Bründlmayer
Bründlmayer
This Article Contains |
People |
Willi Bründlmayer & Andreas Wickhoff MW as General Manager
Focus |
Country |
Austria
Region |
Kamptal
Village |
Langelois
Climate |
Cool Continental
- Defined as very cold winters, hot, short, fairly rainy summers, with long, cool, dry autumns.
- Now: winters are usually not as cold, summers are much hotter, drought is a serious problem 4 or the last 5 years, autumns start later and are often much wetter than they used to be.
- Kamptal is cooled by air coming down from the north, especially the valley’s and surrounding forest. But warmth comes in the form of hot eastern gusts, helping to ripen the grapes and keep disease at bay.
- There is a big diurnal shift (difference between day and night temperatures) starting in the fall. This extends the growing season and gives Austrian wines their signature balance of freshness and ripeness, opulence and grace.
- Cool climate wines are high in acid, low in alcohol, light in body, and often show a lot of mineral flavors rather than fruit.
- Usually white wines are made, but some light reds, like Pinot Noir can also ripen well.
- Warmer vintages: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2015 produce wines with lower acidity, higher alcohols, and richer fruit flavors.
- Cooler vintages: 2021, 2013, 2010, 2008 produce what are now considered “classic” cool-climate wines.
Vineyards |
90 ha. Many vineyards over 50 years old and a plot on the Heiligenstein that was planted in the 1920’s.
- Heiligenstein: Most famous site in Kamptal and one of the great vineyards of Austria. This terraced hill is an outcropping of 270 million year old unique formation of red sandstone and conglomerate with volcanic permian rocks. Superb Riesling is to be found here. Some plots are up to 60 years old.
- Steinmassl: Gneiss and mica slate
- Veltliner finds ideal conditions on these deep, south-facing loess-loam terraces, to produce a particularly complex and expressive wine.
- Langenloiser Berg-Vogelsang: A variety of mica schist called “Gföhler Gneiss” some of the amphibolite stones in the vineyards even contain garnets.
- Käferberg: The soils are variable, with different underlying bedrock: within a small area one can find crystalline rocks such as amphibolite, gneiss, and mica schist, alternating with much younger clay marl, sands, and rare gravels that were deposited in the ancient Paratethys Sea 16 million years ago.
- Lamm: Kammerman Village. Southeast of the Heiligenstein vineyard is the Ried Lamm. The deep loess-loam formation is interspersed with volcanic rock with a distinctive silt component. Grüner Veltliner finds ideal conditions on these deep, south-facing loess-loam terraces, to produce a particularly complex and expressive wine.
Grape Varieties |
- Grüner Veltliner:
- A true Austrian treasure. Grüner is rarely planted outside of its home country, but is revered the world over.
- Mainly grown in the Lower Austrian region (Niederösterreich) with some vines in northernmost Burgenland, it holds 30% of the country’s vineyard area.
- Grüner is dynamic making it known for easily quaffable fresh and fruity wines. But, it just as easily becomes Austria’s most famous long-lived, mineral-laden beauties and some delicious sekt (wine made with bubbles).
- Wines from Grüner Veltliner have continuously taken top marks in blind tastings against Chardonnay from Burgundy and California, displaying a richness and concentration sans the oak barrels its competitors rely on.
- Its flavors range from stone fruit, fresh pear, lemon, green herbs, arugula, and spicy white or black pepper. The best versions can age for decades and develop complex notes of honey, toast, chutney and wax.
- Riesling
- The King of White Grapes
- You’ll find it on the peaks of high, rocky, steep vineyards in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.
- What they lack in vineyard area, these wines make up for in pure, clear, undeniable quality.
- The best examples show the beauty that can come from a perfect marriage: these wines bring the acidity of the Mosel, matched with the density of Alsacian Grand Crus, but are always dry and ready to age for decades.
- They often benefit from 5-10 years of bottle age, but your patience is greatly rewarded with a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures.
- Fruits span the rainbow depending on the site, style and vintage, from green melon, lime and herbs, yellow peaches and lemons, orange zest and marmalade, pink grapefruit, even a touch of cherry on occasion. But the real beauty lies in the non-fruit notes. Especially with age, you can get stony minerality, petrol, honey, toast, salt, marzipan and so much more.
