. It imbues a perfect mix of the elegance of Deidesheim and the juicy citrus of Forst.
- Ungeheuer: Forst, Erste Gewächs. A basalt laden vineyard, but with complex soil structure including limestone, rubble, sandstone and with dense clay meaning access to water for more nutrition and excellent mineral underpinning to the wines. The south-east slope gives ample sun and being at the foot of the Haardt Mountains, gives cooler airflow and brighter acidity.
- Kirchenstück: Forst, Erste Gewächs. “The Montrachet of the Pfalz”, surrounded by the other GC vineyards. The only site rated with the top score of 65 by the Bavarian vineyard classification of 1828. This is a southeast slope with basalt rock, limestone scree, red sandstone, dense clay and sand giving it minerality and access to enough water even in the hottest of years. A vineyard known for complexity, elegance, brilliance, unmatched power and expression like nowhere else. Wines need decades in the cellar to unfurl.
- Jesuitengarten: Forst, Erste Gewächs. The second best vineyard after Kirchenstück. Eastern facing slope with Basalt and limestone mixed, the best of both worlds!
- Pechstein: Forst, Erste Gewächs. Southeast facing slope with high proportions of black basalt for a flinty intense minerality mixed with limestone from an ancient coral reef for structure and sandstone for good measure.
Grape Varieties |
Riesling
- The King of White Grapes.
- High acid, semi aromatic
- A huge variation in style potential from very light and dry, sparkling to the most unctuously sweet wines on the planet.
- Divisive for its high acidity and sugar retaining capabilities
- Perfect in its dynamic nature, ability to transmit the slightest nuance of terroir and being capable of aging for hundreds of years.
Pinot Noir / Spätburgunder
- German Pinot Noir wines are vinified as dry red wines with complex cherry aroma with subtle hints of smoke and almond, slight tannins, and high acidity, with a long finish.
- Had a poor reputation thanks to high yielding, work-horse, clonal material.
- Now Burgundy clones dominate vineyards for the best producers showcasing this incredible variety's true potential.
Sauvignon Blanc:
- High acid
- Semi aromatic
- Light to medium in body depending on location and oak application
- Originally from France
- Does extremely well in the Pfalz climate on limestone soils.
- Varies in style from Sancerre knock-off or Pavillon Blanc stand-in.
Farming |
Organic / Biodynamic
- Many old vine plots
- Lots of high density planting
Cellar Work |
Old traditional
- Spontaneous fermentation
- Turbid must during fermentation, for lots of phenolics, helps with longevity
- No temperature control
- Aged in 500L and up wooden barrels, mix of new and used
- Some stainless steel for the village, Erste Lage and sweet wines, but usually a mix of vessels
- Erste Lage age a minimum of 1 year on the lees
- GGs for at least 1.5 years
- Top “special bottled” wines at least 2-3 years.
- Only wracked off the full lees before bottling for very reductive wines.
- Very minimal intervention, some sulfur at bottling
About the winery |
The estate of von Winning is old — about 160 years old. And the name von Winning is oldish — Leopold von Winning was a leader in Pfalz’s quality wine movement of the early 1900s. But the estate has only been named for von Winning since 2007, when Achim Niderberger purchased the property (then known as Dr. Deinhard) and hired Stephan Attman to run the show.
A revolution at Deidesheim ensued. Attman transformed farming, adopting organics and many biodynamic techniques. In the winery, out went the shiny steel tanks and in came old-fashioned wooden casks (fuder). Winemaking became intensely pre-modern and minimalist. After a few years of tinkering, von Winning began to produce truly brilliant wines.
Von Winning is now, simply put, an estate that all wine lovers must get to know.
What do the wines taste like?
A huge range is available, really a something-for-everyone type of winery. From the best deal in super dry sekt, to a slurpable off-dry summer Riesling, to a vast exploration of terroir from every major vineyard in the Pfalz.
The intention at the estate is to make wine as it was 100 years ago, with the use of oak, so expect some toasty notes in the GG’s, if you open them young. But even with a bit of spice they are some of the most elegant, intense wines, opulent but always balanced.
