Chardonnay
Chardonnay — a FAQ
Before we get practical: full disclosure—probably half the white wine I drink is Chardonnay. And while I love the classics (i.e., from Burgundy and California), my secret source is actually Oregon!
What is Chardonnay, in plain terms?
A white grape born in eastern France. Genetically it’s a natural cross of Pinot and Gouais Blanc. It buds early, ripens mid-season, and is a terrific “translator” of place. That’s why it can be razor-sharp in Chablis, creamy-savory in Meursault, coastal-salty in Sonoma, and earthly serious in Oregon.
What does it taste like—and why does it vary so much?
Cooler sites and earlier picks = lemon, green apple, chalk. Warmer sites and riper picks = pear, peach, baked apple, sometimes pineapple. Winemaking steers the rest:
Stainless/neutral vessels keep it crisp and linear.
- Lees aging/bâtonnage adds a silky, bready texture.
- Oak barrels (especially new) bring toast, spice, and a nutty edge.
- Malolactic fermentation (MLF) converts sharper malic acid to softer lactic acid—think creamier feel.
Why do some bottles taste “buttery”?
That’s diacetyl, a compound produced during MLF. More MLF + certain microbes + time on lees = more butter/cream notes. Less or no MLF keeps things lemony and taut. Oak can layer in vanilla/spice, but “butter” itself is mostly MLF, not wood.
Where does Chardonnay shine?
- Burgundy: Chablis (steely, saline), Côte de Beaune (Puligny = line + lift; Chassagne = citrus + spice; Meursault = nutty, layered).
- Champagne: the backbone of Blanc de Blancs.
- United States: Sonoma Coast/Carneros/Santa Cruz Mountains for cool-climate precision; Oregon’s Willamette Valley (Eola-Amity, Ribbon Ridge, Yamhill-Carlton) for an earthy, intense, acid-driven styles.
- Elsewhere: Margaret River and Yarra Valley (Australia), Hawke’s Bay (NZ), Hemel-en-Aarde (South Africa), Casablanca/Leyda (Chile).
Is Chablis just Chardonnay?
Yes—Chablis is 100% Chardonnay. The style comes from cool climate and Kimmeridgian limestone: think lemon, oyster shell, and a chalky snap. (And a reminder: “Chablis” on a jug wine label outside France isn’t real Chablis.) Chablis is the example I always turn to when I want to explain the impact that a terroir can have on a grape: Chardonnay doesn’t taste like Chablis when grown anywhere else in the world.
Chablis vs. Côte de Beaune—how do they differ?
Chablis: high acid, saline, minimal oak (some producers use large/old wood; it is rarely tasted int he wine).
Côte de Beaune: riper fruit, more lees work and barrel influence, moving from Puligny’s precision to Meursault’s creamy, nutty weight. Producer and vineyard trump the postcard summary, but that’s the gist.
Oak or no oak—what should I expect?
- Unoaked/neutral-aged: citrus, green apple, high refreshment.
- Lightly oaked: a little toast/nut, rounder mid-palate.
- Barrel fermented + new oak: creamier texture, spice, hazelnut; best when fruit concentration and acidity can carry it.
Can Chardonnay age?
Yes—when there’s concentration + acidity + balance.
- Top Chablis & Côte de Beaune: 5–20 years depending on level.
- Serious Oregon/Sonoma/Champagne: often 5–15 years.
For a Reasonable Cellar: even well-made Mâcon-Villages, Chablis, or Oregon AVA bottlings can improve with 2–3 years in a cool fridge.
What are the best food pairings?
Match weight to weight and acid to acid.
- Chablis/unoaked: oysters, crudo, sushi, goat cheese, simple roast fish.
- Midweight, some oak: roast chicken, mushroom sauces, pork chops, creamy pastas.
- Rich/oaky: lobster with butter, roast turkey, nutty cheeses.
At home, my bullseye dish is roast chicken with mushrooms and pan juices. I start with a glass of Chardonnay from Oregon, and follow it with a young Cru Beaujolais. For me, it’s autumnal heaven.
How cold should I serve it? Should I ever decant?
Serve 8–10 °C (46–50 °F) for crisp styles; let serious, structured wines warm to 12–13 °C (54–55 °F) so texture opens. If a wine smells a bit reduced (matchstick), a quick 10–15 minute splash-decant helps.
What’s the deal with Oregon—your “secret source”?
Cool Willamette sites + Dijon clones + long growing seasons = lemon/pear, white flowers, and a savory, saline finish at modest alcohol. Many producers favor neutral oak + lees for texture without heaviness. The result is Chardonnay that’s refreshing on Tuesday and complex on Saturday, which is why I reach for it so often.
Shop Chardonnay in NYC.
Shop Chardonnay in SF.
Jeff Patten is one of the founders of Flatiron Wines. He has been buying and selling wine, and exploring wine country, for over 20 years, and drinking and collecting it for far longer. He is WSET certified (level 2).