- Pinot Noir
- Brought by the same Cistearcian monks with the rest of the Burgundy varieties
- Burgenland and Thermenregion.
- There are beautiful examples especially on limestone soils with careful winemaking
- Chardonnay
- Another grape brought over by the Cistercian monks so it’s had a long time to make a home for itself.
- Grown across the country, it is made in styles that range from light, unoaked, and Chablisienne to big, broad and toasty.
- There are some beautiful examples, Burgenland, Vienna, Lower Austria and especially the Steiermark.
- 17% other varieties
Farming |
Organic
- No chemical fertilizers or herbicides for 40 years
- Organic since 2015
- certified organic by LACON, an outside, objective, certifying body
- 17 ha are trained in the Lyre method, which Willi helped create.
Cellar Work |
Modern - Low Intervention
- All hand harvested
- Multiple selections through the vineyard are made
- Botrytis is never accepted
- Majority of grapes are not de-stemmed or crushed
- Grapes are handled as minimally as possible
- A tiny portion of grapes are held back, de-stemmed, and macerated for 12 hours; used as ‘seasoning’ during blending to add another dimension and tonality to the final wines.
- Very gentle 1 bar pressing
- Fermented in stainless steel or wood
- Temperature control, but cool, not cold
- Wines age on lees 3-18 months depending on wine
- Sparkling wines can age for years in the cellar
- Hand riddling
- Cellar is gravity fed, to avoid pumping
- Photovoltaics on the roof for electricity
- Geothermal pipes below for heating
About the winery |
Brundlmayer is among the greatest estates in Austria and arguably among the very greatest white-wine producers in the entire world. Quality has gradually increased even further under the watchful eye of Andreas Wickhoff, MW, who took the helm from Willi Bründlmayer in 2014.
The entry level wines are the purest examples of straight-up Kamptal Riesling and Grüner you could hope for. But the fancier bottlings are truly next level, transmitting the multi-faced soil, aspect, elevation and micro climates throughout the Kamptal. The estate is always pushing the boundaries of what one could expect from their vines and with great effect.
What do the wines taste like?
A huge variety of wines and styles to choose from. Light and bright Grüner, Riesling and rosé. Mid-tier lunch wines, a little more serious, a little more structured. The single vineyards are deep, elegant, focused and ageworthy. The reds are old-world, earthy, with supple tannins.
Sparkling wines are the Champagne method and share all their best qualities: creamy, elegant, brioche, lees, freshness and liveliness.
The magic of this estate is how incredibly good the wines are and consistent, considering just how large a production they have. Team members here work together under great leadership. There is something for everyone
Wines on Offer |
Bründlmayer, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Reserve, NV $79.99 $70.39
"April 15 tirage – disgorgement September 2022, 100% Ch from Steinberg, behind Steinmassel, bedrock, some lyra trained vines. A portion in oak, 50% large old casks and 50% stainless, all MLF, 4 . this is a really serious Sparkling wine, this reminds me of Hebrart’s BdB, but drier. This is excellent, stony, but not salty." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Reserve, 2016 $94.99 $83.59
"Moved back price wise, 2016 vintage Reserve, not Grosse Reserve because not all from a single village (Langenlois) two winters in the cellar and Feb 2022 disgorgement. This has some savory elements, but not mushroom-y! Full of character, earthy and a little tighter, leaner in this direction, not as “rustic” as the 2015. This is tasting more complete in the Dollerer glass." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Brut Reserve, NV $48.99 $43.11
Bründlmayer, Brut Reserve, NV (1.5L) $105.99 $93.27
“Bründlmayer's recent disgorgement of the NV Brut Reserve is predominantly based on the fruits of the 2017 harvest and was disgorged in March of this year after 47 months sur lattes. This is a fruit-intense yet fine and purely aromatic assemblage of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Grüner Veltliner that opens intensely fruity as well as toasty and with brioche as well as iodine aromas. Seriously complex! Full-bodied and quite rich on the palate, this is a mouth-filling, intense yet pure and saline-finishing Brut Reserve with structure, finesse and a dry kind of roundness. This is an impressive aperitif that certainly goes well with oysters, tapas, antipasti, shrimp skewers, salmon tartare, fish, poultry... 92 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Bründlmayer, Brut Rosé Reserve, NV $51.99 $45.75
Bründlmayer, Brut Rosé Reserve, NV (375ml) $34.99 $30.79
