Stefan Muller
This Estate is now among the finest of the region, and a must address for acid-affine lovers of Saar Riesling. — Mosel Fine Wine Review
This Article Contains |
People |
Stefan Muller
Focus |
Riesling from the Saar, showcasing his excellent holdings through wines that are balanced, ripe, delicate and aromatic.
Country |
Region |
Mosel
Sub Region/Village |
Saar Valley, Village of Konz
Climate |
Cold Continental
The wind whipped Saar Valley has always been one of the most difficult regions in the world to ripen grapes. Global warming has helped with more consistently great vintages, but this is still a place where acid-heads find their happy place.
Vineyards |
- Niedermenniger Herrenberg: Red slate, always adds a little extra spice. Lots of old and un-grafted vines
- Niedermenniger Sonnenberg: Red slate, from iron influence = a nice kick of spice, west, south-west exposition. Vines up to 50 years old.
- Krettnacher Altenberg: Blue slate and the local green slate known as Diabas. Smaller vineyard, cooler site. Very steep
- Krettnacher Euchariusberg: Gray and blue slate with quartz, vines planted in 1944 and 1964. Very steep, owns 5 hectares.
Grape Varieties |
Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc
Farming |
Sustainable
- Pragmatic, will use fungicides to save the vintage
- No herbicides or pesticides
- lots of organic practices
- Hand harvested
- Vineyards full of vegetation, bugs and other critters for a very healthy eco system.
Cellar Work |
Ad Hoc, with low intervention techniques
- Mix of stainless steel vats and old, used barrels
- Wild yeast
- No chaptalization
- Sulfur only at bottling
- No recipe for any wine, each is made on its own merits, depending on what the vintage calls for
About the winery |
Stefan is a pragmatist who believes in preserving the unique qualities of each site. This is best done with careful farming in the vineyard with as few interventions there and the cellar as possible. He’s not beholden to a recipe, but makes each wine on its own.
His collection on old vines in some of the almost-forgotten sections of the Saar are given extra special attention. Riesling lovers will recognize some of the names from Zilliken and Falkenstein who are also devoted to reviving this section of the Saar. Every vintage these wines gain more and more clarity, making them an excellent value.
What do the wines taste like?
The Saar has always been ground zero for the most delicate, mineral driven and laser beam focused wines in the world. The wines at Müller are exquisitely balanced, succulent, wildly aromatic, unapologetically ripe, and true to the Saar.
Wines on Offer |
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Stefan Muller, Riesling Altenberg Kabinett, 2021 $23.99 $21.11 49g/l RS, 11.1g/l acidity. Wait, WHAT??? FOR ACID FREAKS. Krettnacher Altenberg and Euchariusberg are two of the top-ranked sites on the Saar; steep, well-situated, and slatey. But Altenberg is much smaller, cooler, and in addition to its foundational blue-gray slate, contains the exceedingly rare ""green slate"" known as Diabas. This fruity Kabi, picked from young vines (2014) and vinified in steel, teems with fresh aromas of apples and tangerines, and holds its sweetness in a precise structure. A precious and rare example of ultra-filigreed Saar Riesling. "The 2021er Krettnacher Altenberg Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 78° Oechsle in the central part of the vineyard (Klassenbörchen) and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (48 g/l). It offers a beautiful nose made of pear, smoke, citrusy elements, and fine spices. The wine is feather-light yet nicely intense on the palate and leaves a stunning feel of herbs and fine spices in the long and medium intense finish. The aftertaste is featherlight and slightly linear but incredibly vibrant. 2029-2041. 91 pts" -- Mosel Fine Wines
Stefan Muller, Riesling Euchariusberg Auslese, 2022 $39.99 $35.19 Made from specially-selected berries picked from vines planted in 1976 on gray slate. This is a classic expression of Saar Auslese, a rarity in 2022 but absolutely delicious and balanced nonetheless. Whole cluster pressing, spontaneous fermentation, full yeast maturation. 79g/lRS, 10.7g TA, 7% abv.