The Erte Lage set offers some of the best values in the region, showcasing the wildly diverse possibilities of terroir without the heavy price tag. But whether EL or GG you can really taste the differences: Closer to the forest? It's gonna be lighter and fresher wine. On a plateau; hot and dense. Sandstone soil; get ready for yellow and red peaches with a lot of sunny characteristics. Limestone; Here comes the salt and structure. Let us not forget Basalt; an inimitable flinty character for some of the most delicious and intense Rieslings out there.
And lest we forget to mention them. The Sauvignon Blanc, while not native, have found a worthy home.
Wines on Offer |
von Winning, Chardonnay Royale, 2021 $30.99 $27.27
von Winning, Grauer Burgunder, 2022 $25.99 $22.87
von Winning, Pinot Noir An den Achtmorgen Grosses Gewächs, 2018 $123.99 $109.11
von Winning, Pinot Noir Imperiale, 2021 $73.99 $65.11
von Winning, Pinot Noir Rosé, 2022 $21.99 $19.35
Always a winner from rosé land. Great bright pink color with matching freshness, a bit of texture to give it structure.
von Winning, Pinot Noir Royale, 2021 $41.99 $36.95
The entry Pinot Noir. 10 years ago they pulled out the old German clones of Spätburgunder and replanted with high quality ones from Burgundy. Excellent!!! Even better than I remember from last year. Very balanced cherry fruit, with limestone minerality. 100% destemmed fruit in mixed size and use barrels.
von Winning, Riesling Deidesheimer Trocken, 2021 $30.99 $27.27
“Von Winning's 2021 Deidesheimer Riesling trocken comes from the best sites of Deidesheim and ferments for the most part in large oak barrels. The wine opens with a clear and very elegant bright fruit aroma intertwined with substantial, slightly iodine-inflected soil, herbal and lemony notes. Full-bodied, intense and even slightly creamy on the palate, this is a vivacious, elegant and mouthfilling Riesling with vibrant acidity and a finely grippy, tart and saline finish. 12% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 90 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
von Winning, Riesling Estate Trocken, 2021 $23.99 $21.11
100% stainless steel fermented and aged. Sourced from around Forst and Deidesheim. Crisp, pretty, chalky, flinty, easy to drink, steely, just what I’ve come to expect from this wine.
von Winning, Riesling Forster Trocken, 2022 $28.99 $25.51
From the younger vines of the GG vineyards so they have basalt, a bit of limestone, and a little more sandstone. Sleek, silky, smoky, lemon, white fruit, yellow peach, you can feel the cut of limestone structure. 100% oak fermentation and aging in an 11,000 L barrel.
von Winning, Riesling Herrenletten Erste Lage Trocken, 2021 $39.99 $35.19
“The 2021 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling trocken VDP. Erste Lage offers a deep, pure and concentrated, almost rich but very elegant and even refined bouquet of iodine and ripe fruits. Full-bodied, intense and remarkably concentrated on the palate, this is a dense, saline and refreshingly mineral Riesling from the Letten Keuper soils in Haardt. The finish is long, fresh and complex and reveals fine tannins. This is another excellent, age-worthy 1er cru from Stephan Attmann that deserves the highest interest. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. 93 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
von Winning, Riesling Herrenletten Erste Lage Trocken, 2022 $39.99 $35.19
2021 was the first vintage they made the Herrenletten from a vineyard in Haardt with limestone soils. They always had this vineyard but used it to blend until it was reclassified as an Erste Lage. Limestone structure and precise mineral core, with a fruity, fine yellow peach finish.
von Winning, Riesling Leinhöhle Erste Lage Trocken, 2022 $37.99 $33.43
North of Langenmorgen, below Kieselberg. Mainly fermented and aged in stainless steel and is the first bottled at the end of July. The roots have a hard time digging into the hard sandstone. Smells steely with yellow and red berries, mineral, pixie sticks, core of vibrant acidity surrounded by but fruit layers, chalky, sandy, textural chewy finish.