Bründlmayer, Brut Rosé Reserve, NV (1.5L) $97.99 $86.23
“Disgorged after three years sur lattes in April this year, Bründlmayer's NV Brut Rosé Reserve is an assemblage of separately fermented Blauburgunder (a.k.a. Pinot Noir), Zweigelt and St. Laurent. Predominantly based on the 2018 harvest, the wine has a bright salmon color and opens with a clear and intense yet pure and very elegant bouquet of red fruit aromas with floral as well as whole-grain bread notes. Round and intense on the palate, this is a mouth-filling, rich and fruity but pure, fresh and elegant, well-structured and saline-finishing rosé Brut that doesn't taste as light as the stated alcohol volume of 11.5% might persuade, but it reflects the 2018 vintage on a very high level. Tasted in October 2022. 92 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Bründlmayer, Zweigelt Rosé, 2022 $23.99 $21.11
Bründlmayer, Chardonnay Steinberg, 2021 $73.99 $65.11
"This is crushed before pressing – this is not done for the rest, 4-8hrs maceration in the press. 300L casks, pressed for three hrs from 8:30 on pressed and then settled overnight but then stirred and full turbidity into cask, in oak then 5 months in stainless steel. Seductive and delicious, showing a bit of reduction and the Burgundian vinification and influence of Lamy on Willi almost 40 years ago. As far as this variety goes, this is the finest form I’ve tasted in this country." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Extra Brut Reserve, NV $48.99 $43.11
“Bründlmayer's recent release of the NV Extra Brut Reserve is predominantly based on the 2016 harvest of Blauburgunder (a.k.a. Pinot Noir) and Chardonnay and was disgorged after 50 months on the bottle lees in September last year (2021). The wine has a radiant, bright white-golden color and reveals delicate sur lie (brioche) aromas intermingled with perfectly ripe but fresh white fruit aromas and delicate notes of fruit bread and apple sauce. Textured and very delicate on the palate, this is a dry but perfectly round and elegant Extra Brut that is not only pure but also fleshy and round. A single gram more of dosage would have been too much for me, but this is a gorgeous Sekt from several of the Kamptal's southeast-facing, limestone-dominated sites. The salivating finish reveals a firm and persistent structure that remains in the background and makes this not only a great aperitif but also a sparkling wine that goes well with lighter dishes based on fish, seafood, white meat, cheese or even desserts (if not too sweet). A perfect assemblage! 12% stated alcohol. Tasted in October 2022. 93 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Lamm 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $98.99 $87.11
"30th of April – this has some of the energy and vinification kind of characteristics of the Spigel, but with an even deeper kind of complexity. This is out of control. I knew that this wine would be a stunner in this vintage given the barrel tasting last year, but this has surpassed all expectations. A masterpiece. This is a masterful wine with a wider frame than the Spiegel. With this kind of coiled energy, you can feel the character of the vineyard shining through. Nothing else tastes like Lamm." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner L & T, 2022 $21.99 $19.35
"A bit more aromatic than in the previous tasting in the office, showing a little bit more of the phenolic kind of side here for this wine, but with a light touch of citrus. L&T is always a little bit slimmer and milder than KT, which has more overall intensity." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Langenloiser Alte Reben Kamptal DAC, 2022 $64.99 $57.19
"Bedrock, Wachau style Gruner, but cooler, sharper and a bit more transparent, riper and more fruit direct and really showing this kind of granny smith type ripe acid 2/3 in big casks, this has a touch of really pretty reduction too. Acacia and lemon flower, meadowy, but a bit more sapid and structured than Vogelsang. The structure is coming from the site, not the elevage." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Langenloiser Berg Vogelsang Kamptal DAC, 2022 $35.99 $31.67
"Culinary herbs, sweet, medowy GV character and textbook Vogelsang, and crisp. Always shows that hint of spiciness underlying the ripe citrus of this and 100% stainless." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Langenloiser Käferberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $89.99 $79.19
"This has a lot of extract and is richer, but with good acidity. Burgundian 300 used and a big new 2500 and this is showing a bit more of the sweet fruited character of the oak but also some spiciness, ginger and lime leaf, some movement and should be more put together and complete in the next few months." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Langenloiser Loiserberg 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $37.99 $33.43