Stefan Muller, Riesling Euchariusberg Kabinett, 2021 $23.99 $21.11 The 2021er Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 80° Oechsle in the auf der Traif sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (40 g/l). It offers a racy nose driven by citrusy fruit sorbet, pear, smoke, wet stone, and subtly floral elements. The wine is beautifully delineated on the palate and leaves a nicely direct and linear feel in the long finish. A kick of acidity in the aftertaste makes for a vibrating and almost dry-tasting feel. 2029-2041 - Mosel Fine Wines
Stefan Muller, Riesling Euchariusberg Kabinett Alte Reben, 2021 $30.99 $27.27 11.8g acidity, 48g/l RS, 7.5% alc. Stefan Müller holds vineyards in the villages of Niedermennig and Krettnach. This is made from old un-grafted vines in the Krettnacher Euchariusberg, fermented to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. A lovely, lighter new release from here, harvested early for Kabinett (this is usually a Spatlese site), so it combines ripeness with that wonderful Saar ""floaty"" feeling. "The 2021er Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 78° Oechsle on over 50-year-old vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (47 g/l). It offers a beautiful nose made of fine green herbs, a hint of pear, greengage, a subtle dash of whipped cream, floral elements, and lots of smoky flavors. The wine is gorgeously delineated on the palate and leaves a superbly juicy and fruity feel in the long finish. The aftertaste is just a delight of vibrancy, focus, and yet intensity. 2029-2041. 93 pts"" -- Mosel Fine Wines
Stefan Muller, Riesling Euchariusberg Spatlese Alte Reben 1944, 2022 $35.99 $31.67 From very old vines (around 1944, not much planting happening around then!) in a mix of gray and blue slate. The old vines are felt in that extra boost of complexity, refinement and length. Whole cluster pressing, spontaneous fermentation, full yeast maturation. 60g/ RS; 9.8g TA; 8% abv.
Stefan Muller, Riesling Herrenberg Feinherb, 2021 $24.99 $21.99 Kabinett-level ripeness, but fermented drier for delicate feinherb style. From the red slate of Herrenberg, again for a dash of spice. Apple blossoms and lemon curd in a perfectly balanced, dancing, graceful, utterly charming wine that will excel with a huge variety of cuisine. 32g RS 10.8g TA.
Stefan Muller, Riesling Sonnenberg Kabinett Alte Reben, 2021 $25.99 $22.87 One of Müller’s prized sites is a parcel of 50 year-old ("alte reben") vines situated in the western, south-west-facing part of the Niedermenniger Sonnenberg. The iron-rich slate over a base of deep red soil gives it a signature, almost sanguine quality. Year after year it is our favorite Kabinett from Stefan. Buy a case, drink a couple now, then enjoy the rest from your cellar over 20-30 years. 44g/l RS, 11.5g/l TA. Vinified in stainless steel. "The 2021er Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben was made from fruit picked at 80° Oechsle on over 45-year-old vines and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It offers a still rather austere nose made of smoke, green herbs, spices, tea, and wet stone. A firm kick of acidity makes for a citrusy and almost off-dry rather fruity-styled feel on the palate. The wine leaves one with quite some vibrancy and flavors of passion fruit sorbet in the long finish. The aftertaste is all about focus, raciness, length, and mouthwatering flavors. This highly sprung Kabinett will particularly appeal to acid freaks with a soft spot for a dash of creaminess. We would not be surprised if it eventually warrants a higher rating at maturity, as the acidity blends in! 2026-2036. 93+ pts" Mosel Fine Wines
Stefan Muller, Riesling Sonnenberg Spatlese Alte Reben, 2022 $33.99 $29.91 From a mix of old vines planted in 1967 in the south-facing part of the vineyard. Not quite as old as the “1944” but a layered, complex wine that can be cellared for decades. 60g/l RS, 9.5g TA, 8% abc.
Stefan Muller, Riesling Trocken, 2021 $19.99 $17.59 From old vines planted in 1983 at the top of the Niedermenniger Herrenberg, a red slate site, known to throw a dash of spice to the profile. Vinified to dryness in 2/3 stainless steel, 1/3 Fuder barrels. Normally this wine sees partial malolactic fermentation, but thanks to super low pH none occurred in 2021. This vintage is especially energetic, crunchy, and mineral. 8.3g/l RS and 8.5g/l TA. |