von Winning, Riesling Mäushöhle Erste Lage Trocken, 2022 $37.99 $33.43
North of the GG’s Kieselbergerg and Kalkofen with some basalt. Mainly fermented and aged in stainless steel plus 1 used 500 L, four to five year old barrel. Spicy, waxy, yellow peaches, blueberries, raspberries, crazy, cola, floral and dry, cotton candy, a bit of potpourri.
von Winning, Riesling Paradiesgarten Erste Lage Trocken, 2021 $37.99 $33.43
😀🩷🩷A special parcel named by Dr. Deinhard because it really does feel like Paradise. It surrounds the GC Langenmorgen, which is right at the base of Hart Mountains. Here the sun sets behind the mountain so it is the first vineyard in the shade, coupled with the surrounding forest, making it the coldest site. 100% Oak fermentation and aging. Always so good! Lemon, lime, tart apple, sour cherry, pithy, salty, silky smooth. Opening up quickly in glass, even more aromatic, delicious, with delicate floral and tropical notes after just a few minutes. (Barrel sample)
von Winning, Riesling Reiterpfad Erste Lage Trocken, 2022 $37.99 $33.43
Under cork. Very complex layers of tropical yellow mango and pineapple, a bit of cotton candy, but seriously structured like a GG. This is a huge vineyard, 80 ha so a lot of diversity to blend in. Hidden right now, a little muted, but very smooth. Fermented and aged in a mix of dopplestück and tonneaux. (Barrel sample)
von Winning, Riesling Sekt Extra Brut, NV $28.99 $25.51
Two years on the lees, always different blend of sites, but always a tart, lime skin, salty margarita, yummy. Best Deal in bubbles.
von Winning, Riesling Ungeheuer Grosses Gewächs, 2021 $79.99 $70.39
“Tasted as a barrel sample in November of this year, von Winning's 2021 Ungeheuer Riesling trocken VDP. Grosse Lage is deep, very fine and clear on the elegant and balanced saline nose that is nothing less than spectacular in its seamless and pure appearance. Round and lush on the palate, with a salty piquancy and a dense, still yeasty texture with very fine tannins, this is a generous and complex Riesling from the famous Forster Ungeheuer that has been appreciated from wine geeks such as Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Otto von Bismarck and Robert M. Parker Jr. 95-96 pts” -- Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
von Winning, Riesling Winnings, 2022 $21.99 $19.35
Fermented and aged in stainless steel, for the US market only. I’m a super fan of this wine. Just yummy A.F. Peach juice, stoney minerality, heady pea flowers, and even more complex than I remember from last year.
von Winning, Rosé Brut, NV $61.99 $54.55
Subtle and salty, this is a light, refreshing traditional-method sparkler with lots of tart cherry fruit. The herbal notes bring the pinot noir flavors extra freshness. -- Wine & Spirits
von Winning, Sauvignon Blanc 500, 2021 $79.99 $70.39
A selection of the best 2 barrels for only 3,000 bottles may. Definitely my favorite, way more elegant, integrated, brighter, like Pavillon Blanc, white Bordeaux or Alfonse Mellot. A super-duper wine.
von Winning, Sauvignon Blanc I, 2021 $39.99 $35.19
100% oak fermented and aged in 500 L, second and third use barrels. Mostly sourced from the cool Paradiesgarten vineyard. Green pyrazine, toasty, concentrated, lively. Give this 7-8 years before you drink it. But buy it now or you will miss out.
von Winning, Sauvignon Blanc II, 2022 $21.99 $19.35
Fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is always a fun, delicious wine. Passion fruit with a dry, powdery minerality, saline, purity a little more New Zealand than I remember.
von Winning, Sauvignon Blanc Lime Rift, 2022 $28.99 $25.51
Jalapeño! Get me some poppers and call it a day. Intense lime, lime, lime and green and acid. Somewhere between the II and the I, only for states. Fermented and aged mostly steel.