“From gneiss soils and vinified in large old-oak vats, the 2021 Grüner Veltliner Ried Loiserberg 1ÖTW was whole-cluster pressed with no destemming and combines aromas of fresh-cut grass with aromas of ripe and elegant seed fruit. Lush and elegant on the palate, this is a textural Veltliner with fine phenolic grip and stimulating salinity on the finish. This very elegant and balanced Veltliner was bottled in July of this year. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. 92 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Terrassen Kamptal DAC, 2022 $30.99 $27.27
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Terrassen Kamptal DAC, 2022 (375ml) $18.99 $16.71
"This is nice and aromatic, fresh and showing good fruit (green pear, crisp mac apple), but not overripe, ripe, fresh. Between 2020 and 2021. Classic and incredibly open at the moment." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Vincent's Spiegel 1 ÖTW Kamptal Reserve DAC, 2021 $84.99 $74.79
"All 300 liters – little more coffee and the more Burgundian vinification direction. This is really exceptional. This is more in the dense area, not malty and feels a bit leaner in the fruit direction. More precise and elegant." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Pinot Noir, 2019 $47.99 $42.23
Bründlmayer, Pinot Noir Reserve, 2019 $79.99 $70.39
“Entirely from the gravelly part of the Käferberg and predominantly based on Dijon clones 777 trained in a lyra system, the 2019 Pinot Noir Reserve offers a noble, pure, fresh and elegant, slightly toasty and even flinty bouquet of dark berry aromas. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, quite rich but elegant and fleshy Pinot Noir with juicy fruit and fine tannins as well as lingering, stimulating mineral acidity. The finish is powerful and intense but still clear, cleansing and provided with clear and crunchy tannins. This is an excellent, very promising Pinot Noir with a very good and sustainable finish. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. To be released in November. 94 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
Bründlmayer, Riesling Alte Reben Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $127.99 $112.63
"This is a bone dry version of this wine, Andreas wanted to see what the Rotfels from Hannes was so good and this was because there was more sugar. This is more tight, linear and intense, this is not generous, but incredibly deep and intense. It is funny to go from the more friendly and open, it is more austere and not “delicious” or “juicy” but it is an undeniable sibling to the Lamm. Steinwand on its own as a barrel sample – this is incredible, not as deep as the AR, pure and more ripe fruit, this is excellent, not as puristic in as the AR, but more fruit, less sugar." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Riesling Langenloiser Steinmassl 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2022 $44.99 $39.59
“Crystalline rocks. Lemon smoke and crushed stone. On the palate, ripe grapefruit and a delicate green and savoury character. Some lemon zest and white flowers. Unyielding acidic backbone straighter than a soldier standing at attention. Long, grippy finish. 17 pts” -- Paula Sidore, Jancis Robinson.com
Bründlmayer, Riesling Terrassen Kamptal DAC, 2022 $30.99 $27.27
"This is very good, a little more structured than 2020 - Steinberg as well as young vines from Heiligenstein – classic, not overripe or with the characteristics of a hot year, more citrus than pit fruits, yellow color spectrum and a bit of leesy character still." — Gabriel Clary, Skurnik Wines
Bründlmayer, Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC, 2021 $56.99 $50.15
“Bründlmayer's 2021 Riesling Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW is the second edition that contains the pickings from the former Heiligenstein Lyra that was bottled alone for many years until the 2019 vintage. So, there are just two selections remaining from the Kamptal's oldest and finest Riesling grand cru, where Bründlmayer holds 69 of the 200 total terraces in the central part of the site. Cultivated on perm sandstone soils, the 2021 Heiligenstein opens with a clear and intense nose full of ripe and elegant Riesling aromas intertwined with weathered stone and slightly flinty and saline aromas. Full-bodied, intense and powerful on the palate, this is a rich yet elegant and persistent Heiligenstein that was entirely vinified in stainless steel. The finish is long, tight and complex, very saline and indicates great aging potential. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in October 2022. 95 pts” — Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate